Hellion TT Top Mount for 18 GT

[SH!FT]

I reached out to Hellion last week asking them bunch of questions. Waiting on their reply. As far as tuning, I'm leaning towards Lund. Any suggestions ? I'm currently FBO with Lund tune, had no issues with them in the past. I will definitely look into the rear support mods, this was not on my list. Any reason why you changed your mind on the TT kit for your S550?

I have nothing against this TT kit. It seems like an awesome option to make big power. It would have been a fun install. The top mounts look badass with the hood open.

My kit would have been ~650 RWHP at 7 psi depending on fuel quality (91 vs. 93 etc. ) Could have made over 700 with a few more psi, which can be done using the E boost 2 with the touch of a button. I would have done the install and loaded the provided PBD tune myself. Hellion's install instructions look legit, and there's some good DIY threads on this forum.

Then would have likely scheduled an apt. and drove it to an authorized installer that's luckily only 30 minutes away from me. A once-over and dyno tune would have been ~$1000 (well worth the peace of mind).


I found that keeping the questions direct, simple, and focused on completing a build list with options they lay out on the website resulted a response from Hellion within 48hrs. They'll only recommend and support what's been proven and safe.

Here's the kit list that Hellion helped me put together via a few emails in April of 2021. It would have been the 62 mm turbos if my car had the 10 seed auto.

Item	Cost
Hellion 2018+ Mustang GT Eliminator twin turbo top mount tuner system with Precision 55mm billet wheel journal bearing turbos	$8,995.00
Ball bearing upgrade	$1,295.00
Stainless steel exhaust housing upgrade	$300.00
Turbosmart eBoost2 electronic boost controller with 2nd solenoid to control 2nd wastegate	$698.00
Turbo blankets ($90 each x 2)	$180.00
Palm Beach Dyno single ECU calibration, PBD Ucal programmer, and Injector Dynamics ID1050x fuel injectors	$1,674.00
JMS FuelMax fuel pump voltage booster	$489.00
Shipping to a U.S. Address (not for sale or street use in California)	$200.00
Total	$13,831.00

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[cahouston]

It's more of a nice weather car, I don't daily it. When yo say "DR" do you mean Drag Racing kit ? like this one? https://www.lethalperformance.com/b...YBpAlnKbCyK9WF4cACMmPECcmQJMaHRBoC_5EQAvD_BwE

Sorry, I meant drag radial tires in the back. Either drag radials on the street wheels and/or have a dedicated 17x10 set of rear wheels with DRs for play time.

 

[illtal]

If you don't bang tears in your mt82 it should b fine. A 700 whp car is quick on the streets(mine is 704 HP 610 TQ). Most times just mashing the gas for 4-5 seconds gets you deep into go to jail territory. Just make sure you keep the TC on.

I would tell you to look into the DW95s. When I bought mine they was half the cost of id1050x and Lund tuned my car.

 

[HKusp]

Those Magnum XL's are awesome but MAN they are proud of them. An option for you in the furure, as need arises would be to go with a Calimer built MT82. If you aren't beating on the car, that $7k worth of stuff for the Magnum could be about half for a Calimer built unit and that extra money could stay in your bank or be used for other mods. Just my $.02, so take it for what it's worth.

https://www.calimertransmissions.com/mt-82

 

[Sins550]

I'd do the 1300s. Keep the Fore and skip the driveshaft. Especially since you already know you want to make more power in the future.

 

[noshine4mine]

Here is a little tidbit I had to learn the hard way. It would be in your best interest to do a compression test prior to any installs ( assuming a shop is doing the install and tuning it on the Dyno) Write the numbers down. If you have trouble (throwing code/misfires) after the install you can reference back to that and maybe get the installer to make it right. The shop that did mine detonated it on the dyno and broke the #8 piston ring land. The factory pistons are weak as shit and will not take detonation. All these crazy HP number you have heard about in a mustang will be on E85. I spent 12k on a turbo kit and install and had to take the engine out less than 3 months later to get it rebuilt. Upside to all that is I have a stage 3 RPG engine capable of 1500 wheel. The down side, I spent 10k on an engine I never intended on replacing. That being said, any email tune will likely be conservative for safety.

I tried the BAP and it made no difference with a DW400 pump. At 700 -750 wheel, the stock fuel system is reaching its limit. Which is fine in warm to hot weather, but could be a liability in cold weather if you are ripping on it a bunch. Just start thinking about some sort of return style fuel system for safety. This is assuming 93 octane.

I also suggest some Drag radials. You will still be able to smoke the tires. 700 wheel would be like driving on ice with the factory tires and not much better on a higher quality street tire.

Like mentioned already the rear suspension needs more re-enforcement. You dont really hear of the factory drive shaft having problems at these power levels. Wheel hop can break shit, the factory IRS has all kinds of deflection under acceleration. On the street it might not matter, but if you take it to a well prepped drag strip it is going to wheel hop its ass off and the car will do all kinds of nonsense to save it (it will cut power and fall on its face). The wheel hop problem happens at stock power levels too.

Hope some of that helps.

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