jacknifetoaswan
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- Charleston, SC
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- 2016 Race Red Mustang GT Premium Performance Pack
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A couple weeks ago, my trunk started acting flaky, and would periodically not open when using one or all of the dashboard trunk release button, key fob, or exterior release button. Then my rear view camera started to act up, and would intermittently show 'Camera not available' or a simple blue screen. I did some searching and found some information on the wiring harness in the trunk being too short, and the wires becoming severed, but I didn't find a thread that that had actual pictures of the wiring location and the fix.
When you open the trunk, you'll notice a wiring harness snaking out of the felt pad that's on the underside of the decklid. To access it, remove the rubber isolators from the decklid, use a pick to remove the trim around the trunk clasp, then use a trim tool to remove all the plastic rivets from the pad. This will give you better access and more room to work. Directly underneath the rear parcel shelf, aft of the passenger side speaker, you'll find a plastic rivet type device that's got an integrated plastic zip tie. Remove that, then carefully cut the zip tie to get access to the harness. Cut any electrical tape away, then pull back the nylon mesh (shown below) to find the severed wires. You may have to cut or unwrap about six inches of the cloth tape to find the wires.
Once I found the wires, I determined that three of them were completely severed, and one was almost completely cut. I cut the last one the rest of the way, then stripped both sides of the wires and crimped a butt splice connector made for 16-18 gauge wires to each side, and added about a 5" section of 16 gauge wire.
Ideally, you'd want to add heat shrink around the butt connectors, but what I bought wasn't big enough to get around the butt connectors. No bother, I wrapped in electrical tape temporarily, and this weekend, I'll get the right size heat shrink and do it properly.
All told, this took about 40 minutes, including a break to run upstairs to make a vodka/soda. After you've connected the wiring and applied the heat shrink, pull the nylon wire loom covering back down, secure with a little electrical tape, and re-install the interior decklid pad. Test everything out, and you should be good.
JR
When you open the trunk, you'll notice a wiring harness snaking out of the felt pad that's on the underside of the decklid. To access it, remove the rubber isolators from the decklid, use a pick to remove the trim around the trunk clasp, then use a trim tool to remove all the plastic rivets from the pad. This will give you better access and more room to work. Directly underneath the rear parcel shelf, aft of the passenger side speaker, you'll find a plastic rivet type device that's got an integrated plastic zip tie. Remove that, then carefully cut the zip tie to get access to the harness. Cut any electrical tape away, then pull back the nylon mesh (shown below) to find the severed wires. You may have to cut or unwrap about six inches of the cloth tape to find the wires.
Once I found the wires, I determined that three of them were completely severed, and one was almost completely cut. I cut the last one the rest of the way, then stripped both sides of the wires and crimped a butt splice connector made for 16-18 gauge wires to each side, and added about a 5" section of 16 gauge wire.
Ideally, you'd want to add heat shrink around the butt connectors, but what I bought wasn't big enough to get around the butt connectors. No bother, I wrapped in electrical tape temporarily, and this weekend, I'll get the right size heat shrink and do it properly.
All told, this took about 40 minutes, including a break to run upstairs to make a vodka/soda. After you've connected the wiring and applied the heat shrink, pull the nylon wire loom covering back down, secure with a little electrical tape, and re-install the interior decklid pad. Test everything out, and you should be good.
JR
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