Transmission oil change DYI

[JAJ]

Just changed out the trans and diff fluids yesterday in a 2016 Tech pack (i.e., no coolers).

Quick question on capacities - when filling the transmission, I added about 2.75 quarts (Ford capacity says 2.5 quarts), but didn't feel fluid using my pinky in the fill hole. Most instructions I have seen recommend filling until fluid starts coming out of the fill hole. I stopped filling at 2.75 quarts since I didn't want to overfill.

Car was almost level (~ 0.25" delta between front and back using a level under the rocker panel area), so I'm not sure why fluid wasn't weeping out of the fill hole.

Maybe the jacking rail isn't the best datum for determining if the vehicle is level? jack stands were situated at the extreme ends of a BMR full length rail, so I don't think the rail was deflecting.

Any thoughts? Note that the old trans fluid wasn't visibly discolored, but the diff fluid seemed very dirty. I've got ~ 10k miles.

You were within a hair's breadth of getting fluid coming out - it might have taken another 3 or 4 ounces, but it was pretty much full.

The trans fluid comes out looking good on the first change, but if you let it sit in the drain container for a while, you'll find lots of junk settling to the bottom. Some's black, some's shiny and there's quite a bit of both. The diff fluid, on the other hand, comes out looking really, really used. I've changed my diff fluid twice now and it gets better every time.

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[guzie]

Change the year to 2016 and they list it. They just don’t have the 2017 updated with it. Same mechanicals so it will work.

I emailed tech support since they don't have it listed, but they do have a fluid that is Ford Mercon LV compatible:

Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid

I'll follow up again and ask why it isn't listed in the applications for our car.

 

[JAJ]

The one I like the best so far (testing is suspended until spring because the gearbox doesn't warm up during the winter) is ACDelco 10-4014. It's a bit stiff when it's cold (below about 45 degrees F) but it's by far still the smoothest shifting fluid I've tried so far.

Pentosin ATF 1 LV comes in a close second.

I posted this note in another thread back in January this year when I was going through one trans fluid after another to find the one that shifted best. ACDelco 10-4014 was the winner at that time.

Today I drained the ACDelco fluid. It's been doing a fine job through a few thousand miles of highway driving, city driving and three track days. No complaints about it, except, as I noted above, it's a bit stiff when it's cold. I figured it had enough hard usage that it was time to change it out.

There was one fluid that I had on hand that I didn't get a chance to try back in January because the weather closed in and made test driving a challenge. I also didn't see any point in trying something new when I had a fluid in the box that I liked. So, rather than trying it then, I decided to try it when the time came to change the ACDelco fluid.

Today was the day. The untried fluid is Motorcraft DCT fluid - the one used in the MT-82. Lots of people like to complain about it, but when I had a 2011 with an MT82, the DCT fluid performed the best in it as well, after an equally exhaustive round of tests of all the available alternatives.

So today I refilled the gearbox with Motorcraft DCT fluid along with the prescribed dose of XL-18 friction modifier and went for a test drive. I'm pleased to report that from a shift quality standpoint, it performs on par with the ACDelco fluid, or at least it did on the first run of 10 miles today. Like the ACDelco fluid, there's no sense of gear clash, no rattling noises and no gates that block on the first try. The good new is that, because Motorcraft DCT fluid is the same viscosity as Mercon LV, shifting is easy all the way from cold.

I'm doing a track day next week, so we'll see how it works in that environment.

 

[MAV]

I can verify JAJ's review of the AC Delco 10-4014 fluid. I changed mine about three weeks ago, and the transmission is definitely smoother all the way around. Now, in Arkansas this time of year, we are second only to Hell itself in temperatures, so I can't really comment on how it shifts when it's truly cold (transmission temp is never below 88 degrees after cooling all night). However, for these temps and above, there is a noticeable difference in shifting with the new fluid.

 

[Lurker_350]

I'm intrigued by the reduction in notchiness by changing to the AC Delco 10-4014 fluid. Mine is pretty notchy going between 1-2 and 2-3 until the temp gets around 150-180F.

I was initially worried that it would not be appropriate for use in the Tremec, but looking at the specs, it is only a bit more viscous - ~ 38 cSt at 40 C compared to ~30 cSt at 40 C for the Ford ATF.

Thanks for the initial data [MENTION=23125]JAJ[/MENTION] and for the confirmation [MENTION=17943]MAV[/MENTION]. I may have to give it a try.

 

[ddivinia]

I am 515 miles on my GT350R. I am changing the engine, trans and diff fluids.

I read above the diff pump needs to be run. Is there a way to do it without a ford scan tool?

Or what I the recommended tool to purchase?

Thanks,
D.

 

[honeybadger]

I am 515 miles on my GT350R. I am changing the engine, trans and diff fluids.

I read above the diff pump needs to be run. Is there a way to do it without a ford scan tool?

Or what I the recommended tool to purchase?

Thanks,
D.

If you want every single drop out, running the pump will help. But IIRC, only a couple ounces doesn't naturally flow out.

 

[ddivinia]

If you want every single drop out, running the pump will help. But IIRC, only a couple ounces doesn't naturally flow out.

Couple ounces is all I am looking at? That seems like a non issue to me.

Thanks,
D.

 

[JAJ]

Running the diff pump can be done with Forscan, which is cheap and easy. The reason you run the pump is to make sure you don't underfill the differential. When you drain it, some of the oil in the cooler lines drains out - it's replaced by air in the cooler lines. When you fill the diff to the right level after draining it, the air in the cooler lines is still there taking up space that should have oil in it.

To fix that, you run the pump for long enough that all the air is pushed out of the lines and replaced with oil. Then you top up the diff to the "full" level and you're done.

If you don't run the pump, the diff doesn't have as much oil in it as it should.

 

[ddivinia]

Heck, the cables are cheap enough - I'll order one. I am a Mac guy but I have a cheap windows laptop here somewhere I think. Do they have a Mac or iOS version?

On the differential fluid change - I am going to run the car on the lift to make sure the transmission level is good. How long would I need to run it for the differential pump to run?

Thanks for the info.

D.

 

[ddivinia]

What are people using?

How about this one?

https://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-Blue...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Looks like it will work with IOS.

Comments?

D.

 

[JAJ]

Forscan is a Windows product.

The diff pump is on a thermostat so it'll never run if you have the car on a lift. That's why you need Forscan.

 

[honeybadger]

Couple ounces is all I am looking at? That seems like a non issue to me.

Thanks,
D.

Yeah, It's very, very minor. The cooler and pump store very little overall fluid. Whenever I refill my diff, it takes almost the entirely specified amount.

I have tested to make sure the diff is not underfilled and never have a problem. I change fluid 2-3 times a year depending on conditions. While I'll never advise against being cautious, I will say I haven't found any evidence running the diff pump is needed in my particular application.

 

[ddivinia]

Looks like there is FORScan for Windows and then a Lite version.

Here is a comparison.

https://forscan.org/comparsion.html

Not sure if the IOS versions will do it or not. I see there is no outputs.

Anybody know?

I guess worse case I top it off. I can drive it and warm it up. Then check the level again.

D.

 

[Whitest Russian]

FORScan Lite for Android/IOS just provides a read-only display. So if you want do anything besides read values you will need a windows laptop to run the full FORScan program.

Although I do believe you can reset OBD error codes with FORScan Lite.

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