Transmission oil change DYI

[JAJ]

I Believe shop manual say disconnect cooler lines and use low pressure to blow oil out ...

The shop manual does not say to blow oil out with low pressure. Circulation pumps are inherently low pressure devices, and if the air pops a seal in the pump, it's a $300 replacement.

If you want the oil to be a complete change, then just buy an extra two quarts of new oil and change it twice, making sure the cooling pump runs between the changes.

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[THX 138]

I suppose I missed something, but why are people changing out the fluid so soon? Is this just a tinkering to see if something wonderful happens?

See Page 46 of the Shelby Supplement:

BASE WARRANTY
The GT350 carries the same warranty as other Ford Mustang models. This information is covered in its entirety in the warranty information. Warranty service for the GT350 or any Ford Performance vehicle can be obtained at any Ford dealer nationwide. We do not recommend modifying or racing (for competition or time) Ford Performance vehicles, as they are designed
and built to be driven as delivered from the factory. The warranty information discusses vehicle usage and the installation of aftermarket parts and their effect on warranty coverage. In the event the vehicle is intended for track use, and the loss of warranty coverage is not a concern, Ford Performance recommends the car is equipped with the Track Pack. Additionally, perform multi-point inspection and the maintenance outlined in the 150000 mile (240000 kilometer) normal maintenance schedule of the scheduled maintenance before and after track use. See the vehicle service manual for removal and installation procedures. Replace with Genuine Ford and Motorcraft® service parts as needed. These modifications may not necessarily protect your engine from damage in competition conditions. Subjecting your vehicle to competition conditions even with these proposed modifications may render repairs non-reimbursable under the warranty.

Here's the 150,000 mile normal maintenance service:

Change manual transmission fluid. Every 150,000 mi (240,000 km) Change differential fluid. Replace accessory drive belt(s).

And finally, here's what Page 12 of regular Mustang Owner's Manual says:

Using your vehicle on a dedicated road course may result in degraded function and failure of major systems such as the engine, transmission and rear axle due to the overheating of these systems. If you intend to use your vehicle on a dedicated road course, we suggest that you equip your vehicle with racing-type coolers to protect these three systems. In addition, if the vehicle is subjected to dedicated road course use, we recommend the following vehicle durability maintenance:
• Change your axle lubricant and friction modifier after the initial (first) hour of high-speed operation; thereafter change the axle lubricant and friction modifier every 12 hours (under these conditions).
• Change your transmission oil after each event where your vehicle is subjected to individual on-track sessions exceeding 15 minutes.
• Change your engine oil and filter after each event.

Additionally, perform a multi-point inspection on items specified in the scheduled maintenance section of this owner guide before and after dedicated road course use. See General Maintenance Information (page 344). See the vehicle service manual for removal and installation procedures. Replace with Genuine Ford and Motorcraft™ service parts as needed. These actions may not necessarily protect your powertrain from damage in dedicated road course use. Subjecting your vehicle to dedicated road course use even with these proposed precautions may render repairs non-reimbursable under the warranty.

(Credit given to [MENTION=22413]Optimum Performance[/MENTION], who posted the above in this thread: Transmission and differential fluid change/upgrade.)

 

[Tomster]

I suppose I missed something, but why are people changing out the fluid so soon? Is this just a tinkering to see if something wonderful happens?

For me? Track time. 3 days on the track, it needs to be changed.

 

[cking]

You are correct only time is after transmission work to flush the lines. But if I was changing fluid types. I would disconnect both lines and blow it out. How do you know if you have mix of fluids if they are Ok together? Even changing it twice still leaves you with mixed batch.

 

[JAJ]

You are correct only time is after transmission work to flush the lines. But if I was changing fluid types. I would disconnect both lines and blow it out. How do you know if you have mix of fluids if they are Ok together? Even changing it twice still leaves you with mixed batch.

We may be talking about different things. You can blow out the transmission cooler lines with low air pressure without a problem because the pump is inside the transmission, so it's disconnected when the cooler lines are disconnected.

The diff has an external pump that's in line with the cooler. Depending on what kind of pump it is, it might allow the air to push the fluid through or it might not, causing pressure to build up.

 

[cking]

For the diff its says drain, run pump, fill, run pump, top off.

No air needed for diff

 

[torque124]

The one I like the best so far (testing is suspended until spring because the gearbox doesn't warm up during the winter) is ACDelco 10-4014. It's a bit stiff when it's cold (below about 45 degrees F) but it's by far still the smoothest shifting fluid I've tried so far.

Pentosin ATF 1 LV comes in a close second.

If that one is stiff @45 degrees, I wonder how it will be at 0 or negative 10.. my main issue is cold temperatures, when warm she's a beauty.

 

[JAJ]

If that one is stiff @45 degrees, I wonder how it will be at 0 or negative 10.. my main issue is cold temperatures, when warm she's a beauty.

If you're happy with the OEM fluid, then keep using it. It's good stuff, it just wasn't working for me. I wouldn't use the ACDelco in weather that cold - it'll be super-stiff until it warms up.

 

[MAV]

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but [MENTION=23125]JAJ[/MENTION] did you finalize your list with the 10-4014 still at the top? I’m changing mine soon and just wondered what your conclusions were.

 

[JAJ]

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but [MENTION=23125]JAJ[/MENTION] did you finalize your list with the 10-4014 still at the top? I’m changing mine soon and just wondered what your conclusions were.

I'm very happy with the ACDelco 10-4014 that I put in the gearbox last fall. It's still in there and at this point, I don't plan on changing it to see if there's something better. It produces the cleanest shifts.

You have to push the gear lever a little harder until the gear oil temp readout shows about 30C/85F degrees. Above that, it's perfect. Clean, easy shifts every time.

 

[galaxy]

Has anyone used an Amsoil fluid in the tranny?

 

[wrh3]

Has anyone used an Amsoil fluid in the tranny?

I emailed tech support since they don't have it listed, but they do have a fluid that is Ford Mercon LV compatible:

Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid

I'll follow up again and ask why it isn't listed in the applications for our car.

 

[Niz55]

I am going with OEM and doing it 3 times to get everything out. At $4 a quart is a damn good price.

 

[galaxy]

I emailed tech support since they don't have it listed, but they do have a fluid that is Ford Mercon LV compatible:

Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid

I'll follow up again and ask why it isn't listed in the applications for our car.

Saw that one. That happens from time to time with them. It meets the specs...just cause they don’t have the car listed, should be no reason not to use if you wanted to. I’ll most likely give it a try.

 

[Lurker_350]

Just changed out the trans and diff fluids yesterday in a 2016 Tech pack (i.e., no coolers).

Quick question on capacities - when filling the transmission, I added about 2.75 quarts (Ford capacity says 2.5 quarts), but didn't feel fluid using my pinky in the fill hole. Most instructions I have seen recommend filling until fluid starts coming out of the fill hole. I stopped filling at 2.75 quarts since I didn't want to overfill.

Car was almost level (~ 0.25" delta between front and back using a level under the rocker panel area), so I'm not sure why fluid wasn't weeping out of the fill hole.

Maybe the jacking rail isn't the best datum for determining if the vehicle is level? jack stands were situated at the extreme ends of a BMR full length rail, so I don't think the rail was deflecting.

Any thoughts? Note that the old trans fluid wasn't visibly discolored, but the diff fluid seemed very dirty. I've got ~ 10k miles.

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