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Thoughts on build?

zack.whitford

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Hi guys,

I'm getting ready to move into the second phase of my suspension build. The Bullitt is my daily driver so I wanted something that was street friendly whilst being able to maintain a level of aggression and have a competitive edge in the canyons. I do not track the car regularly.

As of now I'm running:

Ford Performance Magneride Handling Pack (springs, swaybars & tune)
Steeda IRS Subframe Braces
Steeda Ultralite G-Tac Brace
Steeda Subframe Alignment Kit
Steeda Wheel Spacers (25f/20r)

I have the next round of parts roughly planned out but I wanted to post it here to see if you all had any observations or suggestions. Is any of this overkill? Not enough? Etc.

Here's where I'm at with the list currently:

Steeda S550 Mustang Camber Plates All (2015-2020)

Steeda S550 Mustang Rear Adjustable Camber Arms (2015-2020 All)

Steeda S550 Mustang Adjustable Swaybar Endlinks (2015-2020)

Steeda S550 Mustang Billet Aluminum Vertical Links with Polyurethane Bushings All (2015-2020)

Steeda Toe Link Kit W/ Knuckle To Toe Link Bearing Assembly Mustang GT/EcoBoost/V6 (2015-2020)

Steeda S550 Mustang Front Control Arms (Lateral and Tension Links w/ Bearings) (2015-2020)

Steeda S550 Mustang Bumpsteer Kit (2015-2020)

Steeda S550 Mustang Rear Lower Control Arm Spherical Bearings (2015-2020 All)

Steeda S550 Mustang Ultra Lite Low-Profile Chassis Jacking Rails Coupe (2015-2020)

Here's the car as it sits now:

ZW_A8991.jpg


ZW_B2256.jpg


ZWLM4460-Edit.jpg


Thanks for looking!
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NightmareMoon

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Do you have the Ford Track Shocks as well?
 
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zack.whitford

zack.whitford

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zack.whitford

zack.whitford

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zack.whitford

zack.whitford

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Can anyone comment on exactly how much camber adjustment can be made without adding parts? Do I have it right that the fronts can't be adjusted at all but there's a small degree of adjustment room in the rears?

I'm thinking I maybe don't need the rear camber arms.
 

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What I think you need to do if you're at all serious about getting a competitive edge through the canyons, with the odd track day thrown in from time to time, is lose the spacers and get some wider wheels and wider tires better suited to that level of performance driving. Start there.

Then decide what specific things you want your car to do better, or not do that it is doing. I doubt you'd find you need any more than half the things on your list until it was about to become a full-on track car. Even then it might not need everything listed.

Waiting for Brian to step in . . .


Norm
 
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zack.whitford

zack.whitford

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What I think you need to do if you're at all serious about getting a competitive edge through the canyons, with the odd track day thrown in from time to time, is lose the spacers and get some wider wheels and wider tires better suited to that level of performance driving. Start there.

Then decide what specific things you want your car to do better, or not do that it is doing. I doubt you'd find you need any more than half the things on your list until it was about to become a full-on track car. Even then it might not need everything listed.

Waiting for Brian to step in . . .


Norm
Thanks so much for your input!

Wider wheels/tires are most certainly on the list of things to come, I'm just still deciding on which wheels to go with. And yeah, this list began with me just shopping for some swaybar endlinks and then I just went a little crazy. What would you get rid of?
 

NightmareMoon

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Can anyone comment on exactly how much camber adjustment can be made without adding parts? Do I have it right that the fronts can't be adjusted at all but there's a small degree of adjustment room in the rears?

I'm thinking I maybe don't need the rear camber arms.
You can get 2 degrees (maybe more) rear camber without additional parts. The parts make the adjustments easier (because changing toe in with the stock parts changes the camber and vice versa and the stock camber adjustment is a slotted hole w/ no markings).
 
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zack.whitford

zack.whitford

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You can get 2 degrees (maybe more) rear camber without additional parts. The parts make the adjustments easier (because changing toe in with the stock parts changes the camber and vice versa and the stock camber adjustment is a slotted hole w/ no markings).
Ah ok that's really good to know. The arm is probably overkill and I'd be better suited with these:

https://www.steeda.com/rear-camber-adjustment-kit.html

Especially since I'll just set it and forget it.
 

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zack.whitford

zack.whitford

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This is great, thank you so much for the advice!
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