THERMOSTAT!!

[VicRattlehead]

There's a guy on the FB group that's sending Keith one of this upgraded EBM thermostats that's supposed to be on the proper side (according to what he's said). I am interested in seeing the feedback on it from him and Adam.

I got it and working on it

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[rvercitypony]

There's a lot of information to be found on the internet, both pro and con. The pro focuses on cooler cylinder head temps for more power and helping to eliminate pre-detonation. The con focuses on not allowing engines to reach higher temps., causing the metals in engines not to expand fast enough to reduce engine wear after start up. Also, current oil being formulated to operate better at around 200 degrees, which is the temp. needed to better get rid of water in engine oil. However, because I live in Global Warming affected Southern Calif., I'm willing to install a low temp. T-stat.

 

[SYK]

try adding a thermostat that opens 10-15 degrees hotter than OEM and let us know how that works out

Never in my post i mentioned about hotter thermostat than OEM. Cylinder head temp was set to perform efficiently and decrease emission from the engineers. What I am saying is that the cooling capacity is driven from the heat exchange coeff from the radiator and the water pump efficiency at the end of the day.

 

[beefcake]

we run them and it works great

we have in stock with free shipping with code
getcool

http://www.teambeefcakeracing.com/2515-160.html

 

[rvercitypony]

we run them and it works great

we have in stock with free shipping with code
becool

http://www.teambeefcakeracing.com/2515-160.html

Your "becool" code didn't work for me.

 

[beefcake]

Your "becool" code didn't work for me.

sorry, we changed the code last month

getcool

is the new code

my apologies

 

[Juben]

What's the recommended procedure for burping the system on these cars?

 

[TheLion]

Anybody running the aftermarket performance Thermostats on here? was looking to bundle it with my FMIC. ? THanks

Heres a link incase some aren't aware of it :
http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/product/LPP2515-160 :clap2::clap2::clap2:

I'm running the LMS 160F thermostat with my stock base model EB radiator. I also have a Mishimoto 2inch performance aluminum radiator in my garage (now) that's going in this weekend along with the BIG MOUTH ram air duct and LMS 93 Stage 3 v7 (currently running their 91).

If you can hold off a bit I can provide feedback as to how the T-stat works with an appropriately sized radiator.

Some things to consider: the stock radiators, weather base model or the slighly improved PP radiator, were designed for heat output on a stock engine. They were not designed to cool modified engines. The PP radiator was designed only to cool a stock engine under more severe sustained WOT conditions typical of a actual track use.

Note that the PP radiator's tend to do better with modded cars which are mostly used for DD and Strip as the reserve cooling capacity intended for track use can help compensate for the higher thermal waste for short periods of time, however I do not believe it would be adequate for track use when running any of the 91,93, e30, e85 or MS109 tunes in actual track use as that reserve thermal capacity is no longer there under the higher output.

The 160F thermostat cannot compensate for the radiator's thermal transfer limits, which is why I am the guinea pig for it's effectiveness since to my knowledge I'm the first one on this forum to upgrade the radiator. With a properly sized radiator the T-stat should be able to regulate temperature to within spec, typically about 18F above it's start point, so around 175~180F flat regardless of high or low ambients, sustained WOT etc.

I do have the 160F thermostat already in my car now, but with the base model radiator which has 20% less cooling capacity than the PP radiator. I can say that my coolant temps have peaked at a max recorded temp of 197.6F, but typically hover around 187~192 during heavy WOT in 90F ambients. I have not seen it go over 200F even once, while my car when it was bone stock would hit up to 215 idling in traffic, typically hover around 195~205 during sustained WOT. So even with the increase in thermal output of my now modified car vs. stock, it's running a bit cooler even with an under sized radiator.

For perspective the Mishimoto lists the following specs for their radiator:
72.5% increase in coolant capacity over the base model radiator
53% increase in coolant capacity over the performance package radiator
22% increase in coolant surface area (tubes) over the stock performance package radiator
50% increase in air surface area (fins) over the stock performance package radiator

 

[TheLion]

What's the recommended procedure for burping the system on these cars?

Open the cap on the pumpkin, then drain the radiator via the plug, change the t-stat. Re-fill via the pumpkin (takes a while to go back in). Make sure the car is up on ramps so air migrates to the front where the pumpkin is.

Once the coolant stops bleeding out of the pumpkin, with the cap still off, start the car and let it idle (monitor temp frequently just in case you get an air pocket or churning at the pump) with the heater on full. I let mine run for about 15 minutes total and just monitored the temp and the level of the pumpkin.

 

[BrewCityBOOST]

the best tstat option out there is the RatStat 170, unlike all the rest its a cold side tstat instead of a hot side, far more effective.

Nearly all our F150 and SHO tuned customers run them, time for the EBM group to realize the benefits as well.

https://www.brewcityboost.com/product/ratstat-170f-thermostat/

 

[Busser48]

the best tstat option out there is the RatStat 170, unlike all the rest its a cold side tstat instead of a hot side, far more effective.

Nearly all our F150 and SHO tuned customers run them, time for the EBM group to realize the benefits as well.

https://www.brewcityboost.com/product/ratstat-170f-thermostat/

See this is what I was asking livernoise to explain. Because I knew u guys were selling this one, wanted to know what they say theirs does that this doesn't

 

[TEXAS HEAT]

the best tstat option out there is the RatStat 170, unlike all the rest its a cold side tstat instead of a hot side, far more effective.

Nearly all our F150 and SHO tuned customers run them, time for the EBM group to realize the benefits as well.

https://www.brewcityboost.com/product/ratstat-170f-thermostat/

I would like to hear specifically why "X" thermostat is better than "Y" thermostat... not just because I said it's better. Please elaborate?

 

[Boosting Stangs]

I would like to hear specifically why "X" thermostat is better than "Y" thermostat... not just because I said it's better. Please elaborate?

The thermostat opens at a lower temperature allowing circulation of the coolant. This helping to keep the engine temperature lower increasing efficiency and possibly allowing more timing to be had. If your tuned this maybe a benefit.

 

[Busser48]

The thermostat opens at a lower temperature allowing circulation of the coolant. This helping to keep the engine temperature lower increasing efficiency and possibly allowing more timing to be had. If your tuned this maybe a benefit.

No he's asking why is the cold side better than the hot side? One company sells one, the other sells the other. Why is x better than y?

 

[Juben]

We're also getting varied info on the opening temperature of the factory thermostat. BCB is saying 190° and Livernois is saying 178°. Which is correct? RockAuto states the factory unit is 190° as well, but at this point, I'm unsure of what's accurate.

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