The Decontamination Thread

[DFB5.0]

Decontamination, a buzz word that has probably become a little overused in recent times. In very basic terms, the word is used to describe the removal of foreign material from the paint, glass, and wheels that is not removed during a normal maintenance wash. These contaminants build up over time, making the paint feel rough and lacking in clarity.

Contamination can range from iron fallout, industrial fallout, acid rain, mineral deposits, bird droppings, tree sap, bug remains, tar, paint overspray, oily road grime and rubber residue. This can vary depending on how and where you use your vehicle. A garage queen may never truly need to be decontaminated. Live in an industrial area or park at a train station, chances are you will be doing this regularly. I live in a country area, but those who live/work in higher population cities, by an airport or in industrial areas, you will typically have more fallout to deal with.

Some contamination can be seen with the naked eye, bugs and tar for example, others can only be felt. Typically, contaminated paint or glass will feel rough and sound “crunchy”. An experienced detailer will feel this with their naked hand, but if you are unsure, the “baggy test” is a good method to start with. Place your hand in a plastic bag, then run over a test spot. The bag will amplify the effects of the contaminants and help you feel and hear what’s on the paint. If it feels smooth, then you likely won’t need to go any further. If the bag feels gritty and/or has an audible scruffy feel, then decontamination is needed.

Removing contamination will enhance the look and feel of the paint, improve the results of a paint correction procedure by eliminating interference between the pad and the paint, and ensure any wax/sealant/coating will correctly bond to the surface, improving its longevity.

There are two ways to remove contamination from vehicle surfaces. Which method you use will depend on the level and type of contamination present, sometimes you will need both.

Chemical Decontamination – this involves the use of specific chemicals to safely soften and then remove contaminants. Iron, water spot, bug, tar and degreaser products exist for this very reason.

Mechanical Decontamination – this involves contact with the surface to agitate or abrade the contaminants. Think clay bars, mitts, towels and sponges. Because of that, you want to do this as little as possible, and depending on the aggression needed/used, you may even need to follow with a polish.

Over the following posts, I will focus on various decontamination scenarios, from simple bug removal right through to dealing with water spots and mineral deposits.

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[DFB5.0]

The ABC Decontamination Process

To start with, the following is what I do prior to a paint correction and/or before applying a new LSP (wax/sealant/coating). The goal is to deliver a clean slate to work with, allowing my polishing pads and compounds to work as well as they can without interference from bonded contamination.

This is not something I do on a regular basis, you certainly don’t want to douse your car with chemicals or rubbing on the paint with a clay bar unless you have to. Each step of the process is geared towards safety and effectiveness, which I will explain as I go. Each step can also be used singularly when dealing with specific or isolated contamination.

The first step involves a chemical to removed embedded iron particles. Products like Carpro IronX, Gyeon Iron and NV Purify turn red or purple as they react and dissolve embedded iron particles, allowing for easy removal when rinsed.

There is some suggestion that these products are not as effective as a traditional clay bar, but my theory here is to remove as much contamination as possible prior to mechanical efforts. Any remaining will be collected at the clay step.

In my case, I apply iron remover to the whole vehicle from dry. The concept here is to not dilute the chemical, allowing it to work as effectively as possible. There is some risk here, ideally this should not dry on the vehicle, so do this out of direct sunlight, or break it up into smaller sections.

If you want, you can increase the effectiveness of an iron remover by using gloved hands, a towel or even a clay mitt to distribute and work the product over the surface. If you are stretched for time, combining the iron remover and clay stages can speed up this whole process, but I prefer to do them in separate steps.

Either way, leave the product to dwell and react, usually 10 minutes. You could then rinse the car, but I have modified my approach recently to foam an alkaline leaning soap over the top of the iron remover. The theory here is to allow the iron remover to continue working, while attacking oiler contamination and old sealants/waxes/drying aids with the alkaline soap. I like Carpro Lift for this, but NV Snow+ or Obsessed Garage Decon soap are also in my rotation.

Allow the soap to dwell for as long as possible, then rinse the car thoroughly.

Next, the contact wash. In this case, I’m going to the other end of the pH scale, using Carpro Descale in both the bucket and foam cannon. The use of an acidic product works to remove unwanted mineral deposits. This won’t always remove visible water spots, but it does work at removing the deposits that caused the etchings in the first place.

I apply the soap to the car via my foam cannon, with a slug also added to my wash pad. Clean the car as usual, then rinse thoroughly.

At this point, inspect the paint again for contamination. If its still feeling rough, its time to get the clay out. If the surface is smooth, then skip this step.

I have covered clay products in the past, but there two ways to attack this. A traditional clay bar is typically more effective, be that a “mild” or “coarse” clay. It is however more likely to mar the paint, so I would only use these for heavily contaminated/neglected surfaces. Synthetic clay mitts/towels/pads are safer to use and don’t require micromanagement. Always break these in on glass before their first use.





In my case, I’m using a clay mitt or pad. While the car is still wet and working in sections, douse the panel with a clay lubricant and agitate the panel with the clay media. (I use Meguiar’s Final Inspection, but rinse-less wash products, quick detailers, soapy water or specific clay lubricants can also be used.)

I once dried the whole car before claying, but that's a waste of time if you are only going to re-saturate the paint during the clay process. My method saves time and allows you to easily remove the lubricant afterward.

Again, I do the whole car in one hit, then follow with a rinse to remove the clay lubricant and any dislodged contamination.

If you are dealing with water spots, now would when I would use a dedicated water-spot remover. Like Descale, these are acid leaning products that remove minerals, just in a more concentrated/focused manner. In this case, work in sections only and rinse as you move around the car. Typically, these are spray/wipe/rinse products. Think Carpro Spotless, Gtechniq W9 or Gyeon Water Spot Remover.

After this step, rinse the whole car as thoroughly as possible. The hard part from here is the drying process, typically you will be dealing with extremely flat water behavior, so use your blower as best you can. I then towel dry, using Carpro Eraser as the “drying aid”, which finishes off the decontamination process.

From here, the car is now ready for polishing and coating.

 

[JustSomeGuy]

@DFB5.0 your expertise and time spent creating these is much appreciated. Well done, as always.

 

[skinnyb]

Good stuff. I plan on doing this to my daily driver soon, I gave it a bath over the weekend and the paint is quite crunchy. It needs a good decon for sure. I've got a clay towel on order to help with the process, all the other chemicals are on hand. I plan on using Purify and lift. I don't have water spots so Descale isn't need at this time although I have on hand if I do. I also have a bottle of Gyeon Can Coat Evo on order as well. I have heard it gives excellent protection although not as long lasting as some more durable options. For a daily that goes 40K a year, that is good enough for me..

Pics after the bath , and I already treated the black trim with Carpro DLux . It is a little beat up from all the road rash but looks pretty good now that it's clean and coated.

 

[cerbomark]

I have used the wheel cleaner with good results, food for thought. remember , marketing is HUGE with these types of products.

 

[dsiggi]

What a great writeup!

 

[DFB5.0]

Overspray Removal

Paint overspray happens to the best of us, be it from being parked in the wrong place at the wrong time, line marking paint or even self-inflicted. The sooner you address overspray the better, and like anything in detailing, it’s always best to start with the least aggressive method first.

Firstly, wash the car as normal, you may just get lucky, at the very least the surface will be prepared for further measures.

Next, try an IPA type prep spray. If the overspray is new or weak, again, you may be lucky.

From there, you would progress to a clay bar or mitt. Usually, a clay treatment will easily solve the problem. However, if the overspray is proving robust, I would favour a traditional clay bar for this job.

I recently had to remove overspray off front bumper and leading edge of the bonnet of my white Ranger. The white overspray was not entirely visible on the paint, so the speckled pattern on the black plastic grill is what tipped it off.

In my case, I washed the car as normal. With the car still wet, I used a clay mitt with the soapy water in my bucket as the lubricant to lightly abrade the affected surfaces.

Inspecting afterwards, the clay mitt easily removed the overspray. I then followed with spray sealant to mitigate the effects of using the clay mitt.

If you still have overspray, you will then need to progress to a more serious solvent. I would start by using Koch Chemie Eulex. There are few different versions of this, but you want the non-matte version -

Koch Chemie EU - Eulex Glue, Tar, Tree Sap, Oil Remover - AutoBuff
Koch-Chemie - Eulex | The Rag Company

Make sure to rinse the treated area afterwards to neutralize the Eulex.

Next, the sledgehammer. This is not a suggestion I hope to use one day, but careful use of Lacquer Thinner can prove very effective. This video shows it in action, but caution is advised. (I know, that guy talks as if he is on speed, but his information is well considered.)




Again, be sure to wipe down with IPA afterwards. You may also need to polish to remove any marring.

As mentioned earlier, using clay or a solvent like these will degrade waxes and sealants, and I wouldn't be surprised if Lacquer Thinner removes a ceramic coating. Again, applying a spray sealant (or similar) will replace some of the protection stripped away by those chemicals.

 

[kilobravo]

First, I believe that you are solely responsible for keeping this forum alive, D..no kidding. It was a different place two or three years ago. Anyway..

..once again, I will add my own sincere thanks for your efforts and willingness to share your incredible wealth of knowledge with all of us who suffer from acute OCD. Hell, I would pay for a SUBSCRIPTION if need be. <smiling>

And, as is often the case, I read something I'd never heard before (or if I have, I of course, forgot about it..) To wit..

Always break these in on glass before their first use.

After thinking about it for a minute, I realized why, or think I did, and it makes perfect sense. Thanks, brother and please, don't leave us. <grin>

 

[DFB5.0]

Tree Sap Removal

As a horticulturalist, I’m supposed to love each and every tree……………..except when my car is covered in sticky little dots. The ultimate solution involves one of these…………………………..

………………..but obviously that is not entirely practical.

If the sap is new, a normal wash usually removes it. Sometimes, a higher pH soap can help the situation. Failing that, try an IPA type product, such as Carpro Eraser or Gyeon Prep. Spray the affected areas with the product, allow to dwell for a short period, then wipe with a towel, making sure to flip often to avoid smearing the sap around.

Stepping up the aggression, solvents like Stoner’s Tarminator, Koch Chemie Eulex and KCx OP Orange Power will sort the situation. All three are potent products that should be used with care, working in small sections out of direct sunlight. Again, flip or rotate your towel often. Rinse heavily after treatment.

Stoner Tarminator 10oz – Stoner Car Care
Stoner Tarminator 296mL | Product | Car Care Products Australia

Koch-Chemie - Eulex | The Rag Company
Koch Chemie EU - Eulex Glue, Tar, Tree Sap, Oil Remover - AutoBuff

Buy Now - Koch Chemie Orange Power OP Adhesive, Tree Resin & Rubber Remover (detailingshed.com.au)

Again, follow up treated sections with a spray sealant to mitigate the effects of the above solvents.

 

[DFB5.0]

First, I believe that you are solely responsible for keeping this forum alive, D..no kidding. It was a different place two or three years ago. Anyway..

..once again, I will add my own sincere thanks for your efforts and willingness to share your incredible wealth of knowledge with all of us who suffer from acute OCD. Hell, I would pay for a SUBSCRIPTION if need be. <smiling>

And, as is often the case, I read something I'd never heard before (or if I have, I of course, forgot about it..) To wit..

After thinking about it for a minute, I realized why, or think I did, and it makes perfect sense. Thanks, brother and please, don't leave us. <grin>

From what I have learned, these synthetic clay mitts, towels, pads and sponges have a film on them on from the manufacturing process. Honing them on glass removes that film prior to use on paint. Because glass is considerably harder than paint, you won't damage or scratch the glass compared to paint. You only need to that once and the procedure doesn't apply to traditional clay bars.

 

[skinnyb]

Overspray Removal

Paint overspray happens to the best of us, be it from being parked in the wrong place at the wrong time, line marking paint or even self-inflicted. The sooner you address overspray the better, and like anything in detailing, it’s always best to start with the least aggressive method first.

Firstly, wash the car as normal, you may just get lucky, at the very least the surface will be prepared for further measures.

Next, try an IPA type prep spray. If the overspray is new or weak, again, you may be lucky.

From there, you would progress to a clay bar or mitt. Usually, a clay treatment will easily solve the problem. However, if the overspray is proving robust, I would favour a traditional clay bar for this job.

I recently had to remove overspray off front bumper and leading edge of the bonnet of my white Ranger. The white overspray was not entirely visible on the paint, so the speckled pattern on the black plastic grill is what tipped it off.

In my case, I washed the car as normal. With the car still wet, I used a clay mitt with the soapy water in my bucket as the lubricant to lightly abrade the affected surfaces.

Inspecting afterwards, the clay mitt easily removed the overspray. I then followed with spray sealant to mitigate the effects of using the clay mitt.

If you still have overspray, you will then need to progress to a more serious solvent. I would start by using Koch Chemie Eulex. There are few different versions of this, but you want the non-matte version -

Koch Chemie EU - Eulex Glue, Tar, Tree Sap, Oil Remover - AutoBuff
Koch-Chemie - Eulex | The Rag Company

Make sure to rinse the treated area afterwards to neutralize the Eulex.

Next, the sledgehammer. This is not a suggestion I hope to use one day, but careful use of Lacquer Thinner can prove very effective. This video shows it in action, but caution is advised. (I know, that guy talks as if he is on speed, but his information is well considered.)




Again, be sure to wipe down with IPA afterwards. You may also need to polish to remove any marring.

As mentioned earlier, using clay or a solvent like these will degrade waxes and sealants, and I wouldn't be surprised if Lacquer Thinner removes a ceramic coating. Again, applying a spray sealant (or similar) will replace some of the protection stripped away by those chemicals.

Man your advice is so valuable, I agree with @kilobravo our forum and lives are far better with your input. You ought to start a YouTube channel. I would pay for a Paetreon subscription . Speaking of YouTube I chuckled when you talked about Luke Wilson talking. I agree he is a fast talker LOL. He is only a couple hours from me in Nashville. I do watch his videos but sparingly . Oh and I finally orders some Eulex, it is my birthday, I had to buy myself something

 

[DFB5.0]

Man your advice is so valuable, I agree with @kilobravo our forum and lives are far better with your input. You ought to start a YouTube channel. I would pay for a Paetreon subscription . Speaking of YouTube I chuckled when you talked about Luke Wilson talking. I agree he is a fast talker LOL. He is only a couple hours from me in Nashville. I do watch his videos but sparingly . Oh and I finally orders some Eulex, it is my birthday, I had to buy myself something

HAPPY BIRTHDAY!

Nothing like buying yourself something on your birthday.

 

[skinnyb]

HAPPY BIRTHDAY!

Nothing like buying yourself something on your birthday.

Yeah tell me about it. I kinda out did myself last year so this year is a little bit of a let down. This was last year's present LOL...

I guess an order from the Rag company and Gyeon US is a nice consolation prize

 

[DFB5.0]

Tar Removal

Every time I talk about or go to remove tar, I think back to a younger DFB and my first car. Somewhere, somehow, the car picked up lines of tar residue on the roof. At the time, I had no idea how to remove this stuff, I was cash strapped and didn’t know where to start. The result was me scratching the hell out of the roof attempting to rub it off. Thankfully, those scratches were removed, but I was scarred for life! These days, dealing with tar is a simple procedure, but no less tedious.

Tar can be removed with both mechanical and chemical removal procedures. While a clay bar can certainly be used, I prefer to use a solvent to soften tar deposits so that they are easily removed with a towel or high-pressure water. If you do choose clay, I would ideally use a traditional clay bar as these are more effective in “catching” the tar deposits.

The moment I used Carpro TarX, I knew that this product would be a permanent addition to my arsenal. TarX is a citrus oil based solvent that soaks into the tar deposit and dissolves them for easy removal. The longer it soaks, the easier the process will be. The other great thing about TarX is that it makes for an excellent adhesive remover.

I would say TarX is my baseline product for tar, it's strong but not too strong. For tar that looks like below, TarX will easily deal with this.



For heavier deposits or tar that has been left for extended periods, it tends to be extremely stubborn to remove. This is where you need more aggression.




Solvents like Stoners Tarminator and KCx Eulex come into the equation. Both are very harsh, so always use these out of direct sunlight, on a cool surface and never allow these to dry on the paint. Work in small sections, especially for Eulex as it evaporates quite quickly. Always flush the area clean afterwards.

(Eulex M pictured, but you want the original version linked below.)

In most cases, all of these products can be used in a touchless manner. As they work, the product will start to dissolve the tar like below....................

Once at that point, I would blast with the pressure washer to remove as much as possible and repeat if necessary. For harder deposits, you may also need to team them with a microfiber towel or even a perforated bug sponge, but I always start with the touchless method first to avoid any unnecessary agitation.

The Rag Company jersey scrubbing "bug scrubber" pad (detailingshed.com.au)
Jersey Bug Scrubber Pad | The Rag Company

 

[DFB5.0]

Bug Removal

Bugs, I hate bugs. And so does your paint! The acids and enzymes in bug deposits will actually etch into the clearcoat, and from what I have seen, the effects can be permanent. So, dealing with bugs in a timely manner is vitally important.

The best defense is having a healthy wax, sealant or coating present on the paint, which provides some additional time to deal with the bugs before eating into the clearcoat, as well as making removal considerably easier. In fact, you may find most bugs can be removed with a simple pressure wash. If not, you then move into chemical and mechanical assistance.

Most quality bug removers are a much of a muchness, to the point where they all smell like the same chemical makeup. These products are also quite alkaline, so they will degrade a wax or sealant. Considering the potential for permanent etchings, I would rather deal with degradation of a wax/sealant than have to contend with more extensive paint correction or repairs.

Having used a few different products in this arena, I tend to default back to Carpro BugOut, but Gtechniq W8, Koch Chemie Insect Remover and Poorboys Bug Squash are good options too.

Allowing these products time to penetrate the bugs will increase their effectiveness. Like any strong chemical, try to work in the shade, on a cool surface and never allow to dry. I typically apply the chemical, allow to soak and then blast with the pressure washer. In most cases, this will remove most, if not all of the bugs. If needed, I have found the Jersey Bug Scrubber from The Rag Company to be an excellent tool in removing more stubborn bug remains.

The Rag Company jersey scrubbing "bug scrubber" pad (detailingshed.com.au)
Jersey Bug Scrubber Pad | The Rag Company

I also like to remove bugs from high-impact areas (the windshield, wing mirrors, front bumper, leading edge of the hood and roof) before cleaning the rest of the car. In the grand scheme of things, it probably doesn’t matter, but I prefer to rid them from the surface and avoid dragging the remains across the rest of the paint.

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