T stat change-drain rad or just tank

[tosha]

So there's basically 2 scenarios:
1) all your cooling is stock and changing just a thermostat will only delay the inevitable state of reaching +200F CHT temp. Please note that your coolant is about 10F below CHT, so this is perfectly normal operating temp.
2) you have extensive cooling mods and you have installed the low temp thermostat as part of it. This is basically what I've done and I am struggling to get CHT above 185-190F when the car is moving, and it just drags the oil temps down on the street. Put a significant load into it and it's just a matter of time until it gets to 230F CHT and at that point thermostat temp doesn't matter because it's wide open anyways.

So, I made it worse for street and I haven't gained much on track. I don't drive on dynos, I drive on real roads and real tracks, and plan to move back to stock one for the 2024 season.

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[tosha]

I can't change my fan settings since it's a Roush tune

I have roush supercharger with roush tune, please see above post. There are other ways to manage the heat, thermostat won't do anything gamechanging for you unless you are ok to switch to a custom tune.

 

[engineermike]

Get pcmtec and change the fan settings yourself.

 

[Robottrainer]

Get pcmtec and change the fan settings yourself.

Any details on this? I haven't seen anything on this.

 

[WildHorse]

Get pcmtec and change the fan settings yourself.

Can do the same with a lot of handhelds.

 

[engineermike]

Any details on this? I haven't seen anything on this.

https://www.pcmtec.com/pcmtec-editor-protuner-edition-usvp1

 

[engineermike]

Can do the same with a lot of handhelds.

Ok but why spend more money on something infinitely less capable?

 

[Robottrainer]

Can do the same with a lot of handhelds.

I thought the Roush tune was locked.

 

[engineermike]

I thought the Roush tune was locked.

Pcmtec can unlock and get you full access to change whatever you want in it.

 

[Rolls]

We have mapped all the Roush tunes that have been sent to us. If you have one that isn't supported send it into support and we should be able to turn it around in 24 hours. This includes the ones with obfuscated tables and scalars.

 

[Robottrainer]

We have mapped all the Roush tunes that have been sent to us. If you have one that isn't supported send it into support and we should be able to turn it around in 24 hours. This includes the ones with obfuscated tables and scalars.

I wouldn't have any idea which tune I have. It's part of the stage 2 set up for 2021. Roush has things pretty locked down. Tune for their system require you to use their software and then you need a ticket from them that allows you to get the tune via internet. They do not provide a file. You would somehow need to get a download from the PCM. Unless your software can read what's on the PCM, I don't think their is a file you can manipulate and upload.

 

[engineermike]

Pcmtec reads the file from the pcm and “decodes” it.

 

[Robottrainer]

Pcmtec reads the file from the pcmtec and “decodes” it.

Can it read directly from the PCM? I know in my case, their is no file that you can read since Roush does everything through the internet.

 

[engineermike]

Can it read directly from the PCM?

Yes, that’s what I meant. Typo on my part.

 

[Cobra Jet]

What exactly are you trying to gain from putting in a lower thermostat? How is the car being used?

As other have said, and I’ve posted the same in quite a few other threads on here, the hype behind dropping in a lower t-stat in a computer controlled car is a total waste of time for ANY vehicle just used on the street - it’s a myth that has a following…and is only making the vendors and aftermarket companies $$$. In the 1930’s up to about 1985ish, yes, totally removing the T-stat or putting in a lower one did make some difference but only because the car was NOT being controlled by a computer - it was still a raw engine with absolutely NO link backs or tie in to ANY computerized box with engineered programming.

Most of those YT vids are popped out there just for the owner to get YT bucks, that’s it. They can tell you they’ll gain 50hp from just opening their car door and 100 Sheeple will believe it….

Listen to those who are telling you it’s not only a waste of $$$ but a waste of time/energy playing with the thermostat.

If you’re having operational cooling issues, then you need to investigate what’s causing those cooling issues. For a street S550, be it a “tuned Roush”, a GT350/350R, GT500, Mach 1, etc - they’re all engineered to run without any cooling issues for everyday use for almost any climate and any driving condition. These cars go through rigorous testing and extreme cold/heat cycling for years before being let loose for public consumption.

IF the car is going to be used extensively for extreme track use and is an extreme high HP S550 with forced induction - then sure other parameters should be and must be changed to meet that high HP application and/or extreme use.

Street driving - no, there’s absolutely no need to tamper with the thermostat.

You want better cooling?
- Go bigger radiator

- Go high flow water pump

- Put a smaller water pump pulley on to spin the pump faster (if a smaller pulley exists). Ford did this with the 93 Cobra and I’m sure they have done the same with other vehicles in later years.

- if you’re in an environment where temps do not go below 60*, change your coolant mix to be more along the lines of 70/30, where 70 is more water. The only purpose of coolant is to offer lubrication, corrosion protection, AND to prevent freezing…. A 70/30 mix is more then good for most applications where the glycol properties are still effective.

- Rad fluid “coolers”, such as Redline’s Water Wetter is a race proven fluid additive that offers cooling properties to the existing coolant. Watch out for other Snake Oil products that claim the same but don’t do anything at all.

- Fan control (as mentioned) - change existing programmed fan on/off temps OR bypass the PCM and add in your own controller to the existing fans that will do the same. The same applies here though, you don’t want the fans coming in too early or staying on too long because that will affect CHT’s and engine operation in a negative manner too.

- Factory electric fan CFM’s not enough? Upgrade to an aftermarket electric fan system where the CFM’s are greater than stock.

- Dispose of the factory hood liner

- Vent the hood; many M6G members have either purchased an aftermarket vented hood or have modified their existing with GT500-like venting systems.

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