T stat change-drain rad or just tank

[Robottrainer]

Anyone here change the t stat without draining the rad? Or just drain the tank?

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[Torched10]

Anyone here change the t stat without draining the rad? Or just drain the tank?

You need to droin rad.collant will drain evyehere including the alternator right below it.havr plenty of rags just in case Theres coolant in hose that doest drain
Should gain 7hp but may need tune to see it
Good luck

 

[LOL WUT]

You need to droin rad.collant will drain evyehere including the alternator right below it.havr plenty of rags just in case Theres coolant in hose that doest drain
Should gain 7hp but may need tune to see it
Good luck

7hp from a t-stat?

 

[ice445]

I just drained the tank when I did mine

 

[WildHorse]

Should gain 7hp

you'll gain zero horsepower.

 

[Torched10]

you'll gain zero horsepower.

The theory is cooler engines
has more hp

 

[WildHorse]

The theory is cooler engines
has more hp

I understand the theory. I also understand the OP never mentioned using a 170 either. Nevertheless, even going from the mustangs stock 180 to a 170 will net ZERO gains. It only delays the engine from reaching peak optimal efficiency.

 

[bankyf]

I understand the theory. I also understand the OP never mentioned using a 170 either. Nevertheless, even going from the mustangs stock 180 to a 170 will net ZERO gains. It only delays the engine from reaching peak optimal efficiency.

 

[tosha]

I am planning to go back to stock tstat for exactly that reason:

It only delays the engine from reaching peak optimal efficiency.

 

[ice445]

I am planning to go back to stock tstat for exactly that reason:

For what it's worth the supplier for the thermostats changed like a year or two ago. The new version has a plastic bypass instead of a brass one and seems to work better. The brass one would get scratched up in its bore and stick sometimes in certain cases.

Basically, just order a new one instead of reusing your old one.

 

[Robottrainer]

For what it's worth the supplier for the thermostats changed like a year or two ago. The new version has a plastic bypass instead of a brass one and seems to work better. The brass one would get scratched up in its bore and stick sometimes in certain cases.

Basically, just order a new one instead of reusing your old one.

Thanks for the reply. I believe the stock thermostat opens at 190 or 195 degrees. Yes, the 170 is not optimal without adjusting the fan set points, however, it will never get bellow 180 to 185 with the stock stat on the highway. Without a fan change it should drop 180 when moving. As for HP, who knows but the rule of thumb is hot engine oil, cool coolant.

 

[Torched10]

Interesting video
Seems very ok objective

 

[ice445]

Thanks for the reply. I believe the stock thermostat opens at 190 or 195 degrees. Yes, the 170 is not optimal without adjusting the fan set points, however, it will never get bellow 180 to 185 with the stock stat on the highway. Without a fan change it should drop 180 when moving. As for HP, who knows but the rule of thumb is hot engine oil, cool coolant.

I rarely hit above 190 while moving with the oem stat. But you're right. They're all progressive, and the set temp is when it starts to open. After that it's down to the cooling systems ability to radiate the heat.

Peak timing can be achieved just under 200 degrees, so it's not super critical to get much lower than that. But of course running cooler gives you a bit more time before you hit the threshold, but meh. Juice doesn't seem worth the squeeze.

 

[chuckhammer]

I rarely hit above 190 while moving with the oem stat. But you're right. They're all progressive, and the set temp is when it starts to open. After that it's down to the cooling systems ability to radiate the heat.

Peak timing can be achieved just under 200 degrees, so it's not super critical to get much lower than that. But of course running cooler gives you a bit more time before you hit the threshold, but meh. Juice doesn't seem worth the squeeze.

I installed a Riesche 170° stat and noticed it was difficult to get CHTs to reach 185-190° so I switched back to the OEM 180°. Also went to 65/35 water/antifreeze plus some Rislone Hyper Cool and lower fan settings. CHTs now sit between 185° and 205°, even on the hottest days while sitting in traffic after a pull. That puts the calculated ECTs around 175-180° on the low end and 195-200° on the top end.

Since CHT is directly measured and ECT is calculated, does the PCM look at CHT for timing changes?

 

[Robottrainer]

I installed a Riesche 170° stat and noticed it was difficult to get CHTs to reach 185-190° so I switched back to the OEM 180°. Also went to 65/35 water/antifreeze plus some Rislone Hyper Cool and lower fan settings. CHTs now sit between 185° and 205°, even on the hottest days while sitting in traffic after a pull. That puts the calculated ECTs around 175-180° on the low end and 195-200° on the top end.

Since CHT is directly measured and ECT is calculated, does the PCM look at CHT for timing changes?

I can't change my fan settings since it's a Roush tune

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