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SYNC 3 swap, It's all in here

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coolemoff1

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My job tends to be same way and summers coming in Hvac field lol
I’m gathering parts to get going with the base to sync 3 swap
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Sherrodmustang

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I think I have it sorted out and got the Navigation working correctly, thanks to a member on the forum it was easy fix and something I messed up in the inbuilt data on the APIM.

I am still getting 4 DTC codes, two in the APIM and two in the FMIC. Not throwing a check engine light at this time, but they do show up in ForScan.
 
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HextallS550

HextallS550

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I think I have it sorted out and got the Navigation working correctly, thanks to a member on the forum it was easy fix and something I messed up in the inbuilt data on the APIM.

I am still getting 4 DTC codes, two in the APIM and two in the FMIC. Not throwing a check engine light at this time, but they do show up in ForScan.
What’d you change?

Use the FMIC data I posted. Fixed every car I’ve used it on.

I think the solution to the APIM DADC DTC is going to be found by looking at C-MAX and Fiesta. No DSP module in those even though they have Sync 3.
 

jperls

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OK...

So I have bit the bullet and bought the following parts:

Bezel (without seat heating)
Screen and APIM (non-nav)
GPS antenna

Parts that I still need (at least I think this is what I need)

1. Media Hub (HU5Z-19A387-A)
2. Bezel to Hub USB Cable (FR3Z-14D202-A)
3. APIM to Hub cable (FR3Z-14D202-B)
4. 50 or so Tyco (aka TE) 1924955-3 terminals
5. Ford WPT-1239
6. some 22 gauge wire in different colors

There are a couple of questions I have before attempting this:

1. It looks like there is some wire soldering involved with this...is there any other way to attach the wires without soldering them (never done it before and it sounds a little complex)?

2. It looks like the infographic that is supposed to be below step 5 in the original post is missing...can we load that back up?

3. Is there a visual diagram of the 54 pin connector with each hole numbered so we can visually see where each wire is supposed to swap (even better would be a photo of this)?

I am upgrading from a base to Sync 3...no HD radio, No Satellite ratio, No navigation.

Anything else I seem to be missing or suggestions would be great :)

Thanks :)
 

coolemoff1

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What's the part number on bezel no seat heat and were did u find it I'm doing this swap also
 

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I think I have it sorted out and got the Navigation working correctly, thanks to a member on the forum it was easy fix and something I messed up in the inbuilt data on the APIM.

I am still getting 4 DTC codes, two in the APIM and two in the FMIC. Not throwing a check engine light at this time, but they do show up in ForScan.
What did you change? Mine has been backwards for the past 3-4 months lol
 

MAV

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4. 50 or so Tyco (aka TE) 1924955-3 terminals
5. Ford WPT-1239
6. some 22 gauge wire in different colors
You bought my screen/APIM, so I'll throw in the terminals and wire when I ship it tomorrow. Look at the link in the OP for a cheaper JST alternative to the WPT1239.

1. It looks like there is some wire soldering involved with this...is there any other way to attach the wires without soldering them (never done it before and it sounds a little complex)?
Not hard, but if you aren't comfortable, you can cut the MS-CAN wires at the GPSM, strip them, and twist your added wire into each bundle, and secure them with small wire nuts.

There is enough slack in the old screen connector to cut the video wires, add terminals, and insert into the APIM connector, so no soldering needed there.

I am upgrading from a base to Sync 3...no HD radio, No Satellite ratio, No navigation.
Same thing I did. You only need to add four 22 ga wires if you use the procedure for the video wires mentioned above.

We are here to help!
 
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HextallS550

HextallS550

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Do not cut any wires and do not use wire nuts! The CAN system is sensitive to resistance. It also redundant and that chain shouldn't be broken.
 

z06psi

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Got the swap done yesterday.


Got some programming to do now.

Missing on screen climate controls and for some reason the time within Sync shows up for about 2 seconds upon boot up but then goes --:-- after that.

Android Auto and Waze works as I was able to update to v2.3 last night. Good shit!!!
 

jperls

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What's the part number on bezel no seat heat and were did u find it I'm doing this swap also
I got lucky and found it on e-bay. If my plan works out, I may not need the parts that are the bezel deletes for the seat heaters (planning on seeing if I can keep original base climate controls and from the looks of it, this might just work)...fingers crossed.
 

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jperls

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You bought my screen/APIM, so I'll throw in the terminals and wire when I ship it tomorrow. Look at the link in the OP for a cheaper JST alternative to the WPT1239.


Not hard, but if you aren't comfortable, you can cut the MS-CAN wires at the GPSM, strip them, and twist your added wire into each bundle, and secure them with small wire nuts.

There is enough slack in the old screen connector to cut the video wires, add terminals, and insert into the APIM connector, so no soldering needed there.


Same thing I did. You only need to add four 22 ga wires if you use the procedure for the video wires mentioned above.

We are here to help!
If you are shipping to Sacramento, then yes I did. Feel very happy to be working with another forum member :). Out of curiosity, why are you selling it?

So looking forward to doing this and as I have said, if everything goes well, I will have a unique setup to this whole thing :)
 
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HextallS550

HextallS550

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I got lucky and found it on e-bay. If my plan works out, I may not need the parts that are the bezel deletes for the seat heaters (planning on seeing if I can keep original base climate controls and from the looks of it, this might just work)...fingers crossed.
You can't. The circuit board is all one piece.
 

jperls

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You can't. The circuit board is all one piece.
I plan on cutting the parts that have to deal with the base keypad and through the 9 selector buttons. Looking at the circuit board, I believe these connections can be dremeled off without affecting the functionality of the rest of the board.

I have attached the photos of the circuit board for the GT350R delete vs. the regular base circuit board for references as to why I believe I can safely Dremel the board without affecting the other systems.
35926661462_49247304dc_k.jpg
36055865476_4776c919cd_k.jpg
 
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HextallS550

HextallS550

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I plan on cutting the parts that have to deal with the base keypad and through the 9 selector buttons. Looking at the circuit board, I believe these connections can be dremeled off without affecting the functionality of the rest of the board.
Why? It's already been attempted. It doesn't work.
 
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