Suspension Issues GTPP Worn Dampers?

[magellan]

2015 GTPP experiencing cupping tire wear on inner edge of front tires. Took vehicle to Ford in December while still under warranty, but they couldn't find anything wrong with the suspension. Alignment was within spec. Tires are Michelin MPSS. It seems to me that the ride is more harsh and bouncy than when new, which leads me to believe that it is the struts. Ford says no, and will not replace.

Looking to go aftermarket at this point. Car is a DD and will see some track use, HPDE in the future. I am looking at Koni Yellows and BMR spr083 springs, but I don't want to sacrifice ride quality completely as the car will still be a DD for a while yet. Looking to tame the bouncy feel of these cars and be more confident in the handling overall. Is there another combo I should be looking at since the car still needs to serve as my main transportation for a while?

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[BmacIL]

SP763 springs. Ford Racing track dampers or Steeda Pro Actions. Bilstein will be brilliant when the rear shocks are available (I've seen some sites with them but not sure). SP083 will handle awesome but will probably be firmer/harsher than you want if you are not looking to sacrifice ride.

 

[magellan]

Thanks for the quick response. I have a few follow up questions if you don't mind. Is that a 'no' on the Konis? Overkill for the street? I can't seem to find it, but do you happen to know the spring rates on the stock PP springs? I don't mind if the ride is a little more firm as long as I can lose the bounce.

 

[BmacIL]

Thanks for the quick response. I have a few follow up questions if you don't mind. Is that a 'no' on the Konis? Overkill for the street? I can't seem to find it, but do you happen to know the spring rates on the stock PP springs? I don't mind if the ride is a little more firm as long as I can lose the bounce.

Overkill for anything near stock spring rates, but good for something like the SP083. The SP763 will be just a touch more firm than stock, but the Ford Racing track dampers will make the car much more settled and controlled. Steeda's billet rear shock mounts are also incredibly effective at getting rid of the bounce because of the bearing. Stock PP rates are 165/728 front and rear. SP763 are 170/740.

My recommendation for overall package:
BMR SP763 springs
FRPP track dampers
BMR CB005 lockout kit
Steeda billet shock mounts

It will ride great, handle greater, and be overall extremely well balanced and more precise.

 

[magellan]

Overkill for anything near stock spring rates, but good for something like the SP083. The SP763 will be just a touch more firm than stock, but the Ford Racing track dampers will make the car much more settled and controlled. Steeda's billet rear shock mounts are also incredibly effective at getting rid of the bounce because of the bearing. Stock PP rates are 165/728 front and rear. SP763 are 170/740.

My recommendation for overall package:
BMR SP763 springs
FRPP track dampers
BMR CB005 lockout kit
Steeda billet shock mounts

It will ride great, handle greater, and be overall extremely well balanced and more precise.

Thanks again! Sounds like that is exactly what I'm looking for.

 

[Roadway 5.0]

The factory PP dampers are not very good. My left rear shock was already having issues when I upgraded my suspension at 12k miles and the dampers never felt like they were properly matched to the springs (bouncy).

As far as a solid daily driven street suspension/HPDE setup, have a look here:

Steeda Ultralite Review

Steeda Shock Mounts & Rear Sway Bar Review

I truly believe I cracked the code on having a well balanced daily driver suspension that can still perform very well on a track. Here's my overall recommendation:

Ultralite Springs (225F/880R)
Fixed ProAction Shocks/Struts
Shock Mounts
2-Point K-member Brace
Rear-Sway Bar (adjust to your flavor)
Alignment: .1 toe-in all four tires

Add up the cost...the value is unbeatable. If you had a base Mustang, I'd say replace the front sway too. With the PP the front sway is very good and maintains excellent road manners, in my opinion, so no need to replace it unless you are a serious racer.

Good luck,

Mike

 

[NightmareMoon]

IDK, I like my Koni yellows on the street just fine. This is the third different make of car I’ve run Koni yellows on.

Bounce is usually not enough shock for the spring rate. The 15-17 PP cars are known to bounce a bit too much for a lot of us.

 

[magellan]

The factory PP dampers are not very good. My left rear shock was already having issues when I upgraded my suspension at 12k miles and the dampers never felt like they were properly matched to the springs (bouncy).

As far as a solid daily driven street suspension/HPDE setup, have a look here:

Steeda Ultralite Review

Steeda Shock Mounts & Rear Sway Bar Review

I truly believe I cracked the code on having a well balanced daily driver suspension that can still perform very well on a track. Here's my overall recommendation:

Ultralite Springs (225F/880R)
Fixed ProAction Shocks/Struts
Shock Mounts
2-Point K-member Brace
Rear-Sway Bar (adjust to your flavor)
Alignment: .1 toe-in all four tires

Add up the cost...the value is unbeatable. If you had a base Mustang, I'd say replace the front sway too. With the PP the front sway is very good and maintains excellent road manners, in my opinion, so no need to replace it unless you are a serious racer.

Good luck,

Mike

Thanks for the additional recommendation! Nice to know there are multiple options.

 

[magellan]

IDK, I like my Koni yellows on the street just fine. This is the third different make of car I’ve run Koni yellows on.

Bounce is usually not enough shock for the spring rate. The 15-17 PP cars are known to bounce a bit too much for a lot of us.

What springs are you running? What part of Austin? I'm actually in Pflugerville.

 

[Niz55]

From over 10 different suspension combos I have ran including coilovers my favorite was koni yellow and Eibach pro kit.

 

[NightmareMoon]

What springs are you running? What part of Austin? I'm actually in Pflugerville.

Stock PP springs. Since you’re close you could check them out in person. I’m north-central, near Arboritum.

Loosing the inside edge of the tire seems common on our cars. IDK why, maybe the weight? I just replaced a set of MPSS due to inside edge wear. Got 20k on them but the inside edge went out before I hit the wear bars on the rest of the tire.

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