Steeda Vertical Link Question.

[Buldawg76]

Just to follow up, subframe support bushes done :

Other parts on the radar, but I've not purchased them yet ...

WD

You will need to be very careful when installing the rear lower lockout bushing that are in 2 pieces since they require some prying force to get them squeezed in place on the subframe bushing. It is highly probable that you will scratch the outside radius of the longer pieces getting them in far enough to get the screws started to pull the halves up tight together.

I know when installing mine they got a few light scars on the long pieces. They are a very tight fit.

BD

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[tj@steeda]

I asked a few months ago if they'd do custom finishes. TJ said he'd look into it but they never got back to me. I ended up going with another brand.

www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/vertical-links-question.175249/

My apologies - I get pushed & pulled in every direction - I did ask & was told they can't be custom-made by Steeda Manufacturing.

TJ

 

[tj@steeda]

My apologies - I get pushed & pulled in every direction - I did ask & was told they can't be custom-made by Steeda Manufacturing.

Just so I can back it up

TJ

 

[WD Pro]

Do you have to have the Steeda versions?
What about these?

https://aadperformance.com/en-ca/pr...rear-vertical-link-kit?variant=39321264914516

https://snyder-performance-engineer...-links-fits-2011-2021-mustang-2016-2020-gt350

Boomba did make red ones but they aren't available ATM
https://www.boombaracing.com/s550-mustang-vertical-links/

I know there is no logical reason, but I'm kind of brand loyalist and picked Steeda (and Ford Performance) from the beginning

The only time I have wondered away from that is for rear camber adjustment where I went with J&M (same design, much cheaper to source in the UK and stainless rather than plated). I will eventually pair those with the J&M front camber / castor adjustment kit though

Having said that, the Boomba kit has been on my radar for a while now ... lol

Those look to good to install! Please be sure and get some pics of the bottom of your car once you get everything coated and in place.

Will do, but be fore warned, our euro's don't look pretty under there ...

If they did a 'no underseal' option I would have gladly taken it ...

Did you see the work I did on the IRS braces ?

Time to work on the Steeda stuff As supplied, appears to be very little surface prep prior to coating :

Confirmed after a chemical strip :

Some nice fabrication work though :

Straight from the chemical bath :

After dressing / blunting all the sharp edges / removing weld spatter / smoothing some of the welds etc :

Standard - a nice rust starter, even with good coating :

After some brazing (done in the front room ... ) :

Dressed up :

Coated in RAL3020 (traffic red). I used 3020 as it’s a proper red, I have used it before on other auto projects and as I know the reference, I can easily match it in future :

WD

After waiting for the Steeda spacers for the front brace (missing in my delivery), it was obvious that they weren’t a good fit on my car - not Steeda’s fault as they are trying to hit a moving target. On my car I had very little deformation of the cross member and very few burrs on the internal faces which meant the Steeda spacers were very loose and wouldn’t have done anything to stop me crimping the cross member. I know Steeda have been criticised in the past for the spacers being too tight so I am guessing Steeda have reduced the spacer height over time and then Ford must have just refreshed the punch tooling ... lol. New v old spacers :

New spacers are larger diameter, 2.5mm taller and made from stainless.

I have obviously lost the ‘tail’ that would help with fitment, but with a bit of care and attention the new spacers are still easily positioned without issue and with hindsight, I probably could have got them made another mm taller.

Large diameter thick gauge stainless washers will be used to further spread the load along with flange nuts for the topside (Standard Steeda stuff on the left) :

WD

Looks like they got the powder to match the RAL code OK :

Final QC sign off done my Jasmine … :

Got a bit of ramp time (yesterday) at an old school friend’s garage so I finally got to christen the jacking rails :

Took all my own tools so as not to abuse the favour and he just let me get on with it after showing me where to find the up button on the ramp

The front brace is now on, I think it was worth sourcing the upgraded hardware :

Blue Loctite on the bolts, torqued then to 60ft/lb and plenty of Waxoyl got sprayed into the cross member and around the joints etc.

It was a very quick job (maybe 20 mins max), including having a chat etc I was still back home by 9:00am


WD

You will need to be very careful when installing the rear lower lockout bushing that are in 2 pieces since they require some prying force to get them squeezed in place on the subframe bushing. It is highly probable that you will scratch the outside radius of the longer pieces getting them in far enough to get the screws started to pull the halves up tight together.

I know when installing mine they got a few light scars on the long pieces. They are a very tight fit.

BD

Yeah thanks for the heads up

I spotted that on the installation video's which was another reason for doing this mod :

I already had the Steeda cradle support bushes, but after seeing them on a U.K. car and how they hold up against salt / winter, I decided to modify them a little.

I re tapped the 10-32” UNF holes to M5 through holes and cleaned up the sharp edges of the bore holes (top as supplied / bottom modified) :

The thread can now come all the way through making for easier fitment and reducing a dirt collection / corrosion point.

These things appear to be made as a set and then cut, rather than being fully interchangeable :

Prepped for anodising :

No more corrosion traps or bolt heads hidden down the bores and therefore hopefully easier to remove (if required) if the future :

WD

It may not be immediately apparent, but the photo of them in red shows one open and the threads still engaged - they will now start to clamp in a much more open position than originally supplied.

I'm hoping that and the subframe being dropped is enough, but if not I hope to use wood to pry them into place enough to get the threads started

My apologies - I get pushed & pulled in every direction - I did ask & was told they can't be custom-made by Steeda Manufacturing.

TJ

Thanks for the update, but I still think you might be missing an opportunity ...

WD

 

[NGOT8R]

I know there is no logical reason, but I'm kind of brand loyalist and picked Steeda (and Ford Performance) from the beginning

The only time I have wondered away from that is for rear camber adjustment where I went with J&M (same design, much cheaper to source in the UK and stainless rather than plated). I will eventually pair those with the J&M front camber / castor adjustment kit though

Having said that, the Boomba kit has been on my radar for a while now ... lol



Will do, but be fore warned, our euro's don't look pretty under there ...

If they did a 'no underseal' option I would have gladly taken it ...

Did you see the work I did on the IRS braces ?








Yeah thanks for the heads up

I spotted that on the installation video's which was another reason for doing this mod :



It may not be immediately apparent, but the photo of them in red shows one open and the threads still engaged - they will now start to clamp in a much more open position than originally supplied.

I'm hoping that and the subframe being dropped is enough, but if not I hope to use wood to pry them into place enough to get the threads started



Thanks for the update, but I still think you might be missing an opportunity ...

WD

Great work WD! I like how you’ve improved upon the areas that needed it. I think you’ll be able to install the anodized support bushings without marring them up. When I installed mine, I sprayed a generous amount of WD-40 on the cradle areas and pressed them into place.

 

[Buldawg76]

""I'm hoping that and the subframe being dropped is enough, but if not I hope to use wood to pry them into place enough to get the threads started.""


The subframe being dropped will have no effect or benefit on how easy the rear lower lockout clamps will slide into place, will still need pryed in to start threads.

BD

 

[WD Pro]

Those look to good to install! Please be sure and get some pics of rhe bottom of your car once you get everything coated and in place.

Well its getting better :

You will need to be very careful when installing the rear lower lockout bushing that are in 2 pieces since they require some prying force to get them squeezed in place on the subframe bushing. It is highly probable that you will scratch the outside radius of the longer pieces getting them in far enough to get the screws started to pull the halves up tight together.

I know when installing mine they got a few light scars on the long pieces. They are a very tight fit.

BD

I think you’ll be able to install the anodized support bushings without marring them up.

I didn't get to do these myself

My tech confirmed they were very tight, but he did mange to get them in place without a mark (and I have checked closely)

The subframe being dropped will have no effect or benefit on how easy the rear lower lockout clamps will slide into place, will still need pryed in to start threads.

BD

I think (know) my through holes and extended bolts helped

WD

 

[Buldawg76]

Yep, those longer bolts, and spacers would make all the difference in being able to pull the lockout clamps into place. Good work around.

BD

 

[NGOT8R]

@WD Pro, looking nice and clean underneath the car. I like the coating on the pipes too.

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