Steeda roll center install help

Discussion in 'Suspension, Brakes & Chassis' started by crcpdx, May 19, 2020.

  1. crcpdx

    crcpdx Well-Known Member

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    Any tips on getting the arms out?
     
  2. aleccolin

    aleccolin Well-Known Member

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    Do you mean separated from the knuckle, or from the chassis?
     
  3. OP
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    crcpdx

    crcpdx Well-Known Member

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    Knuckle, videos show then sliding right out lol, I'm ready to grab a sledgehammer
     
  4. BluePonyGT

    BluePonyGT Well-Known Member

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    You're talking about following the directions in this document?:

    https://www.steeda.com/assets/images/Instructions/555-4906-steeda-s550-front-LCAs.pdf

    I'd probably unbolt the lateral and tension link from the subframe first since that's going to require some serious leverage and "elbow grease" to get loose, Then I'd tap the tapered stud out of the spindle to remove the arm completely. I almost did this in my suspension upgrade but chose to hold off until I got a chance to drive the car around with the stock arms.
     
  5. BluePonyGT

    BluePonyGT Well-Known Member

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    Oh and don't BANG on the tapered stud too much. If it's not budging with some light tapping - heat is your friend (but not too much heat).
     
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    crcpdx

    crcpdx Well-Known Member

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    I got it off the chassis ready enough. The tapered end on the knuckle isn't moving.
     
  7. aleccolin

    aleccolin Well-Known Member

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    Drilling hammer or a big ball peen on the knuckle itself, where the stud goes through. The shock will jar the tapered stud loose, it works 9/10 times. You can improve your chances by adding some PB Blaster to the mix and maybe some heat with a torch, but usually the hammer technique does it for me.
     
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  8. Danmg202

    Danmg202 Well-Known Member

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    This is what I've done with great success, there's a bit of a raised spot on the side knuckle hole that hitting works wonders on
     
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    crcpdx

    crcpdx Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys
     
  10. moffetts

    moffetts Well-Known Member

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    I beat the piss out of mine, but obviously that requires commitment that the stock parts will be destroyed and there is no turning back.
     
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    crcpdx

    crcpdx Well-Known Member

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    Yup, tapping on side might have helped, but rage and a.mini sledge got them out
     
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  12. BluePonyGT

    BluePonyGT Well-Known Member

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    Heat, people. Heat.

    It doesn't take much. I have a small bottle of map gas with an torch end on it just for stuff like this. Put a little heat on it then tap the side of the knuckle where the tapered stud goes through. It should separate easy as pie.

    I had to heat up the rear brake rotor so I could remove my half shaft last week to replaced the damaged seal. It popped right off with that. It also helped separate the half-shaft from the knuckle too.
     
  13. moffetts

    moffetts Well-Known Member

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    Or, beat the piss out of it.
     
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