- Joined
- Oct 17, 2014
- Threads
- 78
- Messages
- 3,433
- Reaction score
- 1,911
- Location
- United States
- Website
- www.steeda.com
- First Name
- David
- Vehicle(s)
- Bolt-on, slammed S197
Hi guys, wanted to provide a bit of additional info from our recent testing. We've had several engineers from Steeda and other partners (best in the industry) from different parts of the country doing extensive suspension testing with us all week.
What we have found is even after torquing the sway bar end link nut to spec, after a couple weeks it still comes loose - we recommend using red loctite to prevent this.
We've been very busy putting our new and existing parts to the test on our test track and at SGMP for the next level of suspension components going into next year.
Also, our new parts will compliment your existing suspension setup very nicely. We've been testing spring rates and multiple variations of shock valving to ensure the best possible performance and ride quality. We've had our springs (and third-party springs) and sway bars in and out of the cars hundreds of times with no clunking or odd noises whatsoever. Be sure to check the upper strut mount and use a pneumatic air gun (not a torque wrench) to ensure it's tight enough by torquing to factory spec in addition to ensuring the end link isn't coming loose.
What we have found is even after torquing the sway bar end link nut to spec, after a couple weeks it still comes loose - we recommend using red loctite to prevent this.
We've been very busy putting our new and existing parts to the test on our test track and at SGMP for the next level of suspension components going into next year.
Also, our new parts will compliment your existing suspension setup very nicely. We've been testing spring rates and multiple variations of shock valving to ensure the best possible performance and ride quality. We've had our springs (and third-party springs) and sway bars in and out of the cars hundreds of times with no clunking or odd noises whatsoever. Be sure to check the upper strut mount and use a pneumatic air gun (not a torque wrench) to ensure it's tight enough by torquing to factory spec in addition to ensuring the end link isn't coming loose.
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