Steeda install. Rear cradle mount might be stripped...

Discussion in 'Suspension, Brakes & Chassis' started by georgiarocker, Mar 21, 2018.

  1. georgiarocker

    georgiarocker Member

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    So I'm installing Steeda's subframe alignment kit (inserts and bushings). Everything goes great but I'm about 3/8" shy of snugging up and the front mounting bolt on the driver's side. It simply won't tighten any farther.

    Before anyone says it, I know the inserts only go in one way.

    So, I've tried every possible combination of jacking, prying, and tightening/loosening the 4 cradle bolts and nothing works. Tonight I thought I'd start all over again and perhaps install the troublesome bolt first but before doing that I thought I'd just check to see if the bolt would just go in without the bushing so I removed the tires and rear shocks from the mounts, loosened the passenger side front and rear bolts, removed the driver front and rear bolts, and attempted to just install the front bolt without the insert and once again, the bolt goes in but stops about 3/8" from the cradle with the cradle snug to the body and there's nothing to bind the bolt other than the threads. The bolt came out with metal shavings on the threads and the first 2 threads are worn down. Looking into the hole, there's a bunch of metal dust and shavings.

    I'm wondering if the cradle has been installed so poorly (previously) that now that the inserts are forcing a more straight/aligned bolt installation, it's just fighting back? I've successfully lowered the cradle two times previously, once to install a set of springs and once to install a differential bushing kit. Haven't had a problem till now. Oh, and it's only been driven about 50 miles since lowering and reinstalling the cradle twice.

    I'm at a loss of what to do next. 29473056_10211975173911284_2279606316722814976_o.jpg
     
  2. xmustangx

    xmustangx Well-Known Member

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    Time to buy a Tap.
     
  3. Gurjit

    Gurjit Well-Known Member

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    Best/most reliable way to repair is going to require you to drop the whole sub frame.
    Unless you want to remove the other 3 bolts to line that one bad one up perfectly straight, then using one of the other bolts, gun the bolt in and out to try and bring the threads back.
     
  4. xmustangx

    xmustangx Well-Known Member

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    DO NOT DO SUGGESTED ABOVE!!! You are going to have to drop the cradle BUT GO BUY A TAP. Do it the CORRECT way.
     
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  5. Gurjit

    Gurjit Well-Known Member

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    I clearly stated the correct/best way is to drop it like its hot:headbonk:
     
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  6. Barrel

    Barrel Hoonigan

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    Yeah my subframe has been apart maybe 6 or 7 times. This last time the threads were just really beat up so I had to clean them up and re tap the holes.

    So, +1 for tapping.
     
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  7. Dr. Norts

    Dr. Norts Well-Known Member

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    If all else fails buy a helicoil kit. Helicoils are actually stronger than the original tapped threads and super easy to do.

    The kit will come with a tap sized one size bigger than the current thread size, a helicoil installation tool and a helicoil.

    tap the hole out with the bigger sized tap, thread in the helicoil into the new threads and done. The outer threads of the helicoil are the same size/pitch as the tap that came in the kit and the internal threads on the helicoil would be the same size as the threads on the subframe bolts.

    That would be my last resort but even if the hole is completely fucked your not out of options.
     
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  8. OP
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    georgiarocker

    georgiarocker Member

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    Thanks for the feedback guys.
    I only know how to do one type of tapping... :cheers:
    Guess it's time to learn another!
     
  9. Zelek

    Zelek Well-Known Member

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    I got a nice tap and die set just because of this install. The tap was a lifesaver on one of my bolts.
     
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  10. OP
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    georgiarocker

    georgiarocker Member

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    So... just to confirm, the entire assembly needs to come off to tap the hole or, is the tap long enough to do it with the assembly in place?
     
  11. gtorpedo

    gtorpedo Well-Known Member

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    You should not need to drop the cradle at all to get a tap into the threads
     
  12. xmustangx

    xmustangx Well-Known Member

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    Get a socket that fits the end of the Tap. Use an extension and get it started by hand then use a ratchet to run it the rest of the way in. Also not mentioned use a STARTER TAP. Would also help to dip the tap in oil before starting.
     
  13. 08StangGT_CS

    08StangGT_CS Fight The Urge to Boost

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    +1 for running a tap. Purchased one after installing springs and stripping one of the bolts.
     
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  14. Rollin'

    Rollin' Member

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    I would recommend putting a NEW bolt in the repaired hole. A die or a thread file/chaser on the bolt at minimum. Good luck fixing everything!
     
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    georgiarocker

    georgiarocker Member

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    Been thinking about the bolt as well. The first 2 threads started to flatten and I planned to use a die to clean it up.
     
  16. OP
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    georgiarocker

    georgiarocker Member

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    Starter tap? Sorry for the dumb question, but this will be my first time using a tap/die.
     
  17. OP
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    georgiarocker

    georgiarocker Member

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    Do you happen to remember what size? I'll figure it out eventually, but thought I'd ask.
     
  18. SteedaTech

    SteedaTech Well-Known Member
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    14x2.0

    Steeda Tech
     
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  19. Dr. Norts

    Dr. Norts Well-Known Member

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    Don't cheap out on the tap either. Get a good quality one, the last thing you want is a shitty tap snapping off in the hole.
     
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  20. xmustangx

    xmustangx Well-Known Member

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