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Steeda install. Rear cradle mount might be stripped...

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georgiarocker

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Get a socket that fits the end of the Tap. Use an extension and get it started by hand then use a ratchet to run it the rest of the way in. Also not mentioned use a STARTER TAP. Would also help to dip the tap in oil before starting.
Starter tap? Sorry for the dumb question, but this will be my first time using a tap/die.
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georgiarocker

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+1 for running a tap. Purchased one after installing springs and stripping one of the bolts.
Do you happen to remember what size? I'll figure it out eventually, but thought I'd ask.
 

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Don't cheap out on the tap either. Get a good quality one, the last thing you want is a shitty tap snapping off in the hole.
 

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That. I also purchased new bolts off of Levington for a couple of bucks. I think shipping was more than the bolts and took a while but replaced when after I got the tap and bolts.
 
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I just installed the alignment kit today as well and just like yours, the drivers side was waaaaayyyy off. With the passenger and rear inserts and bolts installed, there's no way to even pry the drivers side over. I did have the bolt to try and start to cross thread on me but after using a 3/8" socket on the end of the 14mmx2.00 tap, I got it fixed. At this point how can the inserts ALIGN the cradle. Makes no sense to me after installing them. Hope you got yours ironed out.
 

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I also have the alignment kit. I was able to use a pry bar to achieve alignment and get all 4 bolts started by hand. The drivers front did try to cross thread on me but I backed it out and was finally able to get it going by hand. I wonder if that one is a problem for some reason?
 
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UPDATE: Cradle installed. The tap set I purchased was great. It came with three taps (starter, intermediate, and plug) and I used them all. The new bolt went in like butter.

As for the final install, you guys are correct, the steeda inserts FORCE you to be lined up perfectly over the hole(s) which is a difficult thing to do.

The way I did it was... I installed 3 of the 4 bolts about 3/8" gap between the cradle and the body and saved the driver's-rear bolt until last. The hole was off center by about 1/4" to 3/8" or thereabouts. It took a LOT of prying pressure, but I held pressure while my wife ratcheted the bolt in.

Off to get an alignment now.
 

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Anyone have a ford PN for the subframe bolts? I know they're not TTY but I may replace mine anyway because they've been out 2 or 3 times now.
 
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Anyone have a ford PN for the subframe bolts? I know they're not TTY but I may replace mine anyway because they've been out 2 or 3 times now.

W717827-S900.

ordered mine from oemfordpart.com and they came from a dealership a couple hours away. I thought I was ordering (1) bolt for $4.03, but got a set of four! So, I'm not sure if it's per set or per bolt.
 

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my subframe was the same way. It was off on the front passenger side bolt. I ended up using a crank jack (that come with most ford cars, in this case was from an Edge) and positioned it an an angle so that I could move the subframe into place and have a free hand to fasten the bolt.
 

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This thread has me thinking. I installed the Steeda IRS cradle kit last year. Had the car aligned....everything is aces. I bought a cradle alignment kit since the I'll have the car on the lift. However after seeing what the OP went through I am wondering if I should hold off on installing the kit until the day comes that I am dropping the cradle again.

I am thinking since the car is in spec, could the alignment kit help? Thoughts? [MENTION=25806]SteedaTech[/MENTION]
 

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This thread has me thinking. I installed the Steeda IRS cradle kit last year. Had the car aligned....everything is aces. I bought a cradle alignment kit since the I'll have the car on the lift. However after seeing what the OP went through I am wondering if I should hold off on installing the kit until the day comes that I am dropping the cradle again.

I am thinking since the car is in spec, could the alignment kit help? Thoughts? [MENTION=25806]SteedaTech[/MENTION]
The Steeda alignment kit centers the IRS subframe ,while keeping it from shifting under hard acceleration. Always, hand start all four bolts before securing or torquing to spec. In most cases, it is common to pry or shift the IRS subframe into place.

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