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Stalling whenever I tap the gas after starting

Mindstrong617

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So I had some issues with my o2 sensor, heater circuit for a couple months now and finally fixed it. Now whenever I start my car and tap the gas the rpm drops and the car wants to stall but it doesn't, wanted to see if I could get some suggestions on what it could be
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DevonTK

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Check for vacuum leaks. Check fuel pressure. Clean MAF sensor. do you have any codes?
 
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Mindstrong617

Mindstrong617

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No vaccume leak and I don't have the tools to check the fuel pressure
 
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Mindstrong617

Mindstrong617

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No codes popping up as of now either but I will try and clean the MAF
 
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Mindstrong617

Mindstrong617

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Check for vacuum leaks. Check fuel pressure. Clean MAF sensor. do you have any codes?
No vaccume leak or codes, I'll clean the MAF and don't know or have any tools for checking the fuel pressure. Thanks for your message it means a lot to me.
 

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ORRadtech

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How did you check for vacuum leaks?
How are you checking for codes? Some conditions won't trigger a CEL but a good scan tool might see something.
 
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Mindstrong617

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How did you check for vacuum leaks?
How are you checking for codes? Some conditions won't trigger a CEL but a good scan tool might see something.
I sprayed the vacuum hose ends with soapy water and I have a sct scanner. I've had codes for my o2 sensor for my heater circuit and fixed it. I know some stuff but not a full blown mechanic, I was leaning towards the MAF sensor but not getting any codes is why I decided to check with someone more experienced.
 

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Smoke test is best for finding vacuum leaks. Soapy waters good for finding tire leaks. Doubt it's the MAF sensor. Your car would be bad, all the time.
 

ORRadtech

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I'm unfamiliar with the capabilities of an sct device. Good scan tools can provide tone of information, the ability to compare different PIDs/live data and perform active tests on a variety of components. Things like turning on/off the evaporative purge valve and canister vent valve - common sources of vacuum problems.
Finding a vacuum leak with soapy water is very difficult. It won't blow bubbles as it's sucking air Into the system, not blowing out. A smoke machine is the preferred way to find a vacuum leak but even that can be very difficult to find a very small one.
The old school way to check for a vacuum leak was to spray something like starter fluid on the connections and listen for a change in engine rpm. GREAT CARE should be taken if you try that route as those kinds of fluids are highly flammable.
 
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Mindstrong617

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I'm unfamiliar with the capabilities of an sct device. Good scan tools can provide tone of information, the ability to compare different PIDs/live data and perform active tests on a variety of components. Things like turning on/off the evaporative purge valve and canister vent valve - common sources of vacuum problems.
Finding a vacuum leak with soapy water is very difficult. It won't blow bubbles as it's sucking air Into the system, not blowing out. A smoke machine is the preferred way to find a vacuum leak but even that can be very difficult to find a very small one.
The old school way to check for a vacuum leak was to spray something like starter fluid on the connections and listen for a change in engine rpm. GREAT CARE should be taken if you try that route as those kinds of fluids are highly flammable.
Thanks for your time I will try looking into it more because I just don't want to drive my girl with knowing she's a little sick and just disregard the problem only because it happens when she is cold. For the most part she drives great when she's at operating temperature and because I have a automatic starter I don't know how long she's been like this because I warn her up every time I'm going out.
 

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Mindstrong617

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Smoke test is best for finding vacuum leaks. Soapy waters good for finding tire leaks. Doubt it's the MAF sensor. Your car would be bad, all the time.
Yeah I was going to do the smoke test next, and I do agree with u on the MAF because I had that problem in a maxima I had and it was bad but I also think every car is different, but thanks for your help well appreciated..
 

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It sounds like the issue started when you said you fixed your 02 issue? What was the problem and how did you fix it? If something started right after you fixed something else, its 90% likely your problem is somewhere in that area... Unless you have luck like me and it's just random after the fact.
 
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Mindstrong617

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It sounds like the issue started when you said you fixed your 02 issue? What was the problem and how did you fix it? If something started right after you fixed something else, its 90% likely your problem is somewhere in that area... Unless you have luck like me and it's just random after the fact.
I have longtube headers and one of the o2 sensor bungee got stripped and needed to rethread it. Kept getting a heater circuit code so I rethreaded the hole and bought a new 02. So I'm thinking maybe I need to change out the other side.
 

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So I had some issues with my o2 sensor, heater circuit for a couple months now and finally fixed it. Now whenever I start my car and tap the gas the rpm drops and the car wants to stall but it doesn't, wanted to see if I could get some suggestions on what it could be
Dont know if you fixed your issue but what exactly did you do to fix your O2 issue? Do you have a way to create a data log while idling and then when you tap the gas you would have a log to review. If your problem started after you did the O2 work I would go their first. And then after ruling out go after vacuum leaks etc.
 

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I have longtube headers and one of the o2 sensor bungee got stripped and needed to rethread it. Kept getting a heater circuit code so I rethreaded the hole and bought a new 02. So I'm thinking maybe I need to change out the other side.
Dont know if you fixed your issue but what exactly did you do to fix your O2 issue? Do you have a way to create a data log while idling and then when you tap the gas you would have a log to review. If your problem started after you did the O2 work I would go their first. And then after ruling out go after vacuum leaks etc.
As above, he said that the bung threads were stripped and he had a heater circuit code on the same sensor. To me that indicates two different issues as bad threads shouldn't have any effect on the O2 heater circuit. He replaced the sensor which eliminated the code.
My question now is how was the bung rethreaded? Just chased? Or what?
I'm wondering now if that O2 sensor is not sealing properly and letting enough fresh air in to the tweak the fuel trims? He says it only does it once the car is warmed up which, I believe, is when the fuel trims come out of closed loop. IDK, just a thought.
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