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Putting the car into drive right after starting it.

2015Etrac

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Could shifting a car into drive on the 6R80 transmission right after ignition harm anything? My car has a loud cold start, so I generally put the transmission into drive as soon as I start it, this cuts the sound down by 50% or more, however, I'm worried that throwing the car into gear that quickly could hurt something?
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seth21w

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I dont know if it will long term harm anything but i always let my vehicles at least idle down some maybe 30-40 secs or right at 1k rpms
 

thehunterooo

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Could shifting a car into drive on the 6R80 transmission right after ignition harm anything? My car has a loud cold start, so I generally put the transmission into drive as soon as I start it, this cuts the sound down by 50% or more, however, I'm worried that throwing the car into gear that quickly could hurt something?
I do the same thing. I start the car in neutral though and go into D or R depending how I park at my house.
 
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2015Etrac

2015Etrac

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I do the same thing. I start the car in neutral though and go into D or R depending how I park at my house.
Thanks. I'll have to try starting it in neutral. Does it help with the sound any vs. starting it in park?
 

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clevernickname

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Oh jeez now you have me worried. I do the same thing but didn't think I'd be doing any harm.
 

thehunterooo

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Thanks. I'll have to try starting it in neutral. Does it help with the sound any vs. starting it in park?
Hard to tell sound wise (maybe a bit quieter) but it feels smoother though since you can go right to R or right down to S or D “easier”. I go into sport and shift up to 3rd gear and idle my way out. I’m pretty fast doing it now haha. Though when I get headers......

I used to shift an older auto car as you could hold the gears 1-3. People were torn on rather or not it would damage the tranny constantly shifting it from 1 to 2 to D I guess because of the fluids and such but I did it for years and never had an issue. I’m already at 30k on this Stang with no issues. I don’t think it’s an issue and it’s not something I would worry about. Maybe older autos may be might susceptible to such things.

Also just noticed you have the same AB haha these things are LOUD. I’ve had them for almost three years and still love the sound.
 

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This shouldn't harm a modern engine, unless you are really giving it some revs right after start. It is usually best to allow the fluids to circulate before going above warm-up idle, but this doesn't take very long unless it is very cold outside.
 

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Shouldn't. Toque convertor will soften the the hit on the actual transmission.
Although I would still let it idle for about 10 seconds just to get the fluids in the transmission circling.
 

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^ I let it drop to at least 1k rpms before putting it in 1st and taking off.
 

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^ I let it drop to at least 1k rpms before putting it in 1st and taking off.
This. Let it drop from the initial cold start idle to the 1k rpm idle, then start driving. Don't rip on it hard (try keeping below 3k rpm) till oil temp is in the green. A good indicator is that the Launch Control icon won't show up in the cluster till oil and coolant temps are high enough. I don't remember if the auto has LC though. Either way just look at the oil temp. Definitely do drive off after the fluids have been circulating a bit (like I said, the 1k rpm idle), and don't let it warm up idling.
 

z31maniac

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Cold start is about lighting off the cats as quickly as possible, hence the increased RPM and louder exhaust (richer fuel mixture and retarded ignition timing to put more heat into the exhaust).

Driving the car is the best way to warm it up. Idling to operating temp causes much more wear.

Get in the car and go, just take it easy on revs and throttle position until it's warmed up.

I don't know if they still do it, but for instance on the old V8 M3s, the tachometer would slowly raise the acceptable redline as the car warmed up to show you what to keep the revs under.
 

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Cold start is about lighting off the cats as quickly as possible, hence the increased RPM and louder exhaust (richer fuel mixture and retarded ignition timing to put more heat into the exhaust).

Driving the car is the best way to warm it up. Idling to operating temp causes much more wear.

Get in the car and go, just take it easy on revs and throttle position until it's warmed up.

I don't know if they still do it, but for instance on the old V8 M3s, the tachometer would slowly raise the acceptable redline as the car warmed up to show you what to keep the revs under.
Yes, that's true about the primary purpose of cold start parameters, but it also warms the oil and coolant faster too. When it drops to the 1k idle it's basically transitioned to normal fuel and spark tables, at which point, drive.
 

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My Altima in the manual says to let the car idle for 15 seconds before doing anything.
 
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2015Etrac

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Thank's for the replies. I generally start driving about 30 to 45 seconds after I start the car and I keep the RPM's low on the road until it's warmed up. What I do is shift the car into gear within 5 seconds or so of the initial start, then I let it sit for another 30-45 seconds before driving. So, I don't immediately shift it into drive and start driving right away, I mainly just shift into gear to get the sound down. Basically, to clarify, I start the car, shift into drive/reverse within 5 seconds to tone the sound down, then let the car idle another 30-45 seconds in reverse, before slowly backing out of the driveway. Sorry if my comment was confusing.
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