SPRING RATES & DROPS: ALL IN ONE THREAD!!

[Biggsy]

The coilovers I have are recommended for a track car. I bought them without knowing what I was getting into after the American Muscle guy on the phone convinced me to get these instead of the FP Track handling pack lol. They do handle extremely well but way too firm for my liking. 672 lbs/in up front and 784 in the back lol.

ahhh I see. Then I would just swap out the springs or do you not want to take that direction?

Just get some hyperco or swift springs with the same measurements and lesser rate

 

[69boss]

ahhh I see. Then I would just swap out the springs or do you not want to take that direction?

Just get some hyperco or swift springs with the same measurements and lesser rate

Well I talked to the company and they said with the front dampers they don't recommend going below 10k spring (560 lbs/in) while I'm currently at 12k. I think I'd need to get them revalved and go to like an 8k spring for a comfortable ride. But even then I could spend a bunch of money and still not be happy with it, or I could just go with a tried and true combo of shocks and springs.

 

[Biggsy]

Well I talked to the company and they said with the front dampers they don't recommend going below 10k spring (560 lbs/in) while I'm currently at 12k. I think I'd need to get them revalved and go to like an 8k spring for a comfortable ride. But even then I could spend a bunch of money and still not be happy with it, or I could just go with a tried and true combo of shocks and springs.

I agree with your way of thinking as far as the best way the money should be spent.

I dont think you can go wrong with BMR or Steeda Springs. If you want to thro something else in the mix, AJ Hartman is working on a kit to run higher spring rate without going to coilovers. So height adjustable coil over springs up front on stock style dampers.

 

[Biggsy]

I agree with your way of thinking as far as the best way the money should be spent.

I dont think you can go wrong with BMR or Steeda Springs. If you want to thro something else in the mix, AJ Hartman is working on a kit to run higher spring rate without going to coilovers. So height adjustable coil over springs up front on stock style dampers.

updated reply

 

[HeelToeHero]

I'm on BMR minimal drop springs with PP1 danmpers and the ride feels like stock. You aren't gaining any performance with that setup though, but maybe you could pair it with the ford performance dampers you'd have a good all round setup.

 

[MrMike]

The coilovers I have are recommended for a track car. I bought them without knowing what I was getting into after the American Muscle guy on the phone convinced me to get these instead of the FP Track handling pack lol. They do handle extremely well but way too firm for my liking. 672 lbs/in up front and 784 in the back when the BMR is 300 up front lol.

I'm sorry you ended up with a setup you don't like, but if it's any consolation you've helped me feel better about the setup I've decided on.

I'm getting FP dampers with GT350 springs. A lot of people prefer the GT350R springs mainly for the stronger front. It's basically the track handling setup with less of a drop.

 

[5.0_SD]

PM'd you @69boss

 

[69boss]

I think for your purpose the popular combos are:
-The FRPP track kit
-FRPP dampers/BMR SP083 (what I have)
-Bilstein dampers/BMR SP083
-Steeda dampers(adjustable or non)/Steeda dual rate springs

How is the ride quality with your setup compared to stock?

 

[Biggsy]

How is the ride quality with your setup compared to stock?

honestly I dont remember lol. I have been on this set up going on 4 years now so I forgot what stock feels like and I dont drive any other mustangs.

 

[SilverNv]

Just wanted to add my thoughts on choosing springs. I read through this thread and a few others before I purchased my bmr handling springs ((250f/980r) on fp track dampers. It worked well for a while but I was always thinking it was a bit stiff for the rough roads around where I live. I ended up going to hotpart.com and getting their j&m springs springs 210f/815r minimal drop springs. These were installed on the same fp track dampers. I am quite happy so far on how these improved daily driving on the highway (grooves from chain control in the winter) and the uneven pavement and potholes. It really doesn’t feel any worse handling than before in corners. All in all quite happy with a softer rate (softer than the bmr but stiffer than stock pp1 springs set) of springs for daily driving.

 

[WItoTX]

Here you go, the info is valid for the FP full Magneride kit (M-9602-M), the FP spring only Magneride kit (M-5300-W) and the FP sway bar only Magneride kit (M-5490-G) :

• Front Springs = 250
• Rear Springs = Non linear 735
• Front Sway = 37.1 mm
• Rear Sway = 25.3 mm

The spring rate info came from this forum and it was measured (thanks to @949Racing ).

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/m-5300-w-fp-spring-rates.91226/

The sway bar info also came from this forum and it was measured with a Vernier - assume a very small error due to coating thickness (thanks to @KermiStang ). I assume the sways are hollow, but we don't know wall thickness.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...aussie-s550-today.44889/page-407#post-3545293

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...aussie-s550-today.44889/page-408#post-3548511

Hope that helps

WD

I searched and searched for this information for weeks when researching springs and rates a couple years back. I just so happened to find your post while looking for something completely unrelated. Thanks for posting, I wish there was a better way to identify keywords to find this info!

 

[obgod3]

Well the time has come, '19 GT PP1, left rear shock leaking. Got 47K on the car. I do not race at all, don't plan on it. Read tons of stuff here and thought I knew what to do but not so sure now. I don't want a super lowered car. While I think the car could handle better in some places, Cherohala type stuff I also like my highway road trip ride. So this is what I'm thinking:

- Steeda minimum drop springs 200/750
- Steeda Pro Action - Non-Adjustable
- No camber plate - if I can get away with it, local place did a nice job with my stock alignment
- Stock rear shock mounts
- or just replace the stock broken shock and move on - least costly.

What do folks think? I'm open to ideas but want to focus on my road trip ride and not lowering more than say .5.

Thanks

 

[Paul McWhiskey]

If your primary consideration is road trip comfort your best bet might be to replace the shocks and be done. Why lower the car if you are not seeking performance gains? It might be for appearance, but there is a good chance that you will degrade ride quality. I see no point in spending double or more money to be unsatisfied with the result. I think that you know what to do.

 

[obgod3]

If your primary consideration is road trip comfort your best bet might be to replace the shocks and be done. Why lower the car if you are not seeking performance gains? It might be for appearance, but there is a good chance that you will degrade ride quality. I see no point in spending double or more money to be unsatisfied with the result. I think that you know what to do.

Yeh I am thinking about that, shop says the PP1 shocks are shit, ive heard the same here, so does it make sense at 47K to replace the shocks and struts only (Steeda), If im in the wrong thread for this let me know.

 

[Paul McWhiskey]

If I had a shock leak I would replace them all. One new shock and the rest worn for ride quality does no make sense to me.