Spitballing thoughts

[DB83]

Would a set of Comp Stage 1 cams with an F150 manifold work?
If i was only looking for around 440 ish rwhp, and only revving to stockish numbers, 7200-7300. Wouldn't this combo on paper at least produce the numbers whilst retaining the maximum amount of torque at the same time? I know it would probably be very unrealistic to think you could achieve 440 hp and 440 tq. But it would be interesting to see how close to it you could get,

I'm talking with the usual add-ons of course, exhaust, headers, intake, etc.

Any thoughts?

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[Ronnoc]

Would a set of Comp Stage 1 cams with an F150 manifold work?
If i was only looking for around 440 ish rwhp, and only revving to stockish numbers, 7200-7300. Wouldn't this combo on paper at least produce the numbers whilst retaining the maximum amount of torque at the same time? I know it would probably be very unrealistic to think you could achieve 440 hp and 440 tq. But it would be interesting to see how close to it you could get,

I'm talking with the usual add-ons of course, exhaust, headers, intake, etc.

Any thoughts?

To me it makes no sense to shell out the cash for cams, top end power. Then backtrack that work with a restrictive manifold.

 

[ManBearPig]

I would think you’d better with stock cams and f150 manifold than aftermarket cams with the truck manifold.

I have gone back and forth several times on which manifold to go with. I’ve decided my stock 16 is the best bet for me. With a JLT intake and longtubes it pulls plenty hard up top but I don’t have to sacrifice anything at all down low. I think the 15-17 manifold is a good compromise between the f150 and the 18 manifold.

 

[Nuked]

5.2 bottom end with 12.5:1 compression and run E85

To get legit TQ NA you need more displacement and/or higher compression.

 

[DB83]

@Nuked i presume your numbers are on E85?
Unfortunately i don't have the luxury of E85.

@Ronnoc I hear ya. But that's why i tought the stage 1 cams would be best because they have the lowest rpm range therefore the F150 manifold wouldn't be restricting it as much as with the stage 3 cams for example. You would still gain 90% of the power the cams could give, but still gain all the torque of the F150 manifold.

Also, i'm talking hypothetical scenarios here, and don't want to bring money or FI into the equation.

 

[Ronnoc]

@Nuked i presume your numbers are on E85?
Unfortunately i don't have the luxury of E85.

@Ronnoc I hear ya. But that's why i tought the stage 1 cams would be best because they have the lowest rpm range therefore the F150 manifold wouldn't be restricting it as much as with the stage 3 cams for example. You would still gain 90% of the power the cams could give, but still gain all the torque of the F150 manifold.

Also, i'm talking hypothetical scenarios here, and don't want to bring money or FI into the equation.

Hypotheticals aside.. When modding you want to combine parts that compliment each other. Even Stage 1 cams are gonna move your power up top so you want to take advantage of that with other parts that would compliment that, like an 18/gt350 mani. It is never effective to do the opposite in trying to find a compromise by adding a part that does one thing well, and another that does something else well, trying to hit the sweet spot in the middle.

 

[DB83]

I hear what you're saying, but at the same time i don't think things have to go in same direction to complement each other. Yes a GT350 manifold will give you even more power, but at the expense of losing even more torque down low.
With an F150 manifold i feel the power gained by the cams would remain at a plateau or perhaps even drop a tiny bit, but the gain in torque would be greater than the power lost netting you an overall larger power and torque curve.

 

[Nuked]

Your not going to achieve an equal hp/tq number on a Coyote NA. Not enough displacement to get the TQ up on par with the hp that the high flowing heads provide. I mean you could possibly shoot for a TQ number then "detune" it up top to keep the numbers equal, but what would be the point.

The F150 manifold is going to choke the engine after 6000-6500 rpms (too lazy to look exact number rpm up). No matter what cams you choose, the intake manifold then becomes a restriction at that point. For what you are describing the stock 15-17 manifold is probably your best bet and work around that.

Yes, my numbers are were on E85, however it was not showing anymore timing than on pump gas up top.

 

[CrashOverride]

These guys are right. The only cams I know of that increase low end torque are towing/RV cams and they do so by reducing life (And probably less overlap as well). People like to ding the coyote because it is "low" (Their words not mine) on torque. It's not - actually, it's quite high for the cubes it has. Manifold length, like cams, mostly is about changing the resonance frequency so that you get >100% VE at certain RPM points. That's why we have the butterfly valves in the intake manifold - to essentially get a "low" torque peak and a "high" torque peak. Very, very smart technology (Granted if you have a blower, not really a factor as far as I'm concerned). So with your cam, you are moving the torque peak to the right (HP = Torque * RPM / 5252). By moving the torque peak to the right, your engine is spinning faster, so you make more total HP. Great for certain applications (Including bragging) but if you get too crazy, daily driving is not fun unless you zing the engine.

The F150 manifold has long runners, which moves the torque to the left, which = less HP. Why do it? Because trucks need pulling power and don't want to rev the snot out of the engine to get it (Although you can if you want in 4WD LO). So by mixing your parts, you might not move the torque peak much from the stock manifold, and you might get a tad bit higher torque, but the time and money would be spent practically anywhere else.

Not the answer you want to hear, but I'm being realistic here. If you want more "torque" (At the wheels) then the best/cheapest is smaller diameter tires (With speedo correction) or shorter gears. If you want to keep your factory gears, and you have an auto, increase the stall of the convertor. Otherwise to get any appreciable torque gains, you will need either big cubes (very expensive, small(er) return on $), boost, or nitrous.

 

[AlmostFamous]

Your not going to achieve an equal hp/tq number on a Coyote NA. Not enough displacement to get the TQ up on par with the hp that the high flowing heads provide.

That’s not true. Every F150 5.0L, and especially the 2018-2019’s are producing more torque than horsepower.

 

[Nuked]

That’s not true. Every F150 5.0L, and especially the 2018-2019’s are producing more torque than horsepower.

Meaningful hp/tq numbers is how I should have worded it. Sure the F150 is making more TQ and less HP than the Mustang variant because of cams and the intake manifold. But for what I would consider performance wise in a Mustang that is essentially detuning it.

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