Speaker upgrade question

[Cashley]

Looking to upgrade all the speakers, but I'm not sure whether to go 2 way/3 way or component. I'm not an audio guy, so I could use some help pointing me in the right direction.

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[blackk3389]

I too would like to replace all the speakers. Not the system. Seems a lubey at the dealer blew out one of my speakers on passenger side. I have several mustangs and vehicles so I did not notice it until this week. Have the pioneer sub on its way. But want to do all the speakers. And should I just disable front center dash speaker?

 

[DM_BK]

I think you will start getting 2 similar types of responses: stereo upgrades without sound deadening/treatment is pointless; and what is your budget. This will determine suggestions regarding 2 or 3 way system and component choices.

 

[Cashley]

I dont have a budget on this project

 

[Joe Gonsalves]

Do you want a straight 1 to 1 replacement speakers or is a little modification ok? Is your car a 9 speaker or 12? As pointed out sound deadening is important, especially the doors.

 

[blackk3389]

Do you want a straight 1 to 1 replacement speakers or is a little modification ok? Is your car a 9 speaker or 12? As pointed out sound deadening is important, especially the doors.

I have the Pioneer sub on its way. Passenger door speaker blew up. Want a 1 to 1 replace ment of speakers. Only drive this car a couple times a month. Don't to go crazy just replace with decent speakers that will last. I am No audiologist. Don't even know the difference between 2,3 way or component. I am assuming ours is component?

 

[Joe Gonsalves]

I have the Pioneer sub on its way. Passenger door speaker blew up. Want a 1 to 1 replace ment of speakers. Only drive this car a couple times a month. Don't to go crazy just replace with decent speakers that will last. I am No audiologist. Don't even know the difference between 2,3 way or component. I am assuming ours is component?

https://www.americanmuscle.com/powe...omponent-speaker-front-door-max-oe65c-fd.html

These drop right in. Reviews are good. I personally have not used them. I went with the little modification route.

 

[DM_BK]

There are Morel speakers that should fit right in. There is also Focal ASE line of direct replacement speakers, but their tweeters may sound too harsh without any adjustment. Take a look at Crutchfield.com

 

[CrazyHippie]

My question is:
Is the signal sent from the B&O unit to the rear deck speakers filtered or is it the full range of available frequencies? Those two speakers are classified as woofers, (I think) and are the worst sounding speakers that I've ever heard. If the cause of the extreme muddiness is that the mids and highs are filtered by the head unit, upgrading speakers will be a waste of time and money. Does anyone have insight on this?

 

[Gregs24]

My question is:
Is the signal sent from the B&O unit to the rear deck speakers filtered or is it the full range of available frequencies? Those two speakers are classified as woofers, (I think) and are the worst sounding speakers that I've ever heard. If the cause of the extreme muddiness is that the mids and highs are filtered by the head unit, upgrading speakers will be a waste of time and money. Does anyone have insight on this?

The rear deck speakers are ruined by the awful sub. If you change the sub to the Pioneer as many have done the rear speakers clean up. There is just so much uncontrolled boom from the cheap sub.

 

[Joe Gonsalves]

Total agreement on the OEM subwoofer, it is the source of the poor muddy boomy bass in the car. I did not go with the Pioneer driver as suggested, I used the Redline driver. It plays louder with less power than the Pioneer. I'm very happy with it. But there are also a lot of members on here that are happy with the Pioneer. So I don't think the brand of driver matters as much as getting a good quality driver in the box. Search this forum and you'll find plenty of threads on upgrading the subwoofer in the B&O, especially which drivers fit within the OEM enclosure, there are not that many. As far as the rear deck speakers go, they are influenced by the DSP's stereo vs surround modes. In stereo the rear deck speakers only add fill and the sound stage is in the front. If you fade all the way to the rear they do sound like crap, just middle frequencies I guess. In surround mode they become more active and deliver a more pleasing sound. And the sound stage moves to the center of the car. I prefer stereo mode now that I disconnected the dash's center speaker. I fade slightly forward and don't really hear the rear speakers. Good speaker selection up front is important, and I would not bother with the rears. They are not worth it if you are staying with the OEM DSP and amps as I did. My experience has been, upgrade the A pillar tweeters, they make the most impact. Next the 3.5" midranges in the upper doors, they can add more clarity. The woofers in the lower doors are not all that bad really, once you upgrade the trunk's subwoofer, the bass is so much better so I left them for now. Add sound deadening to the doors and the subwoofer enclosure. Also disconnect the center dash speaker, it cleans up the midrange and highs.

 

[blackk3389]

Can you tell me what you went with for the doors. All 3 speakers if you did all 3?

 

[Joe Gonsalves]

Can you tell me what you went with for the doors. All 3 speakers if you did all 3?

See this write up I did.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/b-o-10-sub-replacement-guide.148813/post-4327405

 

[CrazyHippie]

Total agreement on the OEM subwoofer, it is the source of the poor muddy boomy bass in the car. I did not go with the Pioneer driver as suggested, I used the Redline driver. It plays louder with less power than the Pioneer. I'm very happy with it. But there are also a lot of members on here that are happy with the Pioneer. So I don't think the brand of driver matters as much as getting a good quality driver in the box. Search this forum and you'll find plenty of threads on upgrading the subwoofer in the B&O, especially which drivers fit within the OEM enclosure, there are not that many. As far as the rear deck speakers go, they are influenced by the DSP's stereo vs surround modes. In stereo the rear deck speakers only add fill and the sound stage is in the front. If you fade all the way to the rear they do sound like crap, just middle frequencies I guess. In surround mode they become more active and deliver a more pleasing sound. And the sound stage moves to the center of the car. I prefer stereo mode now that I disconnected the dash's center speaker. I fade slightly forward and don't really hear the rear speakers. Good speaker selection up front is important, and I would not bother with the rears. They are not worth it if you are staying with the OEM DSP and amps as I did. My experience has been, upgrade the A pillar tweeters, they make the most impact. Next the 3.5" midranges in the upper doors, they can add more clarity. The woofers in the lower doors are not all that bad really, once you upgrade the trunk's subwoofer, the bass is so much better so I left them for now. Add sound deadening to the doors and the subwoofer enclosure. Also disconnect the center dash speaker, it cleans up the midrange and highs.

Yep, I went with a JBL sub. So the rear decks do not receive the full frequency range? That's what I thought. Upgrading to coaxials, for example, wouldn't help then. Very strange B&O design. I like a rearward biased sound stage and the B&O is definitely the opposite. Thanks!

 

[Gregs24]

Yep, I went with a JBL sub. So the rear decks do not receive the full frequency range? That's what I thought. Upgrading to coaxials, for example, wouldn't help then. Very strange B&O design. I like a rearward biased sound stage and the B&O is definitely the opposite. Thanks!

Your ears point forwards which is where the majority of the sound should come from!

Just swapping speakers may not have the desired effect in any case as you may lose the frequency balance of the oem setup.

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