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UserName

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At present, yes I’m using just stock power without the Morel crossovers. The plan is to add a processor and bypass the stock amp plus add a sub as well as wire in the crossovers. As for using a 4” midrange, my guess is it won’t fit but that really depends upon how much work you’re willing to do to make room for it. Even with my 3.5” driver there was a slight height issue I had to deal with to keep the door panel from contacting the speaker.
When you install the DSP, it will take the place of the crossovers. Those Morels will get down with more power, I think you’ll be happy. Good luck.
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ean611

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So, to add to this thread, I'm going to try something "crazy". Just ordered
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/molex/34729-0160/?qs=1/kFHMS5B/hnocEnrlw0pQ==&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/molex/34690-0160/?qs=uuFyUi8kYTVGdyq6swEIUg==&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/molex/34803-3212-loose-piece/?qs=8%2bu/V6/T1OoXFsCHl9DAmA==&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD

Got these out of another thread here. This will allow me to solder together a T harness to the factory amplifier from the Sync 3 radio. (Note: I'm on 2016 Shaker Pro).

What I typically see folks do, use something like this or the DSR1 to intercept the RCAs. What I'm planning on doing: Using the T-Harness to create an in/out with RCAs, so it's a "pass through" connector for all wires, except the 8 wires (4 pairs) for the line level inputs. I'm going to route them to RCAs on both sides, and run them through a DSR1.

This way, I'll have cut no factory wires, and I'll have DSP control over the factory radio.

Drawbacks:
I will not have control over the center channel.
I will not have independent control over the sub channel - I may be able to fix this later, as the sub output from the Shaker Pro amp is listed as line level, and I could intercept it in the same way and run it through the DSR1.

Now, This could be a total flop of a project, and I'll end up finding some amps / speakers later, but for the low cost of parts plus a DSR1, I figured I'd give this a shot. Plus, it gives me an excuse to get my RTA gear out of mothballs (haven't tuned a car in a few years).

EDIT:
If I get speakers for Stock Amp, I'd probably do:
Hybrid Audio U6V2 in doors (no xover) 2 ohm - Factory speakers are 2 ohm, so this "should be fine" famous last words....
Hybrid Audio U3 midrange (center, doors)
Hybrid Audio U1 Tweeter
Hybrid Audio U2x for midrange/tweeter crossover. (xover point is 5.7kHz, should be good for this)
Rear: Something 6.5 and Coax? Hybrid Audio Mirus maybe.
Sub would be trivial to replace amp and sub using Shaker pro box. Seen folks on this forum do it using factory wiring or close to it. Factory sub has 20A of power available to it.
 

UserName

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So, to add to this thread, I'm going to try something "crazy". Just ordered
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/molex/34729-0160/?qs=1/kFHMS5B/hnocEnrlw0pQ==&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/molex/34690-0160/?qs=uuFyUi8kYTVGdyq6swEIUg==&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/molex/34803-3212-loose-piece/?qs=8%2bu/V6/T1OoXFsCHl9DAmA==&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD

Got these out of another thread here. This will allow me to solder together a T harness to the factory amplifier from the Sync 3 radio. (Note: I'm on 2016 Shaker Pro).

What I typically see folks do, use something like this or the DSR1 to intercept the RCAs. What I'm planning on doing: Using the T-Harness to create an in/out with RCAs, so it's a "pass through" connector for all wires, except the 8 wires (4 pairs) for the line level inputs. I'm going to route them to RCAs on both sides, and run them through a DSR1.

This way, I'll have cut no factory wires, and I'll have DSP control over the factory radio.

Drawbacks:
I will not have control over the center channel.
I will not have independent control over the sub channel - I may be able to fix this later, as the sub output from the Shaker Pro amp is listed as line level, and I could intercept it in the same way and run it through the DSR1.

Now, This could be a total flop of a project, and I'll end up finding some amps / speakers later, but for the low cost of parts plus a DSR1, I figured I'd give this a shot. Plus, it gives me an excuse to get my RTA gear out of mothballs (haven't tuned a car in a few years).

EDIT:
If I get speakers for Stock Amp, I'd probably do:
Hybrid Audio U6V2 in doors (no xover) 2 ohm - Factory speakers are 2 ohm, so this "should be fine" famous last words....
Hybrid Audio U3 midrange (center, doors)
Hybrid Audio U1 Tweeter
Hybrid Audio U2x for midrange/tweeter crossover. (xover point is 5.7kHz, should be good for this)
Rear: Something 6.5 and Coax? Hybrid Audio Mirus maybe.
Sub would be trivial to replace amp and sub using Shaker pro box. Seen folks on this forum do it using factory wiring or close to it. Factory sub has 20A of power available to it.

If you aren’t stuck with the dsr1, there are other dsp units that have external controls for master and sub volume. I use the Helix Director for this purpose. This also allows you to switch between multiple tunes. Mosconi has a similar device too.
 

ean611

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If you aren’t stuck with the dsr1, there are other dsp units that have external controls for master and sub volume. I use the Helix Director for this purpose. This also allows you to switch between multiple tunes. Mosconi has a similar device too.
I'm interested in the MSR1 because it's a 3sixty.3 for less $. It has 31 bands parametric eq per output channel with multiple input channels. It is what I need in theory.
 

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I'm interested in the MSR1 because it's a 3sixty.3 for less $. It has 31 bands parametric eq per output channel with multiple input channels. It is what I need in theory.
If I’m looking at the same processor you are, it has 8 channels of output. You will have to give up the rear and center speakers to make it work with a three way front stage and a subwoofer.
 

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If I’m looking at the same processor you are, it has 8 channels of output. You will have to give up the rear and center speakers to make it work with a three way front stage and a subwoofer.
Yes, the DSR1 is limiting in a few ways, but it's cheap. The main one is that it's a 7 channel, not 8 like the marketing copy says it is. It can do 6 full range channels and a subwoofer.

I'm interested in using it to just do 4 channel, mainly using the OEM amplifier, EQ the audio before it gets there. DSR1 will handle that fine. If I was going to go crazy, and retain the center channel, I'd do this for amp channels:

Center
Front Left
Front Left Door
Front Right
Front Right Door
Rear Left
Rear Right
Subwoofer

This would be 8 channels, which the DSR1 can't handle. I'd probably sacrifice the center in this case. That being said, this shows that I would not bi amp the tweeter vs midrange. I've measured the path lengths, and there is no benefit that I can measure for time alignment to give the midrange driver and tweeter separate amplifier channels. I would use something like a Hybrid Audio setup (probably), which uses passive crossovers in the 5.2-5.7KHz area.

There aren't really any processors that do more than 7 channels that I can find, most that say 8 mean 7+sub, and treat the last two channels differently as they assume you're using a mono sub-woofer for it. If I want to retain everything, I'd probably stick with the DSR1 and then go with amps with built in DSP like the Kicker 42IQ500.4 or JL Audio VX series, adding more control for extra channels, as I'd only need an extra delay line for a couple of channels over that, and could make it work.
 

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ean611

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UserName

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Fair enough, but we're talking about 4-6x the price for those. If you're not trying to use the factory amp, the Maestro DSR1 kit plus a JL VX amp can effectively give you enough channels of amp + DSP with significantly easier install / config for most people.
They are not cheap but they are awesome and believe it or not, still on the affordable part of the spectrum compared to one of these.

https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/brax/processors/dsp


I think going through the effort to put in a dsp and new speakers deserves saving up just a little more and do some amps too. An all in one unit is a perfect compromise for ease of installation and potential cost savings. The cool thing about car audio is that everyone has different requirements and taste.
 

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ean611

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They are not cheap but they are awesome and believe it or not, still on the affordable part of the spectrum compared to one of these.

https://www.audiotec-fischer.de/en/brax/processors/dsp


I think going through the effort to put in a dsp and new speakers deserves saving up just a little more and do some amps too. An all in one unit is a perfect compromise for ease of installation and potential cost savings. The cool thing about car audio is that everyone has different requirements and taste.
I agree completely.

For me it's not about the money, although I don't mind getting a decent DSP for less. I've built and tuned SQ competition winning systems before. For me, using a DSR1 into the stock amp and speakers is a challenge. For someone that can solder and tune, that's a lot of fun.
 
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When you install the DSP, it will take the place of the crossovers. Those Morels will get down with more power, I think you’ll be happy. Good luck.
Does it have to replace the crossover? I would rather use a 5 channel amp. Then I can use the Morel provided crossover for the 3-way fronts as a single channel each, and then send a more full channel to the rears for the 3rd and 4th channel, 5th channel would obvi be the sub.
 

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Does it have to replace the crossover? I would rather use a 5 channel amp. Then I can use the Morel provided crossover for the 3-way fronts as a single channel each, and then send a more full channel to the rears for the 3rd and 4th channel, 5th channel would obvi be the sub.
I would skip using the DSP if you aren’t going to time align and all the fun stuff as it would be a waste of money. Do the Forescan changes for eq and roll off, and pipe the signal directly to your amp. It will sound just like how nice car stereo sounded before DSPs took over, and that’s not exactly a bad thing.
 

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I'm also going to try this speaker only upgrade. Just ordered Focal Performance 165AS3 3-way component speaker set.
 
 




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