Some results of CAN research

[TexasRebel]

Salvage/flooded S550??? That's a lot of rust... if that image is of an S550.

That's the cheese flavor.

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[Maclay74]

That's the cheese flavor.

Ha-ha, I’ll remember this one

 

[Rock50]

Do you mean this connector in the center of the photo?
Could you please tell me what it does? Can I unplug it, insert two wires and sniff HS-CAN3?

Sorry about the rust though

Yes. Not exactly sure what they are feeding, so I didn't disconnect it, just pushed my connections in from the back of that connector.

 

[ihasnostang]

anyone know about CAN message injection? Maybe this would be easier than constantly sniffing the canbus as others mentioned for data monitoring. I want to turn the fans on high speed without needing a laptop and forscan, i would assume there is 1 CAN message from the PCM to activate HFC, and 1 CAN message to turn it off. I don't know if it would be possible to activate it via forscan while sniffing CAN at the same time, from the same laptop/bluetooth device

 

[TexasRebel]

anyone know about CAN message injection? Maybe this would be easier than constantly sniffing the canbus as others mentioned for data monitoring. I want to turn the fans on high speed without needing a laptop and forscan, i would assume there is 1 CAN message from the PCM to activate HFC, and 1 CAN message to turn it off. I don't know if it would be possible to activate it via forscan while sniffing CAN at the same time, from the same laptop/bluetooth device

The trick is there is a status message, too. So you can inject a packet to turn the fan on, and the fan may turn on, but if the PCM doesn't want the fan on and sees it on, it will immediately turn it back off.

To accomplish this, you would have to clone the fan and put it on a separate network. The cloning device would have to act like and respond like the fan is expected to while providing the fan false data.

 

[ORRadtech]

They have there own power source so I can turn them on and off with out issue from the app but they also have a trigger wire tied into the interior lighting. When ever I open my doors, unlock the car the leds come on with interior lights. This is when they flicker on and off. If I could make the interior lights go on and off instantly it would solve my problem.

Try using the trigger signal to activate the relay and supply the relay with its own, separate 12v supply for the LEDs.

 

[Zrussian13]

Try using the trigger signal to activate the relay and supply the relay with its own, separate 12v supply for the LEDs.

Not a bad idea but I'm not sure if that would work. They already have their own 12v supply. When the interior lights trigger, it turns them on but if I ran a relay I'm not sure how I'd use them when my interior lights are off because the relay wouldnt be energized. Or am I missing something?

 

[ORRadtech]

Not a bad idea but I'm not sure if that would work. They already have their own 12v supply. When the interior lights trigger, it turns them on but if I ran a relay I'm not sure how I'd use them when my interior lights are off because the relay wouldnt be energized. Or am I missing something?

So, I don't really know. I'd have to try testing some first. The way you described it sounded like the 12v started lower and built up to full voltage. Good question about turning off. Again I'd have to do testing
I was doing some reading on LED flicker and found mention of using capacitors to stop/reduce it. Again, idk as I'd have to test/play with one. It might be worth looking into.

Sorry for the thread hijack...

 

[Zrussian13]

So, I don't really know. I'd have to try testing some first. The way you described it sounded like the 12v started lower and built up to full voltage. Good question about turning off. Again I'd have to do testing
I was doing some reading on LED flicker and found mention of using capacitors to stop/reduce it. Again, idk as I'd have to test/play with one. It might be worth looking into.

Sorry for the thread hijack...

So I'm thinking over your idea some more this afternoon and you might be right. It's the trigger that builds up to 12v and in turn makes the lights flicker while they come on. The relay shouldn't engage until it's close to 12v so maybe using that to trigger the relay which then triggers the 12v I run to trigger the lights will eliminate the flicker...

 

[TexasRebel]

Voltage doesn't ramp up. It's pulse width modulation (PWM). The pulse voltages are always 12v, but the duty cycle begins short and increases until fully on.

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