(SOLVED) Help finding creaking / groaning

[roushed_daily]

Replaced the broken bolt, noise remains.

I have a sound coming from the rear passenger side as well and also a noise and feel as if I'm running over a large pebble with the tire when taking left turns. I am trying to figure out the noise as well. My suspension guy torqued everything to spec on BMR's site for the parts.

I have BMR and stead parts installed as well as a 3.73 Torsen diff:

BMR TR005 - Adjustable Toe Rods
BMR TCA045 - Vertical Links
BMR BK005 - Bearing Kit, Lower Control Arm, Rear

Steeda 555 4443 - Adjustable Diff Bushing Insert Kit, using red inserts
Steeda 555 4438 - IRS Subfram Alignment kit
Steeda 555 4437 - IRS Subfram Bushing Support System

I have talked to Kelly at BMR about this and that's when he recommended making sure my tech tightened everything down to torque specs which we did and I'm still getting the noise.

From inside the car it sounds like its coming from rear passenger side upper corner panel area when it makes the rubbing noise and only does that when I go over bumps while in the road, and the rolling over rock - pebble noise (like a little thunk/pop) happens mainly when I take left turns.

still trying to find the cause of the noise. Wondering if its caused by the adjustable toe rods and knuckle bearing, but the OP here says he replaced that with the ford performance knuckle bearing. I have these bearings as well but haven't installed them yet.

Thank you for this info. The only thing I have that you don't out of that list is the Steeda IRS Subframe Braces - Fastback. That would be really easy to take off, but if you're getting the same noise, I'll concentrate my efforts elsewhere.

Steeda 555 4443 - Adjustable Diff Bushing Insert Kit, using red inserts

^^^^I'm using the black inserts.

I have the same exact vertical links also. How much you want to bet, that's what's making the noise? It's a safe bet since they're straight spherical bushings with no give like a delrim one would. I think I might throw the stocks back in and try again. If that's what it is, I'll try to grease up the metal on metal connection again and put them back in.

I think I might also take the spring out, grease between the coils, grease the top of the isolator boot, and put it back in.

I'll keep you posted.

But I'm really suspicious of that end link.

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[Bluemustang]

Maybe I'm grasping at straws here but check the rear camber arm. I had to have the one on the rear passenger side replaced because the bushing inside it had gone bad. It was causing a creaking noise that was very annoying. The driver side one exhibited it as well and the shop was able to quiet it down using lube.

 

[roushed_daily]

Maybe I'm grasping at straws here but check the rear camber arm. I had to have the one on the rear passenger side replaced because the bushing inside it had gone bad. It was causing a creaking noise that was very annoying. The driver side one exhibited it as well and the shop was able to quiet it down using lube.

Always a good suggestion.

One of the last pieces I was planning on replacing was those camber arms with one from Steeda.

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-billet-non-adjustable-camber-arms-15-17-all.html

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-rear-adjustable-camber-arms-15-16-all-555-4123.html

 

[Bluemustang]

Always a good suggestion.

One of the last pieces I was planning on replacing was those camber arms with one from Steeda.

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-billet-non-adjustable-camber-arms-15-17-all.html

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-rear-adjustable-camber-arms-15-16-all-555-4123.html

I was planning on replacing those as well but right now I'm trying to avoid going overboard lol. I'm adding billet rear shock mounts and MM caster/camber plates this afternoon. If there is anything else I'm gonna to do it will be the camber arms. If it failed once it may fail again. I think lowered cars with aggressive rates put more stress on the OEM components. That or bad installation initially could have caused it.

 

[roushed_daily]

I was planning on replacing those as well but right now I'm trying to avoid going overboard lol. I'm adding billet rear shock mounts and MM caster/camber plates this afternoon. If there is anything else I'm gonna to do it will be the camber arms. If it failed once it may fail again. I think lowered cars with aggressive rates put more stress on the OEM components. That or bad installation initially could have caused it.

Overboard... I know it and once you start putting those stressed on the OEM parts, the parts dealers turn into drug dealers. "Oh you broke your stock bushing???? Well look what I have here..."

 

[Bluemustang]

Overboard... I know it and once you start putting those stressed on the OEM parts, the parts dealers turn into drug dealers. "Oh you broke your stock bushing???? Well look what I have here..."

Hahaha oh well too true my friend. When I first started modding my suspension I didn't realize everything that went into it and what the consequences would be. Once you start slapping aftermarket parts near the OEM parts, there's no way of knowing what will happen. Especially if you've got a lot aftermarket pieces like me. The problem just moves to the least common denominator- hence why I'm getting the shock mounts.

But it's all been fun - and frustrating, at times. But now mostly fun.

 

[roushed_daily]

So of course we have a couple 55 degree days back to back and again the car doesn't make the noise unless it's over 70 degrees and sunny.

So I lifted the car and torqued back to spec the Steeda subframe braces on each side. Some of those bolts definitely needed torquing.

I also loosed the top bolt on the passenger side vertical link, gave it a few love taps on the top with the mini sledge, and torqued back to spec.

Went out for some spirited driving and couldn't really hear anything. But again... temp and sun issue. (Did my first one turn donut in the car. Should have done that with the Pirellis, not the super sports...)

Other thing I forgot to mention is that the I have my rear sway bar set on the rear holes, which is the stiffer of the two settings. I think I'm going to change those to the front holes and take a little stress off the stock end links.

After that, I'm going to take the sub frame braces all the way off. See if that does anything.

After THAT I'm taking it to Ford. They can fuck around with it. That's another reason I bought Ford sway bars and springs so if they try to come back at me with some shit like, "Ohhhh well you have a bunch of aftermarket parts blah blah blah..." I can say, "Yeah fuck face, YOUR aftermarket parts."

Will keep everyone posted.

 

[Bluemustang]

Good luck dude! You will find it. Don't give up you'll get it set right.

 

[roushed_daily]

SOLVED - Quick thing, it eventually started happening on both sides.

After going out in the 70+ degree and sunny day, I waited for it to start making the noise. Rushed home, jacked it up, took the wheels off and loosened the vertical links. Pushing stuff around I could faintly hear the creaking / groaning. I'm using one hand to move stuff around and the other to feel around for the vibration. Turned out to the be the damn BMR Adjustable Rear Toe Links. Specifically the open ball joint at the top connected to the subframe. (Picture should show up under here.) I had a can of white lithium grease, sprayed it all around, wiggled the joint around, sprayed some more, wiggled it around and dropped it.

I ended up spraying the vertical links too because they're straight spherical bushings. (See 2nd picture)

And then nothing but silence as I tore around the back roads. Holy hell is it a beautiful thing.

Unless I missed something in the instructions for those toe links, having to keep greasing them myself could turn out to be a little annoying, but I'm just happy I found it.

 

[Bluemustang]

Yes! Success. Congrats buddy

 

[Laztug]

:clap2:

 

[roushed_daily]

Thank you, thank you. *bow*

Anyone recommend a better lube solution for a heim ball joint than white lithium?

I found this stuff, but have no experience with it.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jgr-50090?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-driven-racing-oil&gclid=Cj0KEQjwxPbHBRCdxJLF3qen3dYBEiQAMRyxS_y_MTJI_ByuUosVKKYho_y4rDzknAQUhq7unfIzAbAaAsF_8P8HAQ

 

[jbailer]

How are the toe links supposed to be greased?

 

[roushed_daily]

How are the toe links supposed to be greased?

Wish I knew! Nothing I read in the marketing or install when I purchased and installed them ever said they'd have to be greased.

I'm thinking the stuff I posted a couple replies up should be good to have on hand.

I'll see how long the white lithium lasts before spending money on anything else.

Now I'm just tired...

 

[Ronstar]

OK, well as you found out from greasing it and total silence, I spoke to Kelly today at BMR about this, and basically suggested the same thing you just did.

He said that these can get contaminated with foreign material when its rains etc, and to grease them with Ams Oil MP Heavy Duty or equivalent greasing oil. So I am going to try that when I have time.

Ill let you know if this solves my issue as well, however from your and what Kelly suggested, I think it will.

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