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K4fxd

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The ECU has to know the firing order. If it detects a misfire or a knock sensor event, it has to know which cylinder is which.
The computer does not care what actual cylinder is firing. If it detects knock on the 3rd cylinder in the order it dose not matter what the order is.

EDIT. For easier diagnostics, yes it is nice to change the table you referenced but it is not necessary for the engine to run and run properly.
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K4fxd

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JAJ

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The computer does not care what actual cylinder is firing. If it detects knock on the 3rd cylinder in the order it dose not matter what the order is.

EDIT. For easier diagnostics, yes it is nice to change the table you referenced but it is not necessary for the engine to run and run properly.
There are two knock sensors - one per bank. The ECU only listens to one at a time based on firing order. The Coyote and Voodoo firing order is the same from a bank perspective - RLRL - for the first four firings. For the second four firings, they are exactly opposite - Voodoo continues with RLRL but the Coyote switches to LRLR. A Voodoo ECU running a CPC engine without reprogramming will listen to the wrong knock sensor 50% of the time. If you don't care that the engine could blow up, then it doesn't matter.
 

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The ECU has to know the firing order. If it detects a misfire or a knock sensor event, it has to know which cylinder is which. There's a table in the ECU for that, and it has to be reprogrammed.
The factory GT350 engine harness is actually "re-pinned" from the coyote harness. I suspect that the firing order tables are the same.
 

JAJ

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The factory GT350 engine harness is actually "re-pinned" from the coyote harness. I suspect that the firing order tables are the same.
This debate came up on TMO a year or two back and I was curious, so I pulled up a Coyote firing order table and a Voodoo table in my SCT Advantage. They were different. I tried to bring it up again just now to confirm, but unfortunately, I'm on a new computer and SCT seems to have problems with reading the dongle on Win 11.
 

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K4fxd

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GT350 1 5 4 8 3 7 2 6
Coyote 1 5 4 8 6 3 7 2

I thought the knock sensors are in stereo, but I could be wrong.
 

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If you're wanting to go CPC, just buy a new built block from FFRE, MPR, L&M, RPG, TKM, MMR, etc. (5.2 gen 3 block with new forged CPC crank and then the rest of the assembly as to your choosing)

You can swap to a set of coyote grinds into your GT350 heads and either buy a new computer or modify the GT350 harness for the firing order (as simple swapping a couple of injector bank order and coil connectors).

Then you can keep everything else, heads, all the other supporting elements on the car.

A swap to a CPC built motor would be much cheaper than overpaying for a FR crate motor. I suppose you could piecemeal sell a bunch of your existing voodoo parts to bring the cost down. But part of the cost of a new crate motor is your paying for things like heads, timing covers, coils, injectors, balancer, intake, valve covers, pan, water pump, etc, etc that's all probably perfectly viable on your car.
 

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I thought the knock sensors are in stereo, but I could be wrong.
The gen 1 voodoo only has 2. The Predator block has additional provisions, and I know they went to more than that on the gen3 coyote but not sure if the gen 2 voodoos have more than 1 per bank.
 

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This debate came up on TMO a year or two back and I was curious, so I pulled up a Coyote firing order table and a Voodoo table in my SCT Advantage. They were different. I tried to bring it up again just now to confirm, but unfortunately, I'm on a new computer and SCT seems to have problems with reading the dongle on Win 11.
Couldn't one just trick the computer by rearranging 4 of the coil connectors and injector connectors (with a CPC crank and cams)?

I think most of the voodoo tune parameters are by bank so you'd have to just mentally keep note of which cylinders are which (for DTCs) but otherwise, the computer wouldn't know the difference if you left the firing order the same but physically changed the harness.
 

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If the option was to own a GT350 without the FPC - I think i'd just move on to something else...
Sure, you can enjoy a hotrod that you build yourself and with all the 350 supporting gear, it would run great - but IMO, some of the magic is just lost at that point. I'm not a purist or anything but it's like messing with peanut butter and jelly... You're not replacing that peanut butter with anything better ;)
 

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Strokerswild

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5.2 Aluminator would be my pick here, with a GT350 intake if the CJ wouldn't fit.
 

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Couldn't one just trick the computer by rearranging 4 of the coil connectors and injector connectors (with a CPC crank and cams)?

I think most of the voodoo tune parameters are by bank so you'd have to just mentally keep note of which cylinders are which (for DTCs) but otherwise, the computer wouldn't know the difference if you left the firing order the same but physically changed the harness.
You can get the engine to run by shuffling the coil connectors and injectors. Where the problem comes in is that the knock sensors are one-per-bank on the early Coyote and on the Voodoo. The ECU "listens" to each one in turn based on which bank the next cylinder fires in. It uses a very sophisticated bit of signal processing to single out the signature frequencies that arise with knock and that are different than the cacophony of other noises in the engine's block structure. If a cylinder fires on the right bank while the ECU is listening to the left bank, it's likely to miss the correct signals for knock.

I got my Advantage III (SCT tuning) setup up and running again, and sure enough, the Voodoo ECU's Firing Order table has the Voodoo firing order in it. It's R-L-R-L-R-L-R-L. I don't have access to the Coyote firing order any more, but I do have the 5.8 liter GT500 firing order, which is, no surprise, R-L-R-L-L-R-L-R. I know it's not the same as a Coyote, but the point is that the ECU tables are different and the Firing Order table actually has the engine's firing order loaded into it. If you're switching from FPC to CPC, you have to edit that table.
 

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If the option was to own a GT350 without the FPC - I think i'd just move on to something else...
Sure, you can enjoy a hotrod that you build yourself and with all the 350 supporting gear, it would run great - but IMO, some of the magic is just lost at that point. I'm not a purist or anything but it's like messing with peanut butter and jelly... You're not replacing that peanut butter with anything better ;)
I agree. I would either modify a Mustang GT or just go with a new Mach 1.
 

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If the option was to own a GT350 without the FPC - I think i'd just move on to something else...
Sure, you can enjoy a hotrod that you build yourself and with all the 350 supporting gear, it would run great - but IMO, some of the magic is just lost at that point. I'm not a purist or anything but it's like messing with peanut butter and jelly... You're not replacing that peanut butter with anything better ;)
I agree the FPC is very cool.

It seems like a very personal choice and everyone here might do it differently. Money no object I'm sure you could build a Voodoo FPC version of the aluminator 5.2XS and make the extra 60 HP. It would probably be cheaper than buying an aluminator outright and it would keep the FPC. It might not meet emissions in some states that check emissions.
 

stanglife

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I agree the FPC is very cool.

It seems like a very personal choice and everyone here might do it differently. Money no object I'm sure you could build a Voodoo FPC version of the aluminator 5.2XS and make the extra 60 HP. It would probably be cheaper than buying an aluminator outright and it would keep the FPC. It might not meet emissions in some states that check emissions.
Had more time to think about this - I think if someone was leaning to CPC build to replace a FPC in a 350 - I'd seriously weigh the difference between that build and selling the car outright and buying a Mach 1 with a warranty.

If this question was regarding a 350R - no question, it would have to be a FPC or bust.
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