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So, steppin’ out?

Bulldog9

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I'm totally out of it when people laugh and scream at something that could kill someone. My friend died in a Hemi Challenger years ago not knowing how. Not to be a downer but the guy is an idiot and a few other things. Nice car though.
Part of the sickness of our twitterverse voyeur society who view life through a cellphone camera..... Sad and sick.
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WildHorse

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Pro tip: if you’re losing control of your vehicle ALWAYS hold the gas pedal to the floor and jerk the steering wheel back and forth aggressively !
 

ice445

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I believe there is also some physics in this as well regarding people changing the default wheel/tire setup.

Some interesting reading here:
https://www.physlink.com/Education/AskExperts/ae200.cfm

TLDR = wider the tire, the less weight pressing against the road surface technically reducing friction. If you've got too wide a tire for the application, higher risk of hydroplaning (or hitting an uneven spot on the road) and as weight reduces friction, engine spins tire faster breaking traction and not being able to re-establish (like in a WOT scenario)
It's a little more complex than that, the properties of rubber give the advantage to wider tires in most situations, because even tire loading allows the rubber to elastically deform across more road surface, giving more grip. A narrower tire and a wider tire have the same total area of contact patch (the wide tire just has a longer one), BUT, the normal force acting on a narrower tire can reduce the coefficient of friction if the rubber elastically deforms too much. This is especially true on heavy vehicles like ours, because the normal force is greater. Spreading that force over a wider contact patch allows the compound to perform as intended. It's best to think about it as if you were stretching a piece of rubber with your hands, if you have less to start with, you have to stretch it MORE to achieve the same size contact patch, versus if you start with more, you have to stretch it less. That's the basic idea behind why a narrower tire may hit the limits of the rubber more easily. The weight of the vehicle pressing down hasn't changed, so the rubber must stretch more to support the load.

The exception comes in the form of wet performance, since not only does a wider tire take longer to expel water out of the sides of the tread (simply more distance for it to go), but the normal force over the whole patch being lower means that there's less force exterted on the water molecules to get them moved out of the way in the first place. Pretty simple to just not hammer it in the wet though.

tl;dr, wider tires on heavy cars = good, except in situations involving snow or standing water. You don't gain friction, but each tire can do more work for you when the loading is even and the rubber isn't being deformed beyond its limitations.
 

WildHorse

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Sivi70980

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Pro tip: if you’re losing control of your vehicle ALWAYS hold the gas pedal to the floor and jerk the steering wheel back and forth aggressively !
That’s what I do!
 

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Bulldog9

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Short version: "Contact Patch" ;-) Over the years, on cars and motorcycles, I see this vary from car to car, tire to tire. Pressure, width, sidewall, compound, mileage, alignment (camber/caster/toe) all pay a role in the effective grip of the tire.
 

tosha

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Drove 10 speed AT F150 today (not even V8). I totally see now, how a much lighter mustang can lose traction when downshifting from 10th to 6th gear at mid-throttle input - that is exactly what this F150 was doing at highway speeds. It's crazy, it's like me no-lift-shifting from 5 to 2nd, that is some wild sh*t and would be idiotic behavior :crazy:

People with AT's, I don't know how you drive these things now 😄. I think @illadvised is exactly on point here.
 

WildHorse

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Pressure, width, sidewall, compound, mileage, alignment (camber/caster/toe) all pay a role in the effective grip of the tire.
He mentions that. Bottom line: Wider tire = more grip in ideal-ish conditions.
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