Sneak Peak at Girodisc GT350 rear rotors

[Flyhalf]

We have talked on FB in past quite a bit... currently just killed a set of RE71R and am on GY Supercar 3 now... plus a set of super sports for iffy weather. maybe try the 3R next but not sure. The SC3 so far looks like it will last a long time with decent grip.

3R is way faster. 3track days. Maybe 4

Sponsored

 

[jmn444]

3R is way faster. 3track days. Maybe 4

that may be too short lived for me... almost grabbed a set when they were the old build dates but missed it. I got 6 out of RE71R though, but the 1st 4 were very cool weather days... they blistered/peeled on day 6 it was just too hot for them to run full sessions.

 

[Flyhalf]

that may be too short lived for me... almost grabbed a set when they were the old build dates but missed it. I got 6 out of RE71R though, but the 1st 4 were very cool weather days... they blistered/peeled on day 6 it was just too hot for them to run full sessions.

I wrote a post im trackmustangonline forum called the tire thread where i share my experience with different compounds.
Long story short
If you can fit 18
A052 is the way to go. Last very long and grip incredible
For 19
Nt01 is a slower tire but if rotated you camnget 8-10 days.
3R fastest
Re71 is..ok. But not consistent especially with long runs
I got the 2016 3R. I let you know if those old tires are worth it or not.

 

[honeybadger]

We have talked on FB in past quite a bit... currently just killed a set of RE71R and am on GY Supercar 3 now... plus a set of super sports for iffy weather. maybe try the 3R next but not sure. The SC3 so far looks like it will last a long time with decent grip.

Ahh, yes. Forgot since you have a different car in each picture

The SC3 sound like a good tire in that 200 TW range

 

[jmn444]

I wrote a post im trackmustangonline forum called the tire thread where i share my experience with different compounds.
Long story short
If you can fit 18
A052 is the way to go. Last very long and grip incredible
For 19
Nt01 is a slower tire but if rotated you camnget 8-10 days.
3R fastest
Re71 is..ok. But not consistent especially with long runs
I got the 2016 3R. I let you know if those old tires are worth it or not.

Yeah, I didn't care for NT01, tried them last year, and def not going to switch brakes to fit 18's... already have 3 sets of 19's too so commited to the 305/30/19 sizing at this point but i've heard the A052 is awesome from others too. maybe they will fit on my '68!

 

[galaxy]

For the rears, I'm guessing it'll mostly be an upgrade for those of us that are anal and struggling with different rotors front and rear

not gonna lie, having matching rotors IS a selling point even though it just adds to the cost haha.

I'm more likely to try the fronts if the rears are available for sure.


and cosmetically i love them... soooooo

It's an outright deal breaker for me!

 

[Byronj]

What is the advantage to this over stock?

Your are going to save a few pounds. I haven't weighed them and the stock rotors as of yet since its too hot to be in my garage.
They will last anywhere from 2 to 4 times longer than the OEM rotors since they are made out of a better quality steel. They do provide some better cooling but I would have to track with another GT350 with OEM rotors and these to give you exact numbers. Maybe when I get to Sonoma again I will find another GT350 and ask him / her to take temps on theirs for me.

 

[jmn444]

3R is way faster. 3track days. Maybe 4

update, they show as available for 2016 dates again so i grabbed a set, prob will save them for an event in september though but we'll see!

 

[Byronj]

Rotors are installed. Test driving today. If you want to see pics follow the link

https://trackmustangsonline.com/threads/gt350-rear-girodisc-installed.16485/

It was finally cool enough to hang out in my garage this week so I installed the rear Girodisc rotors on the GT350 last night. Bear with me as I write this up and update it. The disc are one pound lighter than stock. They fit perfectly and look better than OEM. I am know that these will last a lot longer than the OEM rotors. My Front Girodisc have been on my car for track use only and have 8 track days on them with plenty of life left in the rings. So I am hoping the rears will last even longer than the fronts which I am sure they will. Right now I am running G-loc R12/R10 on track and GS1 on the street. I was changing my front rotors to the OEM for street duty but now I will just keep using the Girodisc rotors.

I will test drive the car over the weekend and provide an update if needed.

The only tools I used are as follows
BEER of CHOICE
3/4 lug socket
15mm socket
1/2 drive breaker bar
1/2 drive ratchet
extension
Impact gun
Rubber mallet
Torque wrench
Craftsman 41397 tack puller
Brake caliper spreader
Anti seize and / or blue loctite
Hose removal pliers (these act as spreaders to remove the e-brake spring) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DMBZR59/?tag=tmo302-20 OR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079P3LV8M/?tag=tmo302-20

Do the obvious: lift car, remove tire. Also ensure the e-brake is off. If not, I'm sure you'll have a hell of a time trying to get the rotor off.

Rotors are directional so beware of that.

1) You can pull up the e-brake spring by hand and get the hose removal pliers under the metal cylinder. Then as you spread the pliers they will lift the e-brake cable up. I took the tack puller and placed it under the bottom of the metal cylinder and used it to guide the e-brake cable out of the bracket. It can be done other ways but this method seems to work best for me so far. AND if anyone has an easier way please let me know.
2) Remove the two caliper bolts.
3) Remove caliper and support as needed.
4) You might need a rubber mallet to knock the rotor loose. You shouldn't have to bang on it too hard but some tapping in a circular motion will loosen it up if it is stuck.
5) Slide off rear rotor.
6) Install new Girodisc rotor.
7) Take brake caliper spreader and spread the rear pads.
7) Inspect and clean off old loctite on caliper bolts. This is where it is personal preference. You can install anti-seize or loctite. I prefer to use anti-seize and torque to spec. Ford states 81 foot pound. I do 70 foot pounds since I know this will be removed and it's going help the threads last longer in the caliper.
8) Now for the fun part. That damn e-brake spring. Take a few swigs of your beer and cuss at the Ford Engineers that designed this. I took the tack puller and lifted it up as much as I could, then I used the hose removal pliers to lift it more and then get the tack puller completely under the metal cylinder and guided the cable through the slot. Once you get it high enough it will go into place pretty easily. Just make sure the spring stays on the bottom side of the bracket. It wants to come over the top.
9) Install tire and torque to your specs. Ford specs are 150 foots pounds +- 15. I torque mine to 130 foot pounds.

Sponsored