Should I have Walked?

[Sixth]

Thanks for clarifying - that's what I thought... Personally, IDC what the OTD price is, as it doesn't carry any real significance - just like you said.

My negotiated price was $36,701, plus the BS processing and freight of $1,500 brings it to $38,200. Not bad IMO for a GT Premium + PP + 401A + Nav + Premium interior. Add in the $3,300 in State sales tax though and it seems like I'm paying MSRP... :doh:

3.3k in tax isn't bad..that is about 8.7ish%. California is 10% I believe...at least that was what my sales rep was inputting into the calculator when we were working numbers...

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[GoBlues38]

yep. always walk and wait for the dealer to call you back. It is amazing what 4 hours and a customer not in the show room can do to lower the bottom line.

 

[Evolvd]

You can definitely do better. I have a '16 PP with 401A, Redline Interior, and Ruby Red and paid $37,985 (no TTL fees). That is within $100 of X-plan pricing.

 

[Project Whitemare]

dealers have their own rebate programs as well. my dealer also offers recently separated or current military rebates, along with current student or grad rebate. all these rebates can be used together. i am also trying to get the $750 brochure as well. so he should check his dealer website and see what kind of offers they have also. check your surrounding dealers as well.

No.

These aren't something specific to a dealer.

They all have the exact same offerings. These are Ford's incentives, not Dealer Incentives.

Not all of those stack either.

The Student Rebate and the Military Rebate do not stack together. It's one or the other.

No need to check the dealer website, head to Ford.com, scroll to the very bottom and select, "Incentives and Offers". At the bottom, you will see some of the Special Offerings.

There is a list of Potentially Eligible Programs on every vehicle. Your dealer should be going over these with you to see if you qualify for anything in addition to the Public Offerings.

 

[Sixth]

I didn't see those specific incentives on the ford website but I saw it on my dealers website. I probably wasn't clicking through the right link maybe. Also my dealer is in fact combining those incentives for me...could depend on dealer I guess.

No.

These aren't something specific to a dealer.

They all have the exact same offerings. These are Ford's incentives, not Dealer Incentives.

Not all of those stack either.

The Student Rebate and the Military Rebate do not stack together. It's one or the other.

No need to check the dealer website, head to Ford.com, scroll to the very bottom and select, "Incentives and Offers". At the bottom, you will see some of the Special Offerings.

There is a list of Potentially Eligible Programs on every vehicle. Your dealer should be going over these with you to see if you qualify for anything in addition to the Public Offerings.

 

[Five Oh Brian]

Also my dealer is in fact combining those incentives for me...could depend on dealer I guess.

I guarantee you that it does not depend on the dealer. Ford makes the rules on how rebates are applied by dealers, and they audit dealers periodically. College and Military rebates are NOT combinable. And, a few weeks ago, Ford changed the rules on getting the military rebate (and most dealers aren't aware of this change). Customers must now pre-apply for that rebate at www.fordsalutesthosewhoserve.com.

 

[Azzurro]

Negotiate the price first then deal with financing. The price of the car is NOT dependent on what financing you do. That's nonsense. Find another dealer in a larger area. Either San Francisco or Los Angeles.

Email 2-3 dealers and tell them you will pay invoice for the car. Nothing more, nothing less. You can do this on an order, this is what I did. If its on the lot, offer less. Order a Ford Mustang brochure to try & get $750 off.

Mission Federal in San Diego just got me 1.64% for 72 months. You can get a loan on the phone by talking to the right person & signing things by email. I have a contact for you if you need one. Just send me a PM.

 

[Azzurro]

Help me out with this "OTD" stuff. Is that essentially only applicable if you are putting $0 down on your purchase? Why else would someone finance sales tax over 48 to 72 months? I'm only asking because I feel like I'm missing something.

So you can spread the tax out over a long time and don't have to come up with it upfront. Tomorrows dollars are worth less in the future because of inflation. With interest rates so low I use cash flow to pay for everything. I will make far more with my money than I'm paying on my car loan (1.64%) so its a no brainer.

 

[Sixth]

I guarantee you that it does not depend on the dealer. Ford makes the rules on how rebates are applied by dealers, and they audit dealers periodically. College and Military rebates are NOT combinable. And, a few weeks ago, Ford changed the rules on getting the military rebate (and most dealers aren't aware of this change). Customers must now pre-apply for that rebate at www.fordsalutesthosewhoserve.com.

I never said it did depend on the dealer I said it could. The meaning is different...but my dealer did in fact tell me I can combine rebates, that is why I am sharing that here. Dealers aren't always right. We all know that, but I am sharing what my dealer is offering me which may give other people other tools to use when working out their deals...because why not? We are all here to help each other and give ideas on how to get the best deals correct?

 

[jefffrot]

I got $400 under invoice on my new GT CS. Then they took off another $500 for factory rebate the I had a $750 private cash coupon to boot. I also negotiated no dealer "doc" fees. Personally when I buy a car I tell them I'm paying cash so then I can concentrate on the actual car price not the monthly payment. Once you are satisfied on a price, then talk financing. Also if you plan to trade, tell them your not trading so you can deal on the new car first and your trade second. Also I recommend you go to the true car website and see what kind of deals others are getting in your area.

 

[Stangl1fe]

Good Walk!

I paid 31,500 for my automatic 16 gt base with 19" wheel package and 3.55 as the only added options. I think you should be able to hit the 37-38k range.

Try the 25-30th of March they are hungry then. All about moving units so find a dealership who needs the kickback.

 

[bmcgc]

In this day and age Im shocked that so many do not know how to negotiate for a car.

1. Negotiate the price of the car, this includes freight.
2. Apply any incentives.
3. Negotiate the price of the trade, if any.
4. Negotiate financing if necessary.
5. TTL is up to the buyer, the State sets those taxes and fees.

Anyone who pays anything else is foolish. The added BS dealer fees is just that BS.

When the dealer states "dealer retains all incentives" you don't know what they are retaining. Most dealers try and sell you msrp + freight + BS fees + dealer added options, and they retain the incentives.

One of my local Ford dealers adds the $995 paint/fabric/rust protection. I bet they get it most of the time.

Ford has national incentives and sometimes regional incentives. Go online and learn what Ford is offering for your area before you visit the dealer.

I will not do business with a dealer that adds a premium to a car. One of the big conglomerates here adds a second sticker on every car with about 2k of dealer added fees and options. I do not see how they stay in business.

The other big problem I see is that you argue for hours about the selling price of the new car, then you give your old car away for thousands under what its worth. If you are upside down, you stay in a vicious circle that you can never get out of.

Sometimes the smart move is not to buy.

We are buying new as soon as I sell my current car. There is a 4-5k difference between what the dealer will give me and what I will take selling it on my own.

I can wait.

 

[GT_Tommy]

Thanks for all the responses guys! Some great information here. Galpin is a bunch of sharks and the deal they were pushing is a waste of time. My local dealer ended up selling me a car that wasn't even available. Came to an agreement on what I consider a fair price, put me through finance, signed all the docs etc etc...called me the next day just to tell me the car wasn't "available"...WTF?! Basically, the best deal I can find on a for sure IN STOCK car is invoice +TTL and still get the 0% for 60 months. Seems like I need to join MCA or find some incentives if I want to do better. I'm a little burnt out on the BS and the back and fourth, so I may just chill out and wait till the end of the month to see if I can do better.

 

[bmcgc]

Ford will produce more Mustangs than they will sell in 2016. One dealer near me still has 3 2015s on the lot.

Ive been asked to leave dealerships. I don't put up with their BS and some don't like it. Im not rude, but once they figure out that Im not going to budge, and its a waste of time they look for the next sucker.

 

[me and mustang r50]

buy on memorial day weekend

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