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Shopping for cold air intake

gadgtfreek

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I zip tie a bag of ice in front of my snorkel every time I drive somewhere. Real pain in the ass on road trips though...
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NoVaGT

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Nice try, but not true and you know what you can do with the thumb.


Screen Shot 2021-01-09 at 9.36.17 AM.png
Here's the thing, from an engineering stand-point;

The CAI on the right (after-market) feeds into a conical filter. I do not think that the total calculated square inches of filter element is larger than the factor filter element.

But you may have looked into that already? Do you know what the square inches of flowing element are for the two filters?

IMO, the two things that matter are the intake air temperatures (actually lowering them, NOT raising them), and the amount of filtered air going into the engine. The incoming air is the same for both intake systems, since the limiting factor is the snorkel at the grill.

What I also think might be a real benefit, whether you keep the OEM CAI or use an AM CAI, is buying some adhesive backed heat insulating material, and just covering the CAI and intake tube going to the throttle body.

ETA: it would seem to me that the OEM CAI from a GT350 would be perfect, if it fits properly. Since the GT350 revs higher, and therefore the filtration system MUST allow more atmosphere to flow into the TB, that's one that should actually work.

At least it should flow more atmosphere. Whether it keeps IATs as low as the OEM CAI is another question.

But wouldn't that then require a GT350 TB and a tune to accommodate the additional atmospheric flow?
 
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Rapid Red

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Here's the thing, from an engineering stand-point;

The CAI on the right (after-market) feeds into a conical filter. I do not think that the total calculated square inches of filter element is larger than the factor filter element.

But you may have looked into that already? Do you know what the square inches of flowing element are for the two filters?

IMO, the two things that matter are the intake air temperatures (actually lowering them, NOT raising them), and the amount of filtered air going into the engine. The incoming air is the same for both intake systems, since the limiting factor is the snorkel at the grill.

What I also think might be a real benefit, whether you keep the OEM CAI or use an AM CAI, is buying some adhesive backed heat insulating material, and just covering the CAI and intake tube going to the throttle body.

Of course this binging the icing on the cake, bringing it all together.

Screen Shot 2021-01-09 at 9.49.32 AM.png
 
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LkySpade

LkySpade

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Here's the thing, from an engineering stand-point;

The CAI on the right (after-market) feeds into a conical filter. I do not think that the total calculated square inches of filter element is larger than the factor filter element.

But you may have looked into that already? Do you know what the square inches of flowing element are for the two filters?

IMO, the two things that matter are the intake air temperatures (actually lowering them, NOT raising them), and the amount of filtered air going into the engine. The incoming air is the same for both intake systems, since the limiting factor is the snorkel at the grill.

What I also think might be a real benefit, whether you keep the OEM CAI or use an AM CAI, is buying some adhesive backed heat insulating material, and just covering the CAI and intake tube going to the throttle body.
Lol, Jesus. Too technical. Even though your right. Lol, I’m not building a mustang for NASA.
 

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NoVaGT

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Lol, Jesus. Too technical. Even though your right. Lol, I’m not building a mustang for NASA.
O.k......hear me out. Here's the perfect CAI.

1. The snorkel at the grill is changed to allow more atmospheric volume in. This might require a different grill to be installed.

2. Larger filter element, with a material that avoids using oil to not f-up the MAFS.

3. Made from materials that are very heat insulative. Completely closed off under the hood. Totally enclosed. And maybe with another layer of heat reflecting insulation wrapping it.

Then I think you'd have a CAI that actually increases atmospheric flow, AND lowers IATs. To the point that a larger TB and a tune would be required, and therefore more power would actually be made.

And I don't think that would bump the power curves up higher in the rev range. It should increase power all through the rev range. Although I think there are certain times where restricting atmospheric flow actually increases velocity.....dunno.

Where's our damn engineers when I need them??
 
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Mikepol2

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I have been very happy with the no-tune Injen Evolution with the dry filter...

Injen Evolution EVO9202 Dyno.jpg


IMG_2580.JPG
 

NoVaGT

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I have been very happy with the no-tune Injen Evolution with the dry filter...

Injen Evolution EVO9202 Dyno.jpg


IMG_2580.JPG
Dyno runs back-to-back? Same day? Within an hour or two of one another?

And nobody mucked with the plug at the air-box that disables the TC/SC after the first run?
 

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You would also have to buy the tuner in order to download the tune - https://www.steeda.com/steeda-555-3968-s550-pro-flow-power-pack-bdx - here is a package the includes both.

Steeda can also tune the application for you - we are safe, reliable & powerful - https://www.steeda.com/steeda-certified-mustang-custom-tune-96-14.html for a single tune if you have a tuning device.

Let me know if I can help assist further.

TJ
How can you say in the same sentence that it is “street tested” but illegal to use on the street and designed for “ off road only”” ???
Bit hypocritical maybe???
 

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NeedForGreen

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I've had 2 CAI's and here's my 2 cents.
I started with a non tuned Roush that had a cover. I wanted it for looks. I knew it wasn't going to do crap.
Well I did see something.....higher IAT's at any stop. I ended up getting a Ford Performance with a tune so I could keep my warranty. The tune is required because it has a bigger intake tube and a new bigger throttle body. I do see noticeable power increases, but not to the point where you're like this is the best thing ever. I know the tune is where the major changes are coming from. IAT's are stable, sometimes cooler than stock all depending on weather, but not huge differences. I also have a ram air hood so I'm sure IAT's are slightly better than if I still had my stock hood.
I do know a local performance shop likes to use JLT intakes with tunes.
If you're wanting a CAI without a tune just get one that looks best to you and consider IAT's (covered or non)
 

gadgtfreek

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Its odd to me that a FP CAI or JLG (open top) would do any better IAT wise idling than a closed top CAI.

Like I said above, I do see idle temps rise some with the Roush, but I've seen that on other vehicles. As soon as I start moving it drops to generally 4-5 degrees over what the outside air temp is reading on my dash.
 

Mikepol2

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Dyno runs back-to-back? Same day? Within an hour or two of one another?

And nobody mucked with the plug at the air-box that disables the TC/SC after the first run?
The dyno chart is the one provided by Injen. I installed it myself and don't know what TC/SC is. All I know is it feels like it's more responsive.
 

NoVaGT

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Its odd to me that a FP CAI or JLG (open top) would do any better IAT wise idling than a closed top CAI.

Like I said above, I do see idle temps rise some with the Roush, but I've seen that on other vehicles. As soon as I start moving it drops to generally 4-5 degrees over what the outside air temp is reading on my dash.
I had a (brand name redacted) CAI, and it dramatically raised IATs when sitting in traffic. I switched back to the OEM CAI and the IATs dropped nicely while sitting in traffic.

I think the closed top helps a lot.
 

gadgtfreek

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I guess all that being said, my butt dyno doesn't feel any different when it is 50 degrees outside, vs 70 lol. Im sure itd show on a dyno, but these cars are just so darn powerful anyways.
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