Service advancetrac

[zstanny]

Driving home on the highway, go over a significant dip(not a pothole) and right after I get the service advancetrac along with a slew of error codes.
No drive mode select. No hill assist. No pre collision alert. No traction control. No abs.

Let it sit overnight. Drove it today. Cranked. Got all my error messages. Backed out and noticed they were all gone. Then I hear the following. It stopped shortly after the end of the video. Ford can’t see it til next Friday but what are y’all’s thoughts?
Edit: struggling to ge the video to upload. I can feel it in the brake pedal. Also can repeat it after I have started the car. Brakes are fine after this quits. When I slow down to the same speed after it stops during the same drive, it’s not there.

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[MiamiGT350]

This is in your 2021 Mach? A dealer trip is probably best if it's still under warranty.

Have you checked your battery connections? These cars will throw a variety of module codes when there is an issue with the battery and/or connections. Also might be worth a stop at Autozone, Advanced Autoparts, etc to have them check your battery.

Do you have a code scanner? Any codes logged?

 

[BigR4444]

This is a common mustang problem. Had it a while back on mine.
All I ended up doing was replacing a wheel speed sensor... 40 bucks, super easy.
I'll post the link below to the thread I was a part of and how I solved the problem. (Page 4)
My opinion is the wheel speed sensor/tone ring/ or maybe the thrust washer.
Some guys have gone as far as replacing the entire wheel hub.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/service-advancetrac-lights-and-steering-help.109277/

 

[Zrussian13]

I'm betting on wheel bearing. Could be a speed sensor but since you have an audible click I'm going wheel bearing. I had all the same codes when my drivers rear crapped out.

 

[zstanny]

I'm betting on wheel bearing. Could be a speed sensor but since you have an audible click I'm going wheel bearing. I had all the same codes when my drivers rear crapped out.

When did yours crap out? This car has 8500 miles on it

 

[BigR4444]

I just changed my right rear wheel hub myself
2018 gt, 12k miles.
It was a different wheel than the one I changed the sensor on.
And I never got any of those dashboard alerts or problems
I just had a click-click noise when accelerating from a dead stop.
Exactly like this


But yea those bearings can go bad even at low mileage.

 

[Zrussian13]

When did yours crap out? This car has 8500 miles on it

Mine was around 40k miles but when I searched it I found multiple people who had wheel bearings replaced under warranty at way lower mileage. The drivers rear seems to be the most common.

 

[BigR4444]

Yea I just changed my rear hub in July. I heard the noise from the passenger side but I wasn't sure if it was the front or rear.
After a ton of research, everyone who had this problem had it in the rear... like EVERYONE. It was never a front.

First, try to find out what wheel it is.

Put the car in engineer mode;
Could be different for your car, but for me, I just hold down the ok button while starting the car and keep it down till the mode actives.
From there you can scroll thru different tools, until you get to a screen that will show you active codes.
I googled those codes and one of them came up as wheel speed sensor FR, which I took as front right. This whole process was free and took 15 mins and gave me a pretty good idea which wheel was the problem.

If you can find out which wheel it is, $40 for the sensor isn't that big a deal... its fairly easy to swap out too.
If that doesn't solve your problem, it's only cost you $40 and some elbow grease... and then you can start worrying about swapping out the whole hub assembly.

 

[zstanny]

Yea I just changed my rear hub in July. I heard the noise from the passenger side but I wasn't sure if it was the front or rear.
After a ton of research, everyone who had this problem had it in the rear... like EVERYONE. It was never a front.

First, try to find out what wheel it is.

Put the car in engineer mode;
Could be different for your car, but for me, I just hold down the ok button while starting the car and keep it down till the mode actives.
From there you can scroll thru different tools, until you get to a screen that will show you active codes.
I googled those codes and one of them came up as wheel speed sensor FR, which I took as front right. This whole process was free and took 15 mins and gave me a pretty good idea which wheel was the problem.

If you can find out which wheel it is, $40 for the sensor isn't that big a deal... its fairly easy to swap out too.
If that doesn't solve your problem, it's only cost you $40 and some elbow grease... and then you can start worrying about swapping out the whole hub assembly.

Ok good deal. Might give that a go before paying a $200 diagnostic fee at Ford service.

 

[ice445]

It's probably the hub or a failed thrust washer.

 

[geep81]

When did yours crap out? This car has 8500 miles on it

I had a wheel bearing die at about 7k miles.

 

[Zrussian13]

Ok good deal. Might give that a go before paying a $200 diagnostic fee at Ford service.

How old is your car? If it's a wheel bearing it should be covered under the power train warranty.

 

[zstanny]

How old is your car? If it's a wheel bearing it should be covered under the power train warranty.

It’s a 2021 with an October 2021 warranty start. I’m more worried about the dealer service hassle. Gonna be a boomer and not let my driveable car sit with them while if they have to wait on parts.
Have my appointment Friday so we shall see soon.

 

[ice445]

It’s a 2021 with an October 2021 warranty start. I’m more worried about the dealer service hassle. Gonna be a boomer and not let my driveable car sit with them while if they have to wait on parts.
Have my appointment Friday so we shall see soon.

Unfortunately this is how most dealers play it these days. It will sit until they get to it, and then sit again until they can get the parts (which they never have somehow). In my case I was allowed to pick up my car while the parts were en route, but I opted not to because I didn't want to deal with the hassle of dropping it off a second time, lol.

 

[Zrussian13]

It’s a 2021 with an October 2021 warranty start. I’m more worried about the dealer service hassle. Gonna be a boomer and not let my driveable car sit with them while if they have to wait on parts.
Have my appointment Friday so we shall see soon.

When I thought my bearing was the cause I stopped by the dealer. They said no problem warranting it under the power train warranty even though I was tuned on E but they weren't taking appointments. They told me to drop it off and it would take roughly 2 weeks to look at it another week to fix it. I just bought the bearing and did it myself cheap. Didn't miss a day of driving the stang!

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