Rust on wheel hubs

[edunn14]

Ok, looking for thoughts on a thought I had recently when taking off wheels after a wash.

As you can see from the photos, the center of the rotors (the hub? Not sure the exact title for that specific area) has a ton of surface rust that just kinda looks nasty.

Of course, it is cosmetic only and is hidden when the wheel is on. It probably is related to 1) the car spending time in IL with the first two owners and 2) the area holding water after a wash (and presumably also rain)

Would taking a wire wheel to it or some other cleaning method be a pointless endeavor? I would think removing surface rust could only be a positive (unless it's taking off too much material) but I'm not sure.

Just kinda getting an urge to spruce her up a bit. Need to polish the exhaust tips too (not a euphemism)

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[Optimum Performance]

If you think that's bad, don't remove the rotors to look underneath. #1 cause of wheel stud failures. Take it all apart and wire wheel everything, wipe it down with WD-40. Wheel cleaners that contain any level of acid is like driving in the ocean.

 

[robvas]

First time taking wheels off a car, eh?

Edit: that car looks like it's seen some salt by the exhuast and the other brackets etc you an see in the pictures. I'd be more worried about that.

 

[robvas]

Take it all apart and wire wheel everything, wipe it down with WD-40.

Then brush some por15 or eastwood rust protector on it.

 

[jheissjr]

 

[WD Pro]

Not on a mag ride front ... (based on your diagram being the front)

WD

 

[edunn14]

Not on a mag ride front ... (based on your diagram being the front)

WD

Damn I wanted to give my suspension a little hat!

And yes to the car seeing salt, it's in FL now but still some salt in the air. I'd love to get under it someday and get all that surface rust off, but then again a full exhaust would take care of that issue too . . .

 

[Corporate_Rebel]

I hit mine with a die grinder and scotch bright pad and then hose them down with high temp copper anti seize. Not so much an issue for the mustang as it's a summer only car, but really comes in handy on winter beaters in the rust belt. Otherwise you end up with rims seized onto the hubs.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80697-Gasket-Hi-Temp-Adhesive/dp/B000HBNUDQ

 

[LCK22GT]

Otherwise you end up with rims seized onto the hubs.

…. And beating on tires with a sledgehammer

 

[Joe Mac]

Looks like my hubs.

 

[John S]

#1 cause of wheel stud failures.

Your GT4 studs have been on my car for a few years and, so far, winter road salt hasn't attacked them. Where do you draw the line of a good vs bad stud once corrosion becomes visible?

 

[jheissjr]

Not on a mag ride front ... (based on your diagram being the front)

Do you mean the diagram of a mag ride doesn't have a cap?

 

[WD Pro]

Do you mean the diagram of a mag ride doesn't have a cap?

I don't know what the diagrams show, but physically the mag ride 350 fronts don't get a dust cap (5 on your diagram), or even a nut (4 on your diagram) - see OP's photo.

Those parts don't feature on the GT / M1 / 500 mag ride fronts either.

WD

 

[Nightmonkey]

Put some Ovatrol oil on it—it's the best thing you can do.
You can also paint it with rust proof paint.
I expect Ovatrol to last longer...

that car looks like it's seen some salt by the exhuast and the other brackets etc you an see in the pictures. I'd be more worried about that.

That's also what happens when you use corrosive wheel cleaner.

 

[Optimum Performance]

Your GT4 studs have been on my car for a few years and, so far, winter road salt hasn't attacked them. Where do you draw the line of a good vs bad stud once corrosion becomes visible?

Wire Brush and a WD40 Soaked rag. Helps keep things preserved. The rusty hubs cause stud failure because of the rust building up under the rotorhat and hub. The wheel does not clamped properly. Once the wheel runs loose, the studs will be subject to bidirectional forces.

Keep them torqued 135-145 lb/ft.

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