Resonator Delete on OEM Factory Exhaust

[Blu_stallion]

Drone is a product of muffler design / solution not the mid pipe. If you have a setup already that drones some the res delete will accent it but not create it. A muffler setup for no drone won't start to drone because of it, like AWE or Corsa etc. That said, the drone on the oem mufflers is minimal but the tone on oem after res delete was tinny and just awful. I think when I tried it originally soon after the purchase it lasted about a month before I had to scrap it for a full catback just due to that tinniness.

There are some resonated mid pipe options too that would tone it down some but again personally not a fan of the oem mufflers.

Good intel. I was just surprised at how much drone the Borla S-types had considering their known for not droning. I also wonder if the catless long tubes have played a roll in exacerbating the issue.

I'm now on aftermarket valved mufflers with two Vibrant resonators added to the H-pipe and it's definitely better than the S-types with no resonators, even with the valves wide open.

Attaching photos for anyone who cares to see my setup.

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[Vertex]

Question, hasnt doing the resonator delete created a lot of drone for those who've done it? Or is there something built into the Steeda kit everyone is referring to that helps with drone? I have an H pipe and Im on my 3rd set of mufflers because the drone has been pretty bad. I finally added Vibrant resonators and it has helped a lot but not completely eliminated it. I have long tube headers, so maybe they are a major culprit and drone isnt nearly as bad with stock manifolds?

I've had my roush x-pipe in for some 6-7k miles and I love it. Sound honestly didn't change much as far as tone on my car, it just amplified the sound. The only reason I didn't go with an H pipe is I read that there is a factory one somewhere up in the front area. I haven't done much looking yet to find it though I just know I absolutely love how it sounds and always run it in track exhaust. NO drone what so ever at any speed/rpm.

 

[dman918]

I installed the Steeda h-pipe in my 21 with AE and have had no issues. Love the deeper tone after the install.

This vid was very detailed and had a lot of good tips:


Using the smaller straps over the drive shaft to first dry fit the h-pipe, then keep the rear exhaust from dropping after your cuts was really helpful. Keep in mind a lot of water will leak from the exhaust when cutting.

You’ll love the mod!

Thanks so much for these pics. This will help when I install mine. So for the line up, did you basically line the pipe up with the middle of the stock clamp on the front side and then mark to cut what would be the middle of the new clamp? Does that make sense?

 

[Ballistica]

Thanks so much for these pics. This will help when I install mine. So for the line up, did you basically line the pipe up with the middle of the stock clamp on the front side and then mark to cut what would be the middle of the new clamp? Does that make sense?

Yes sir. Kinda guesstimated where the middle of the front clamp was and used that as my starting point. Then lined up the h-pipe with the resonator and used a sharpie to mark the cuts. Used painters tape to make it easier to see the cuts and follow the tape as I cut through the rest of the exhaust in an effort to keep the cuts as straight as possible.

The cuts will be in the middle of the new clamps. It was a fairly straightforward install, just take your time.

A couple of tips I found out in the process of the install that might help you

1. Make sure you have enough clearance under the vehicle if you’re cutting the exhaust on the car. The angle is fairly sharp and with the length of a typical sawzall, you’ll need to make sure you have the rear end high enough so that you can maneuver the tool and make your cuts.

2. Use a small blade on the sawzall. The fuel tank is right next to where you’re making your cuts and it’s easy to lose focus and end up running the tip of the blade through the heat shield.

3. You’ll be surprised at the amount of water that’ll come out of the exhaust when you make your cuts. Enough to drench your sawzall if you aren’t careful. Have a towel handy, start your cut and then stop to let the water drain. Once it’s done, then finish your cut.

4. When you complete your cut, the exhaust going back to the muffler is gonna want to drop. It can cause damage to your exhaust tips and your rear valence. Using the small straps over the drive shaft helped a ton with this.

It’s a fun a rewarding mod. You’ll definitely love it. I’ll work on posting some before and after sound clips for you when I get time later tonight. Feel free to ask any other questions you might have!

 

[geep81]

The only reason I didn't go with an H pipe is I read that there is a factory one somewhere up in the front area.

I would like to see whoever said that point to where it is.

 

[dman918]

Thanks for all the useful information. May rent a pipe cutter for a cleaner cut, but we'll see what I decide. Not installing for a couple weeks.

Yes sir. Kinda guesstimated where the middle of the front clamp was and used that as my starting point. Then lined up the h-pipe with the resonator and used a sharpie to mark the cuts. Used painters tape to make it easier to see the cuts and follow the tape as I cut through the rest of the exhaust in an effort to keep the cuts as straight as possible.

The cuts will be in the middle of the new clamps. It was a fairly straightforward install, just take your time.

A couple of tips I found out in the process of the install that might help you

1. Make sure you have enough clearance under the vehicle if you’re cutting the exhaust on the car. The angle is fairly sharp and with the length of a typical sawzall, you’ll need to make sure you have the rear end high enough so that you can maneuver the tool and make your cuts.

2. Use a small blade on the sawzall. The fuel tank is right next to where you’re making your cuts and it’s easy to lose focus and end up running the tip of the blade through the heat shield.

3. You’ll be surprised at the amount of water that’ll come out of the exhaust when you make your cuts. Enough to drench your sawzall if you aren’t careful. Have a towel handy, start your cut and then stop to let the water drain. Once it’s done, then finish your cut.

4. When you complete your cut, the exhaust going back to the muffler is gonna want to drop. It can cause damage to your exhaust tips and your rear valence. Using the small straps over the drive shaft helped a ton with this

It’s a fun a rewarding mod. You’ll definitely love it. I’ll work on posting some before and after sound clips for you when I get time later tonight. Feel free to ask any other questions you might have!

 

[Toretto]

I have a '21 GT with active.....had a shop made a custom H pipe and after a day with it, I went back and got the resonator put back on. It was a personal thing but I just didn't like the sound (even though I liked the higher volume) plus I noticed that the valves would rattle after having the H pipe on.

 

[WD Pro]

I would like to see whoever said that point to where it is.

This

It does allow for some connection between the pipes, but it’s not a H pipe.

The pipes share an unpacked section of the resonator, but only through perforations.

Then you remove the resonator anyway … lol

WD

 

[The Insomnimaniac]

I have a '21 GT with active.....had a shop made a custom H pipe and after a day with it, I went back and got the resonator put back on. It was a personal thing but I just didn't like the sound (even though I liked the higher volume) plus I noticed that the valves would rattle after having the H pipe on.

What didn’t you like about the sound?

 

[Coosawjack]

When I put my Steeda H-Pipe on my 2019 5.0 vert 6 speed it made the exhaust quite raspy and tinny.......replaced the resonator an hour later and sold the H-Pipe!!

HARD to beat the sounds of Ford OEM "Active Exhaust"!!

 

[Gnatsum21]

Interesting opinions about the aftermarket pipes. I had a Steeda H pipe on my former GT but no AE, I liked it but in the mornings you could only start it in the garage with the door closed. Now with AE things are different and I can tell by the OEM sound with resonator a H pipe is actually overkill. It almost sounds the same when in sports mode, neighbor confirmed not sure what to do..its tempting to put it on.

 

[WD Pro]

Interesting opinions about the aftermarket pipes. I had a Steeda H pipe on my former GT but no AE, I liked it but in the mornings you could only start it in the garage with the door closed. Now with AE things are different and I can tell by the OEM sound with resonator a H pipe is actually overkill. It almost sounds the same when in sports mode, neighbor confirmed not sure what to do..its tempting to put it on.

If you frequently find yourself driving in sport and / or track, I think you will love the active exhaust with a resonator delete

Interestingly, although it seems to ramp the volume up from normal mode upwards, quiet mode seems very little different ?

I seem to be noticing a little bit of a trend with people that don’t like a resonator delete on a facelift 550.

‘Most’ people that don’t seem to like it seem likely to fall into one or both of the following two categories :

• Non active exhaust cars (the internals of the active and non active rear mufflers are considerably different).
• Convertible drivers (maybe the way sound bounces around the car means it’s just not pleasing to the driver ?).

I’m not saying the above are hard and fast rules, but there defo seems to be a trend

WD

 

[Gnatsum21]

If you frequently find yourself driving in sport and / or track, I think you will love the active exhaust with a resonator delete

Interestingly, although it seems to ramp the volume up from normal mode upwards, quiet mode seems very little different ?

I seem to be noticing a little bit of a trend with people that don’t like a resonator delete on a facelift 550.

‘Most’ people that don’t seem to like it seem likely to fall into one or both of the following two categories :

• Non active exhaust cars (the internals of the active and non active rear mufflers are considerably different).
• Convertible drivers (maybe the way sound bounces around the car means it’s just not pleasing to the driver ?).

I’m not saying the above are hard and fast rules, but there defo seems to be a trend

WD

Ok, I will have it installed (H pipe) when at Steeda, might as well. I would love to hear it at least once

 

[The Insomnimaniac]

When I put my Steeda H-Pipe on my 2019 5.0 vert 6 speed it made the exhaust quite raspy and tinny.......replaced the resonator an hour later and sold the H-Pipe!!

HARD to beat the sounds of Ford OEM "Active Exhaust"!!

Yea the the stock AE is the best sounding factory exhaust hands down. I’ve heard most say the H just makes it louder. A few say the car sounds deeper. Either way, I’m certainly hoping it’s not too raspy. I'm keeping my resonator just in case though!

 

[dman918]

If you frequently find yourself driving in sport and / or track, I think you will love the active exhaust with a resonator delete

Interestingly, although it seems to ramp the volume up from normal mode upwards, quiet mode seems very little different ?

I seem to be noticing a little bit of a trend with people that don’t like a resonator delete on a facelift 550.

‘Most’ people that don’t seem to like it seem likely to fall into one or both of the following two categories :

• Non active exhaust cars (the internals of the active and non active rear mufflers are considerably different).
• Convertible drivers (maybe the way sound bounces around the car means it’s just not pleasing to the driver ?).

I’m not saying the above are hard and fast rules, but there defo seems to be a trend

WD

Well see how it goes. I have a facelift convertible with active exhaust. I don't really need it louder, but I'd like a little deeper and some pops and crackles....

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