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Replacement bolts/nuts for suspension

Aurum

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I'm hoping to upgrade my suspension in the next month or two and am assembling some parts. I'm going to be getting the Ford Racing track struts/shocks and some min drop springs.

I understand all the nuts/bolts on the S550 are technically TTY and need to be replaced once removed with a fresh kit.

It doesn't appear that the Ford Racing shocks/struts come with replacement bolts. Does anyone have part #s for the bolts/nuts that I should replace?

Thanks!
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BmacIL

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That's not correct about them being TTY. They have loctite patches which is why Ford does a CYA and says to replace them. You don't really need to though. I would recommend an extra set of strut to knuckle bolts and nuts because you often have to take a sledge to them to get them out (they're a splined press fit). You may consider camber bolts to get it aligned perfectly symmetrical, although you won't need them for your drop.
 

DickR

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That's not correct about them being TTY. They have loctite patches which is why Ford does a CYA and says to replace them. You don't really need to though. I would recommend an extra set of strut to knuckle bolts and nuts because you often have to take a sledge to them to get them out (they're a splined press fit). You may consider camber bolts to get it aligned perfectly symmetrical, although you won't need them for your drop.
In addition note that the torque spec for the strut to knuckle bolts is 184 lb-ft. For bolts you don't replace you can use blue loctite.
 

johnson.ba

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My tip for the eventual install is to get a big hammer. I first used a regular claw hammer for hammering and removing nails. That takes way to many swings to not ruin the nut on the strut/knuckle splined bolts. On my trip to get new ones I stopped and got an "engineer's hammer", maybe a 7lb, and it only took 3 or 4 swings to pop them out.
 

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M151A2

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Not sure where the the Torque to Yield rumor came from but as bmacIL said, they are not TTY or a better term is Angular Torque.
TTY bolts are first loaded to a specific torque and then turned more of an angle, say, another 90 degrees. This angle, takes the bolt to it's plastic stage where it is stretched past the point where it returns to it's original length.
The suspension bolts on the 550 are torqued to their required value and that's it. No more turning.

In summary, if you are NOT required to turn the bolt again ( in degrees ) after the initial torquing of the bolt, it's NOT Torque to Yield and can be re-used as long as there is no other damage to said bolt.
 

Bahndvr

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whalesalad

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I used all new hardware on the rear shocks/billet mounts. For the front I used new splined bolts too. Have the other stuff but didn’t end up using it since I have the Steeda camber plates.
 

Daytona Coupe

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You can buy the entire kit from Ford for something like $130 for all new everything - I thought it was a good value to know that everything was 100% good. That being said, I did have probably 1/3 of the kit left over that I didn't need to use when I installed the complete track handling pack. Ford part number is M-FR3-FASTENA
 
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Aurum

Aurum

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Bahndvr

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Yes that's what I bought:
-W715932-S439 / Strut Lower Bolt
-W520517-S450 / Strut Nut
 

Monopoly

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I installed the FRPP track suspension kit and just used the nuts the kit came with. No bolts replaced just used loctite. No issues so far.
 

JohnD

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Brake Caliper bolts on PP six piston brembos have loctite on them from factory. Either use new bolts or at a minimum apply loctite. Front anti-roll bar end links as well.
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