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Recommendations: Best Low NVH Rear Diff and IRS Bushing kits?

DougS550

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Hi. So what was the consensus as to the Best bushings to install in the the rear Diff and IRS subframe to reduce the movement but not increase noises or vibration like Steeda or BMR create?
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From pouring over hundreds of threads and never being able to make my mind up.

For the IRS subframe if NVH is the #1 priority.... Whiteline KDT943 and Steeda IRS braces.
The "best kit" that everyone will say will be the Steeda Stop the Hop or BMR CB005 or CB010/CB762 combo.
 
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DougS550

DougS550

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From pouring over hundreds of threads and never being able to make my mind up.

For the IRS subframe if NVH is the #1 priority.... Whiteline KDT943 and Steeda IRS braces.
The "best kit" that everyone will say will be the Steeda Stop the Hop or BMR CB005 or CB010/CB762 combo.
Thank You. I have ALL other areas braced with AAD and BMR. Thank You.
 

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Steeda black diff. bushings, differential bracket, adj. motor mounts and even the Boomba transmission mount with black bushings are very quiet and smooth running for me. You wouldn’t think so, but they are.
 
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DougS550

DougS550

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Steeda black diff. bushings, differential bracket, adj. motor mounts and even the Boomba transmission mount with black bushings are very quiet and smooth running for me. You wouldn’t think so, but they are.
Do you possibly have the part numbers for these? I just don't want to regret building my car if it rides so stiff, and makes so much noise its not fun to drive any more. Thanks You
 

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I think the noise is a gamble and very individual / variable from one car to another. Even the manufacturers seem to suggest that with their wording i.e. I’m not totally sure you can take one user’s experience and expect the same on your own car.

I was worried but it turned out I had no reason it be, here is some text I wrote to another user via PM (and they were having some very definite issues) :

This is my last post on NVH from this kit, in my experience its 100% truthful and since I wrote it my feelings haven't changed :

I had them, diff inserts (red), dowels and a H pipe fitted at the same time.

I gained the slightest of gear noise, but I can only tell on very light on / off throttle and only below 10mph, anything above that and it's gone / drowned out.

I'm pretty sure that's from the diff inserts and not the subframe bushes or dowels.

I'm also pretty sure wifey wouldn't notice it, even if I pointed it out and certainly not if conversation was going on or she had the radio at her normal levels. If I asked her, I would probably get the blank stare followed up with a comment along the lines of nothing there / all in your head / stop being paranoid / stop being anal, then she'd quickly regret mentioning the last word, telling me not to get any wise ideas and to continue to worry about the noise instead :giggle:

WD :like:
So I do have some noise, but its minimal and certainly not enough for me to reverse the mod.

These cars really seem to be a crap shoot though - from getting nothing to it being unbearable, I just can't work it out.

I was worried when I got the vertical links, but they haven't made a slight bit of difference to NVH - which was a relief lol.

My next worry will be when I change the gears and the torsen. Whilst I hope the change of gears (with a good setup) has the ability to reduce my low speed whine, I won't know until its all back together, and whos to say the torsen isn't going to influence it either way ... ?

I do get some driveline clunks, but I have always had those and the box / prop / diff does seem to have a lot of slop in it (+ our cars seem to be renowned for that). It's very predictable though, I can get through a full drive without it, but if I was to almost stall (particularly in a manoeuvre that entails forward and reverse), or if I backed full off at low speed and then immediately got back on it, yes, I would hear a clunk.


My best guess it that is rear gear related - again, I'm living in hope that the rebuilt pumpkin may help to address it.

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I think the noise is a gamble and very individual / variable from one car to another. Even the manufacturers seem to suggest that with their wording i.e. I’m not totally sure you can take one user’s experience and expect the same on your own car.

I was worried but it turned out I had no reason it be, here is some text I wrote to another user via PM (and they were having some very definite issues) :

This is my last post on NVH from this kit, in my experience its 100% truthful and since I wrote it my feelings haven't changed :



So I do have some noise, but its minimal and certainly not enough for me to reverse the mod.

These cars really seem to be a crap shoot though - from getting nothing to it being unbearable, I just can't work it out.

I was worried when I got the vertical links, but they haven't made a slight bit of difference to NVH - which was a relief lol.

My next worry will be when I change the gears and the torsen. Whilst I hope the change of gears (with a good setup) has the ability to reduce my low speed whine, I won't know until its all back together, and whos to say the torsen isn't going to influence it either way ... ?

I do get some driveline clunks, but I have always had those and the box / prop / diff does seem to have a lot of slop in it (+ our cars seem to be renowned for that). It's very predictable though, I can get through a full drive without it, but if I was to almost stall (particularly in a manoeuvre that entails forward and reverse), or if I backed full off at low speed and then immediately got back on it, yes, I would hear a clunk.


My best guess it that is rear gear related - again, I'm living in hope that the rebuilt pumpkin may help to address it.

WD :like:
What rear gear will you be installing WD? Half shaft upgrade too?
 

NGOT8R

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I should also point out that I went into these mods expecting a lot of NVH, but I was pleasantly surprised to have little to no noise (only slight whine from the diff. which is very minimal at low speed like WD has described). Even if I had encountered moderate NVH, it would have been something that I would have willingly accepted for improved performance. Thankfully that’s not the case though.

I drove my car over 1300 miles from Kansas City to Florida with all the mods that I linked for you, except for the Boomba tranny mount, but I did have a black Whiteline tranny bushing, plus RLCA spherical bearings installed at the time. The drive was very comfortable and I wouldn’t hesitate to drive even further distances as the car sits now with even more rear suspension and drivetrain parts installed.
 
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What rear gear will you be installing WD? Half shaft upgrade too?
I’m not sure if you are aware but all V8 Euro cars are essentially a PP1 spec car but regardless of model (including Bullitt’s and Mach’s), we get a 3.55 trac loc regardless of if they are a M6, A6 or A10.

I have a new Torsen, with 4.09 gear set and fitting kit. When I get a bit of spare money I will pick up a pumpkin and get it rebuilt and beautified before swapping them over.

Shafts will likely stay the same. No local drag strips or prepped surfaces over here :like:

WD :like:
 

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NGOT8R

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I’m not sure if you are aware but all V8 Euro cars are essentially a PP1 spec car but regardless of model (including Bullitt’s and Mach’s), we get a 3.55 trac loc regardless of if they are a M6, A6 or A10.

I have a new Torsen, with 4.09 gear set and fitting kit. When I get a bit of spare money I will pick up a pumpkin and get it rebuilt and beautified before swapping them over.

Shafts will likely stay the same. No local drag strips or prepped surfaces over here :like:

WD :like:
I didn’t know that. I thought all Bullitts had a Torsen and 3.73 gear whether US or Euro spec. Any idea why Euro cars are spec’d that way? Regardless, you’re about to remedy that with the addition of the 4.09 and Torsen for yours.
 

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I’ve never seen an official reason, but the most plausible explanation is type approval, mostly relating to emissions.

I just don’t think the market is big enough to justify additional testing by model / by diff type / by diff ratio.

Our U.K. numbers are in comparison very low, here’s something I have been compiling for a U.K. thread :

1691483464385.png


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NGOT8R

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I’ve never seen an official reason, but the most plausible explanation is type approval, mostly relating to emissions.

I just don’t think the market is big enough to justify additional testing by model / by diff type / by diff ratio.

Our U.K. numbers are in comparison very low, here’s something I have been compiling for a U.K. thread :

1691483464385.png


WD :like:
That’s very interesting. What’s the most popular performance oriented vehicle in the UK?
 

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So what was the consensus as to the Best bushings to install in the the rear Diff and IRS subframe to reduce the movement but not increase noises or vibration
Changing from the stock Powder Puff bushings will increase NVH but to what point is subjective and personal preference.
Bottomline, no matter whose stuff you install it’s going to take away Fords built in Charmin Soft quality and add some real American Muscle feel to a watered down performance car.
My suggestion, BMR cradle lockout, Steeda Diff bushing inserts and within 100 miles of driving all the new buzzing sounds will be worth the trade off.
 
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DougS550

DougS550

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Changing from the stock Powder Puff bushings will increase NVH but to what point is subjective and personal preference.
Bottomline, no matter who’s stuff you install it’s going to take away Fords built in Charmin Soft quality and add some real American Muscle feel to a watered down performance car.
My suggestion, BMR cradle lockout, Steeda Diff bushing inserts and within 100 miles of driving all the new buzzing sounds will be worth the trade off.
I know. Thank You for your help. I will look into your suggestions.
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