How would you spend $100 on suspension for a stock GT?

[jacknifetoaswan]

Reality is that $100 is going to address maybe one weak point or potential deflection point and isn't going to make any significant difference in handling. The IRS subframe, bushings, and rear suspension components are the weak/soft points in the car that need to be addressed. You're looking at a minimum of $600 plus an alignment to make any noticeable change in the vehicle.

That said, if you're hell bent on spending $100, I'd go with the Steeda subframe alignment dowels and an alignment. Those will prevent deflection of the rear subframe under load, as they fit directly into the unibody. After that, you can address things as you see fit, but many components may require an alignment. Duplicative effort and dollars.

JR

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[CXRs]

Reality is that $100 is going to address maybe one weak point or potential deflection point and isn't going to make any significant difference in handling. The IRS subframe, bushings, and rear suspension components are the weak/soft points in the car that need to be addressed. You're looking at a minimum of $600 plus an alignment to make any noticeable change in the vehicle.

That said, if you're hell bent on spending $100, I'd go with the Steeda subframe alignment dowels and an alignment. Those will prevent deflection of the rear subframe under load, as they fit directly into the unibody. After that, you can address things as you see fit, but many components may require an alignment. Duplicative effort and dollars.

JR

That's fair. Like mentioned before, I'm chasing the little things now that can make a QoL difference. I'm still way new to this platform, but I'm used to other cars like Vettes that would have a night and day difference with a poly trans bushing, or Subarus that would smooth out with a poly/billet pitch stop and IRS bushing inserts. I know the newer tech makes this car better off the showroom floor for stuff like that, but there's gotta be somewhere I can trim off some NVH compromises. It can obviously be more than $100, but I'm not dropping $3k on a suspension until I've gotten enough seat time to see where I'm lacking vs where the car is lacking.

 

[jacknifetoaswan]

That's fair. Like mentioned before, I'm chasing the little things now that can make a QoL difference. I'm still way new to this platform, but I'm used to other cars like Vettes that would have a night and day difference with a poly trans bushing, or Subarus that would smooth out with a poly/billet pitch stop and IRS bushing inserts. I know the newer tech makes this car better off the showroom floor for stuff like that, but there's gotta be somewhere I can trim off some NVH compromises. It can obviously be more than $100, but I'm not dropping $3k on a suspension until I've gotten enough seat time to see where I'm lacking vs where the car is lacking.

I'd start here:
https://www.steeda.com/Steeda-S550-Mustang-Stop-The-Hop-Starter-Kit-555-4455
https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-...t-system-urethane-2015-ecoboost-555-4443.html

If you time the sale, you can probably get all the parts for about $600, a few hours for install (relatively simple DIY on jack stands), and an alignment. This will VASTLY improve the rear of the car, which is what needs it most. If you want to get fancy, you can add vertical links, and if you're planning to lower in the future, you can add adjustable toe links and/or camber arms. I have all of what's linked above, plus the vertical links, and the car handles incredibly well on stock PP suspension and Michelin Pilot Sport 4 S tires. I also have the toe links sitting in my toolbox, ready for when I need an alignment.

JR

 

[CXRs]

I'd start here:
https://www.steeda.com/Steeda-S550-Mustang-Stop-The-Hop-Starter-Kit-555-4455
https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-...t-system-urethane-2015-ecoboost-555-4443.html

If you time the sale, you can probably get all the parts for about $600, a few hours for install (relatively simple DIY on jack stands), and an alignment. This will VASTLY improve the rear of the car, which is what needs it most. If you want to get fancy, you can add vertical links, and if you're planning to lower in the future, you can add adjustable toe links and/or camber arms. I have all of what's linked above, plus the vertical links, and the car handles incredibly well on stock PP suspension and Michelin Pilot Sport 4 S tires. I also have the toe links sitting in my toolbox, ready for when I need an alignment.

JR

Sweet, thank you! I was planning on the stop the hop kit, but it comes in so many levels, and I genuinely don't know which to go with. I won't be dragging the car too often, and am targeting and end goal closer to obese supercar than highway bruiser, so I know I'll need some traction stuff, but just not sure how much. From the posts in the thread so far, my parts list is now:

Subframe inserts instead of full lockouts, since I do road trip this car
Subframe support brace since it seems like that won't need upgraded down the line, or get in the way
Front K member brace
Rear toe links but I'm not sure that the Ford ones will fit for me, since I'm planning on a power adder down the road. It seems like these still use rubber bushings rather than poly

 

[paulm1]

3 piece strut tower brace used from midway mustangs $150 or so. Steeda gtrack brace, $200 or so. I did both, turn in and suspension responsiveness much better.

 

[CXRs]

$100? I’d buy a book on suspension tuning, maybe Tune to Win and a couple others. If you could save up a bit more, then you could get an alignment or maybe a couple tanks of gas.

I'm good lol. I've been at it for a couple years now and have done my share of trackside dialing, and there's not much in the stock suspension to adjust. I've already done my alignment, so that's not something I'm too worried about.

 

[jacknifetoaswan]

Sweet, thank you! I was planning on the stop the hop kit, but it comes in so many levels, and I genuinely don't know which to go with. I won't be dragging the car too often, and am targeting and end goal closer to obese supercar than highway bruiser, so I know I'll need some traction stuff, but just not sure how much. From the posts in the thread so far, my parts list is now:

Subframe inserts instead of full lockouts, since I do road trip this car
Subframe support brace since it seems like that won't need upgraded down the line, or get in the way
Front K member brace
Rear toe links but I'm not sure that the Ford ones will fit for me, since I'm planning on a power adder down the road. It seems like these still use rubber bushings rather than poly

I think you'll see the most return on investment from upgrading the IRS. The front k-member cost would be better spent on the alignment dowels, but I'd start with the Stop the Hop Starter kit and go from there. Steeda does a really good job at building these things out and setting them up for a wide application. Like I said above, the Starter Kit with the diff bushings will make a huge difference for about $600.

JR

 

[WD Pro]

I know these have already been mentioned and they are a little over your target, but the difference is very noticeable :

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-irs-sub-frame-bushing-support-system-2015-555-4437.html

The dowels are nice, but not a necessity and you won't notice a difference in driving dynamics.

You could have two identically set up and alligend cars, but one with and one without the dowels - you wouldn't tell any difference from behind the wheel.

The same couldn't be said for the kit I linked above, those two cars would drive significantly differently.

The dowels are like jacking rails i.e. they add convenience, but not performance.

WD

 

[MAGS1]

Sweet, thank you! I was planning on the stop the hop kit, but it comes in so many levels, and I genuinely don't know which to go with. I won't be dragging the car too often, and am targeting and end goal closer to obese supercar than highway bruiser, so I know I'll need some traction stuff, but just not sure how much. From the posts in the thread so far, my parts list is now:

Subframe inserts instead of full lockouts, since I do road trip this car
Subframe support brace since it seems like that won't need upgraded down the line, or get in the way
Front K member brace
Rear toe links but I'm not sure that the Ford ones will fit for me, since I'm planning on a power adder down the road. It seems like these still use rubber bushings rather than poly

I have the first 3 on your list plus the FP strut tower brace, cowl brace and cowl extension. I haven’t had time to install the Steeda stuff yet but there is a noticeable improvement with the FP strut tower brace kit. Jacking rails would be another good one if you jack the car up fairly often. I have the Steeda full length and they’re fantastic. And the full length are designed to fit with the subframe braces (mixing and matching Steeda and BMR won’t work).

 

[CXRs]

I know these have already been mentioned and they are a little over your target, but the difference is very noticeable :

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-irs-sub-frame-bushing-support-system-2015-555-4437.html

The dowels are nice, but not a necessity and you won't notice a difference in driving dynamics.

You could have two identically set up and alligend cars, but one with and one without the dowels - you wouldn't tell any difference from behind the wheel.

The same couldn't be said for the kit I linked above, those two cars would drive significantly differently.

The dowels are like jacking rails i.e. they add convenience, but not performance.

WD

I do like those, but I'm worried about NVH. I know some people say there's none, but I put a lot of highway miles on with this, and my wife already isn't thrilled with how loud it is haha. I may pull the trigger, I just don't know yet. I'd have to ride in a car with them to see.

 

[Flyhalf]

220$. Handling Bmr Springs.
Dont go with coilovers just yet. A 1-2000$.coilover
Is not superior than FP STRUTS and Bmr springs.
Wait till u have 4k and also if u plan aero go aero.

the bushing will help but is a detail compare the springs.

 

[WD Pro]

I do like those, but I'm worried about NVH. I know some people say there's none, but I put a lot of highway miles on with this, and my wife already isn't thrilled with how loud it is haha. I may pull the trigger, I just don't know yet. I'd have to ride in a car with them to see.

I had them, diff inserts (red), dowels and a H pipe fitted at the same time.

I gained the slightest of gear noise, but I can only tell on very light on / off throttle and only below 10mph, anything above that and it's gone / drowned out.

I'm pretty sure that's from the diff inserts and not the subframe bushes or dowels.

I'm also pretty sure wifey wouldn't notice it, even if I pointed it out and certainly not if conversation was going on or she had the radio at her normal levels. If I asked her, I would probably get the blank stare followed up with a comment along the lines of nothing there / all in your head / stop being paranoid / stop being anal, then she'd quickly regret mentioning the last word, telling me not to get any wise ideas and to continue to worry about the noise instead

WD

 

[jacknifetoaswan]

I know these have already been mentioned and they are a little over your target, but the difference is very noticeable :

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-irs-sub-frame-bushing-support-system-2015-555-4437.html

The dowels are nice, but not a necessity and you won't notice a difference in driving dynamics.

You could have two identically set up and alligend cars, but one with and one without the dowels - you wouldn't tell any difference from behind the wheel.

The same couldn't be said for the kit I linked above, those two cars would drive significantly differently.

The dowels are like jacking rails i.e. they add convenience, but not performance.

WD

Disagree completely. The dowels eliminate movement of the subframe in two directions under hard cornering, or accel/decel. They're best as part of a package that also addresses the IRS and diff bushings, but I disagree that you won't notice the difference.

I do like those, but I'm worried about NVH. I know some people say there's none, but I put a lot of highway miles on with this, and my wife already isn't thrilled with how loud it is haha. I may pull the trigger, I just don't know yet. I'd have to ride in a car with them to see.

Zero increase in NVH on my car. The diff bushings, yes. These, no.

JR

 

[WD Pro]

Disagree completely. The dowels eliminate movement of the subframe in two directions under hard cornering, or accel/decel. They're best as part of a package that also addresses the IRS and diff bushings, but I disagree that you won't notice the difference.

We are going to have to agree to disagree then

Answer me this - unless your subframe bolts are physically loose, how can there be any movement in that area ?

The subframe has teeth to bite into the frame, does that area wear away due to the movement you are suggesting ?

WD

 

[Jstang23]

Disagree completely. The dowels eliminate movement of the subframe in two directions under hard cornering, or accel/decel. They're best as part of a package that also addresses the IRS and diff bushings, but I disagree that you won't notice the difference.

The dowels really do not eliminate movement in the subframe. They allow for the subframe to be reinstalled back perfectly in the center every time. Hence why they call them alignment dowels, not subframe stiffening bushings. If your subframe is moving while driving, it was not installed properly.

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