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HELP Steeda Differential Bushing Inserts

gqneon

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So I'm in the middle of my Steeda aluminum differential bushing insert installation. I did the front first since I'm also installing my BMR cradle lockout kit at the same time. Now I'm on the rear, which should be WAY simpler and faster, but the rear differential bolts are kicking my ass.

I keep thinking it must be an alignment issue between the diff and subframe, because I can hardly turn the bolts out with a 1/2" impact, and once I get them hand started I have to use a breaker bar to get them to turn in. I shouldn't NEED an impact to install a bolt.

Anyone got any tricks? I have been using a jack and block under the differential with the two rear subframe bolts out to let it hang down enough to access the rear differential bolts. I've tried it with the subframe bolts partially in, all the way out, and with and without jacking the differential at different angles...

I most recently used the jack to raise the differential until the bolts were centered in the stock bushing, and I got ONE out with an impact, took an impact wrench to get it all the way.

I got it started back in with the bushing and grease on the bolt, but it got past the first third or so and it is rough going. I don't think it should be like that.

Anyone who's done any of the steeda insert please chime in ASAP - All I have to do is get those two bolts in and out and final torque and I'm done for the day. Well, and to put my cat-back exhaust back on - I dropped it for the clearance. Those front bushings were a pain in the ass.
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gqneon

gqneon

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Disregard. I used a pry bar and a jack to double check my alignment of the differential and subframe and managed to get it lined up to hand thread about 5 turns and then impacted it the rest of the way in.

Test drove it lightly and i don't really hear any difference in NVH. I don't hear "gear whine" but I can hear a little more of the clutch noises and trans rollover than before I guess. It's not bothersome or invasive at all. I'll see how a couple days of highway driving do and see if I change my mind.
 

Jmeo

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Interesting. This should be simple. I did mine twice. Put in red inserts and took them out both without incident.

How were the threads looking? Hope you don't have any stripping of the bolt or threads going on.

Did you notice any red thread locker on the threads? Possible it was done at the factory?

Wish I could help more but I don't know why you are having this problem.
 

yellowstangatl

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I had mine installed on Monday. The tech had to drop the exhaust (mbrp street) and had a real hard time getting one of the new bolts in. I was thinking it was cross threaded but it wasn't just really tough to get in. I think there was some residual thread locker left from the factory bolt. I think somebody at the factory was extra happy with the thread locker. Running a wire brush throught there might have helped. Ratcheting wrenches are pretty much required for both sides of the front diff bushings. Only additional NVH is I can feel/hear more of the 2 piece driveshaft slop.
 
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gqneon

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Only additional NVH is I can feel/hear more of the 2 piece driveshaft slop.
Right on. And to your response and Jmeo's response - there was quite a bit of blue thread locker on the threads of both when I finally wrestled them out. I cleaned them up and just had to get them lined up just right to go - then it was fine. No stripping on threads or metal, luckily. Glad they're hardened bolts though.

I think it had something to do with me installing them (aluminum - zero room for variance) along with the BMR cradle lock out at the same time. Both items are for precision locating the components, so I should have just remembered that and grabbed pry bars in the first place lol.

Should have been a 2-3 hour job in the garage - everything ended up taking me about 5. I'm cool with that though - beats the sh*t out of going to work!

:cheers:
 

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yellowstangatl

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Right on. And to your response and Jmeo's response - there was quite a bit of blue thread locker on the threads of both when I finally wrestled them out. I cleaned them up and just had to get them lined up just right to go - then it was fine. No stripping on threads or metal, luckily. Glad they're hardened bolts though.

I think it had something to do with me installing them (aluminum - zero room for variance) along with the BMR cradle lock out at the same time. Both items are for precision locating the components, so I should have just remembered that and grabbed pry bars in the first place lol.

Should have been a 2-3 hour job in the garage - everything ended up taking me about 5. I'm cool with that though - beats the sh*t out of going to work!

:cheers:
Just noticed you did the aluminium ones. I went with the reds.
 

RyanS550GT

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I installed the black inserts along with Steeda's subframe bushings and I didn't have any problems installing the diff bushings.

Did you only remove one diff bushing bolt at a time? When I removed one bolt I easily took out and put back the new bolts back in. With the three bolts still securely in there it seemed to keep the diff in place that there was no binding. Like you said though maybe the aluminum bushings didn't allow much play at all.

As for the driveshaft noise increase I can definitely attest to that. It is like clickity clackity all over the place.

I can also hear a slight gear noise increase in certain speeds but it is very slight and doesn't bother me at all. The clutch and driveshaft not so much.
 

s550v6

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Did anyone get a "ping"-ing noise when the car shifts? I just installed my inserts and when i engage the gas pedal or let off there is an audible and tactile "ping" and I'm wondering if this is cause for concern or a normal product of differential bushings or inserts?
 

Rustang

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Installed mine the other day and the only issue I had was the tight clearances of the fronts. The rear bolts had resistance all the way in and out but only enough to not turn by hand, which a wrench it was practically nothing. I did oneat a time too. I haven't heard any clicking on mine when shifting but maybe my exhaust is covering it up. I do hear the rear whine more but its not loud and doesn't bother me at all. I thought I remember reading the clicking might be the ends of the 2 front bolts touching tips when the load changes.
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