Rear spring installation

[matthewr87]

I am considering picking up the FP sway bar and spring kit for the GT350. However I am unsure about the installation of the rear springs. The FP instructions state to essentially disassemble a lot of the arm and knuckle assembly, which requires removal of the muffler and exhaust to access the rear facing bolts. In the videos I've seen online, including from vendors, they do the install by dropping the rear subframe and this seems a lot less complicated. But I am unsure about the implications of unbolting the subframe.

What do you guys recommend?

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[NGOT8R]

I loosened both sides on my subframe and removed the large blue bolts one side at a time and lowered the subframe on that side just enough to remove/install the springs (Reverse that procedure for the other side). You will of course have to disconnect the E-brake and unbolt the rear calipers and hang them up out of the way. If you have Magneride, you will also need to disconnect the plastic mechanical arms from the RLCA as well.

 

[Inthehighdesert]

This. I’ve done it several times on the floor, not using my lift. Jacked it up, put stands under the body, used the floor jack under the pumpkin to lower the rear and control how far down. Chaulk the front end real good to be safe.

I loosened both sides on my subframe and removed the large blue bolts one side at a time and lowered the subframe on that side just enough to remove/install the springs (Reverse that procedure for the other side). You will of course have to disconnect the E-brake and unbolt the rear calipers and hang them up out of the way. If you have Magneride, you will also need to disconnect the plastic mechanical arms from the RLCA as well.

 

[matthewr87]

In theory, shouldn't it be possible to just use a spring compressor (perhaps an internal one) and remove the rear spring without loosening the subframe OR removing the LCA?

 

[RAVAGE88]

In theory, shouldn't it be possible to just use a spring compressor (perhaps an internal one) and remove the rear spring without loosening the subframe OR removing the LCA?

On my GT, I dropped each side of the subframe as described by @NGOT8R, but couldn't quite drop far enough to get the springs out. My clam shell compressor wouldn't fit, so I used multiple "C" clamps to compress the spring enough to slide them out. The Steeda springs I put in were more than short enough (at full length) to go in without issue. Not a hard job at all and I did it on jack stands.

MB

 

[Inthehighdesert]

In theory, yes. But the install way we’re describing is actually much quicker and simpler. It takes me about an hour cruising to swap the rear springs. Lining it back up is as simple as using a large phillips or pin to line the assembly back up if it gets tweaked ever so slightly. It really is the less painful way to do the swap so to speak.

In theory, shouldn't it be possible to just use a spring compressor (perhaps an internal one) and remove the rear spring without loosening the subframe OR removing the LCA?

 

[galaxy]

On my last spring install, I seem to recall unbolting one end of the shock, the sway bar, and maaayyybbeeee the dog bone (not totally positive on the dog bone, but it's in my brain for some reason). From there, I unbolted both bolts on each side of the subframe (one side at a time), and it would drop just enough to get the spring in and out without any compressor, prying, or holding my mouth just right. But I know for a fact I've never touched the control arms or other components. Sure there's more than one way to skin this cat.

 

[NGOT8R]

On my last spring install, I seem to recall unbolting one end of the shock, the sway bar, and maaayyybbeeee the dog bone (not totally positive on the dog bone, but it's in my brain for some reason). From there, I unbolted both bolts on each side of the subframe (one side at a time), and it would drop just enough to get the spring in and out without any compressor, prying, or holding my mouth just right. But I know for a fact I've never touched the control arms or other components. Sure there's more than one way to skin this cat.

You are correct @galaxy. I forgot to mention that I did remove my shocks and sway bar end links as well.

 

[NGOT8R]

@matthewr87 I also recommend ordering new isolators. Mine were torn top and bottom with very little miles on them.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...rn-2019-bullitt-with-very-low-mileage.200243/

 

[matthewr87]

Hmmmm.....so Capaldi Racing pulled a bait and switch on me. They had the M-5700-N kit listed for $790. I placed the ordered last night. And today they called me and said that the kit won't be available until end of January 2025 and refunded me my money. Now the kit is available for pre-order from them for $990......

So now I'm looking to see if I can buy the swaybars and springs separately. Is the swaybar kit in M-5700-N actually the M-5490-G listed on the FP website? It seems that is a generic sway bar kit that fits pretty much all S550 Mustangs and the picture doesn't really match between the M-5700-N and M-5490-G listings.

 

[dnstommy]

I am considering picking up the FP sway bar and spring kit for the GT350. However I am unsure about the installation of the rear springs. The FP instructions state to essentially disassemble a lot of the arm and knuckle assembly, which requires removal of the muffler and exhaust to access the rear facing bolts. In the videos I've seen online, including from vendors, they do the install by dropping the rear subframe and this seems a lot less complicated. But I am unsure about the implications of unbolting the subframe.

What do you guys recommend?

I used this one and it worked great.

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