Rear camber problems

[Mustangcol]

Starting a new thread, not much response in the other section.
I have a 2017 Ford Mustang GT with a ton of mods (check signature). OEM GT350 springs. I currently have -1.4, mostly city driving or curvy mountain roads. The outside shoulder of the front tires are getting chopped. I am shooting for -1.8 or -2 up front. I put BMR camber bolts, but the alignment techs in my city can't seem to get more than -1.4 so I ordered BMR camber plates.

In the rear, we loosened the rear camber links, pushed the wheel in as much as possible, and locked them down (with the car in the air), it came out to be -1.1 and -1.3. Now that I'm writing this thread, I'm wondering if im not getting more negative because we're not torqueing it down with the weight of the car.

Has anyone noticed camber changes by not clocking the bushings with the weight of the car? Maybe I can get to -1.5 on both sides if we loosen the suspension components, push in the wheel, lower the car, and tighten everything down?

I was looking at adjustable camber arms, but I really don't want to drop more money on this car, and I don't like any of the options that I've seen.

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[Skye]

IDK how it'd affect the readings, more + or more -, but adjusting in the air has to make some difference.

Steeda has a video explaining "torque at curb": while initial tightening of any component could begin in the air, final tightening should be done "at curb", with the suspension under its normal load.

I'd see an alignment as being no different.

 

[NightmareMoon]

With OEM parts, rear camber goes to more than 2.0.

Whatever you loosened in the rear probably wasnt the right spot. The arm connects to the subframe way up in there, its a little hard to get to, and that hole is slotted so theres quite a lot of possible movement.

Pictures here:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/rear-camber-adjustment-pics-how-to.21537/

 

[junits15]

remember toe and camber are related parameters, have you tried another shop?

 

[Mustangcol]

With OEM parts, rear camber goes to more than 2.0.

Whatever you loosened in the rear probably wasnt the right spot. The arm connects to the subframe way up in there, its a little hard to get to, and that hole is slotted so theres quite a lot of possible movement.

Pictures here:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/rear-camber-adjustment-pics-how-to.21537/

Yeah thats the bolt that we loosened. I am reading that it goes up to -2 camber, but I am not seeing that. I don't remember if the alignment tech bounced the suspension after we set that..

 

[Mustangcol]

remember toe and camber are related parameters, have you tried another shop?

I tried 2 shops. I read that the toe is related, so any changes to toe will change the camber. When I'm done with this I'm going to be an expert lol. Right now the rear toe is -0.10 each side with a total of -0.20

 

[junits15]

I tried 2 shops. I read that the toe is related, so any changes to toe will change the camber. When I'm done with this I'm going to be an expert lol. Right now the rear toe is -0.10 each side with a total of -0.20

That's good toe for the rear, are you measuring it yourself or relying on the shops numbers?

 

[Mustangcol]

That's good toe for the rear, are you measuring it yourself or relying on the shops numbers?

Thats the shop's numbers.
I'm currently at:
Front Toe: 0.06 and 0.07
Front Caster: I think 7.6
Front Camber: -1.4

Rear toe: 0.10 and 0.10
Rear Camber: -1.1 and -1.3

 

[junits15]

Thats the shop's numbers.
I'm currently at:
Front Toe: 0.06 and 0.07
Front Caster: I think 7.6
Front Camber: -1.4

Rear toe: 0.10 and 0.10
Rear Camber: -1.1 and -1.3

That is odd, you should be able to get more camber than that, but I'm only running -1 in the rear. You're running the same front specs i am, is this the BMR street alignment?

 

[Mustangcol]

That is odd, you should be able to get more camber than that, but I'm only running -1 in the rear. You're running the same front specs i am, is this the BMR street alignment?

On their camber plate instructions they say -1.75 front for street stock style radials, and -2 for 200 treadwear performance tires. I have Falken FK510 with 300TW tires so I'd like to run -1.8 or -2 up front. I shouldn't have a issue getting there with the camber plates that I ordered.

But the rear they call for -1.5 +/- 0.75
I know that the rear should be less than the front so I think a -2 front and -1.5 rear would be great. Maybe I need to try yet another alignment shop lol and clock the bushings.
The alignment sheet from the first shop was only -0.9 and -1.1
The 2nd shop got a little bit more

 

[NightmareMoon]

When you pushed on the rear wheel, did it visibly shift? Its pretty noticeable when it moves in that slot.

Yes you want to righten the bushings with the suspension compressed or they can hold some preload, however while it makes some difference in ride height it wont make a huge impact on camber.

Camber and toe cross adjustements in both the rear and front cross talk some, but your toe looks fine, so we’d still fully expect more than 2 deg neg camber in the rear.

I’d try again, something isnt adding up.

 

[Mustangcol]

When you pushed on the rear wheel, did it visibly shift? Its pretty noticeable when it moves in that slot.

Yes you want to righten the bushings with the suspension compressed or they can hold some preload, however while it makes some difference in ride height it wont make a huge impact on camber.

Camber and toe cross adjustements in both the rear and front cross talk some, but your toe looks fine, so we’d still fully expect more than 2 deg neg camber in the rear.

I’d try again, something isnt adding up.

Okay. I am bringing the BMR camber plates back from USA and I'll give it another full wheel alignment. I'll also check if there's anything worn back there (shouldn't be, most stuff is new). And I'll try clocking the bushings.
I think in the rear, I'll lift the car, loosen the suspension wherever there are binding bushings, including both sides of the camber arm, push it in while letting it down, torque the bolts, bounce the suspension, and see where it lands.

 

[Mustangcol]

When you pushed on the rear wheel, did it visibly shift? Its pretty noticeable when it moves in that slot.

Yes you want to righten the bushings with the suspension compressed or they can hold some preload, however while it makes some difference in ride height it wont make a huge impact on camber.

Camber and toe cross adjustements in both the rear and front cross talk some, but your toe looks fine, so we’d still fully expect more than 2 deg neg camber in the rear.

I’d try again, something isnt adding up.

I forgot to reply to your question. Yes, it is very noticeable that it shifts when I move it in the slot. I had the mechanic on the ladder pushing the top of the tire in when the alignment tech tightened down the bolt

 

[Dana Pants]

I’m at very near -3 camber each side rear on factory adjustment parts. Maybe the adjuster is rusted frozen and needs some love.

 

[RobZ71LM7]

You should be able to get way more negative camber. Verify that the camber arm bolt to the subframe is completely inboard in the slot and doesn't move out when torqued.

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