Rear caliper retracting tool

Elp_jc

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Hey gang, will replace all pads on my 900+ mile 2019 Bullitt, and in case the new pads (I'm debating if Z23s or Z26s) are wider, I'd have to retract the rear pistons, so I'm looking for the proper tool to do that. I want the simplest possible one but with correct fit. Looked at those 3/8" 'cubes', and they don't seem to fit well, with some buyers saying they were better off with needle-nose pliers. I want input from actual Mustang owners, please, to know they'd actually fit well. And links, if possible. Thank you.

Oh, and if somebody has the torque specs needed to replace all PP1 pads, like the big middle bolt on the Brembos, and the 2 bolts on the rear calipers, I'd greatly appreciate it :). And any other 'gotcha', or tip, would be welcomed too. Thank you again.

 

OF5.0

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Hey gang, will replace all pads on my 900+ mile 2019 Bullitt, and in case the new pads (I'm debating if Z23s or Z26s) are wider, I'd have to retract the rear pistons, so I'm looking for the proper tool to do that. I want the simplest possible one but with correct fit. Looked at those 3/8" 'cubes', and they don't seem to fit well, with some buyers saying they were better off with needle-nose pliers. I want input from actual Mustang owners, please, to know they'd actually fit well. And links, if possible. Thank you.

Oh, and if somebody has the torque specs needed to replace all PP1 pads, like the big middle bolt on the Brembos, and the 2 bolts on the rear calipers, I'd greatly appreciate it :). And any other 'gotcha', or tip, would be welcomed too. Thank you again.
The 3/8”-drive cube for the rear brake piston retraction from Lisle (or equivalent) is adequate.
Brembo brake caliper pin bolt: 22 lb-ft
Rear caliper to caliper mounting bracket: 24 lb-ft
For the front pads, make sure that you fully retract the pistons, otherwise the new pads won’t fit. Make sure that you use one or two lugs finger tight on the front rotors when you insert the pads. The disc floats, so the lugs keep the rotor in proper position. You can push the pads in too far towards the rotor hat, so keep one of the tapped-out pins nearby to gauge where to stop pushing the pads.
 

Norm Peterson

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Elp_jc

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Thanks gang. Yeah, for the difference, makes no sense to buy the cube, when you can buy the better tool that will fit any caliper. And if needed, the front pistons can be retracted a little with a screwdriver wrapped in a rag, or something like that. It's very easy to retract them by twisting the caliper against the rotor, but that requires loosening the caliper bolts, which hope it's not necessary. By the way, what's the torque for the main Brembo calipers? And for the rear caliper brackets, although not needed for the pads? Thx.
 

Bluemustang

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Front caliper to spindle is 85 ft/lb
Rear caliper mount bracket is 129 ft/lb (yes you heard right)

I don't use a torque spec for the rear caliper slide pins or the front caliper bridge bolt. Just tighten by hand, especially the rear caliper slide pins. If you keep tightening you can snap the bolt (ask me how I know lol)
 
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Elp_jc

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Thanks brother. Damn; 125 ft/lbs for those bolts is crazy. Do you use any loctite on the slide pins or bridge bolt? I don't think there's a need, but rather ask.
 

Bluemustang

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It's a good idea for rear caliper mount bracket and the front caliper to spindle bolts to use Loctite, but I am not sure if it is totally necessary. Mayhe someone else can chime in on that. The factory uses loctite.

I don't see a need though for the small bolts not requiring much torque.
 

Norm Peterson

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Can't prove it, but I have a feeling that the stuff Ford puts on the threads of these fasteners is as much to prevent the intrusion of water and the subsequent corrosion between the threads. That'd be a bigger issue for those who get 50,000 miles out of a set of pads than for the track day driver who maybe gets 5 to 10 events and a couple thousand street miles per set.


Norm
 
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Elp_jc

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So maybe use anti-seize, instead of loctite???
 

Norm Peterson

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I'd use anti-seize for steel fasteners that thread into aluminum. Probably not otherwise unless it was specifically called out in the factory shop manual.

I have a feeling that low to medium strength threadlock compounds might not fare all that well with the caliper temperatures reached in track driving anyway.


Norm
 

Flyhalf

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Remember few things
1. Blu glue is reccomended by ford. I would use it anytime they say to use it.
Is 3$ and loosing a bolt of the brakes...isnnot nice.
2. In theory those bolts are single use.
3. A nice trick is : mark with a sharpie the bolt to the frame where you are attaching them so next time you know where you need to torque the bolt too and also see if thr bolt did unscrew a little.
 

 
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