Quick Xineering downshift blip module install review

[Lorne34]

Indeed. You may or may not need to do that, though. Mine is currently set to 70% throttle at 0.200 or .250 sec duration, can't remember exactly. The factory setup of 50% throttle at 0.300 sec duration was too aggressive, and small fractions of a second make a big difference.

A sidenote on this is that I set it up perfectly at home on the street using the middle RPM range, and it was also perfect at the track in high RPM range... at first. By the end of the day it could have used a little bit more aggressive setting as letting out the clutch had to drag the engine up to speed a few hundred RPM, but I just let it go. The very next day it seemed to be close to spot on again at first but was soon apparent it could have used a little bigger stab again.

The thing to remember here is that the aftermarket blippers are not a smart rev match like what would come from the factory but rather a simple, dumb blip. So you can set it up to your preferred shifting speed but also modulate your shifting speed to the amount of blip you tuned. I believe the factory options aren't blipping the throttle as much as they're actually and honestly rev matching. From what I understand, when you select a gear, the factory option will put the engine at the correct RPM and hang out there til you release the clutch.

I had mine tuned to a nice medium-quick shift, not banging gears as fast as possible. By the end of the two track days I used it on, I was downshifting as fast as possible to avoid dragging the clutch/engine speed up and still it wasn't enough, and I really should have plugged in the laptop to ramp it up a tad. I'm thinking another 0.05 sec duration would have been about right.

Thanks for this explanation. It is super helpful...
Do you feel that it is worth it in the long run considering it is not a factory setup?

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[drummerboy]

I think you can practice heel/toe on spirited drives even with the sensitive brakes as you would not have to mash the brake pedal like you would on a track. This is my primary concern with doing any sort of track day driving is how I am going to perform and process down shifts at high speeds. I am a pretty efficient manual driver, but never having been on the track, I can say that my heel toe experience is zero...

I can speak to that here as well. I'm pretty quick, but I have very little experience with heel/toe. I installed this unit before my first ever track day in this car, but I never turned it on. I should have. There were sections of track where I was trail braking in sweeping corners where a downshift is required, and every time I attempted a shift I found my brain was unable to feel the exact edge of braking, steering, grip during the shift. By center corner I was going too slow every time. So, wanting to find the perfect entry through center I started waiting to shift til I had made the apex, which lost me much corner exit speed.

After I started using the blipper (and installing other parts and tires) I gained several seconds and set some extremely fast times that would not have been possible without the blip module. I want to learn to heel toe, but not at the expense of running fast and seeing what the car and I can do. The blip takes the thing I have next to zero experience with out of the equation and does it for me. Now I feel that since I know the track and car very well, I can go out there and feel the corner and blip better.

Thing is, if you're braking in a straight line and downshifting, you could probably just work on the heel toe. That's how it was at Charlotte track attack. I was executing perfect shifts. In reality, with trail braking, I could not feel the car from entry through center at all, my brain being focused on attempting something new.

Thanks for this explanation. It is super helpful...

Do you feel that it is worth it in the long run considering it is not a factory setup?

For me - 1000% yes.

I should add one last thing about mindset, because I think this is probably the most important aspect about it: Track time is fleeting and consumables are not cheap. At this time I don't want to give up too many laps learning to do something that a sweet little gadget can do for me.

I also would love to be a purist and just heel/toe myself. However, at this time, I'm much more interested in going as fast as I can and having fun, and I can't do that without the blipper.

 

[ChipG]

I've ordered a module. If I've read and understood this thread correctly, I'll also need (for a better installation):

- 1 switch (for orange wire)
- 1 fuse tap (for orange wire after switch)
- 1 posi-tap (for brown wire)

Is that correct?

 

[drummerboy]

I've ordered a module. If I've read and understood this thread correctly, I'll also need (for a better installation):

- 1 switch (for orange wire)
- 1 fuse tap (for orange wire after switch)
- 1 posi-tap (for brown wire)

Is that correct?

Correct, 100% need a switch and a small length of wire to run it, but for final installation I used two positaps for both the brown and orange wires - you're already in that fuse panel harness for one wire anyway. I'm not sure which fuse I'd tap for 12V acc but you could also go that route.

Sidenotes on the switch:
1) I didn't look up how to wire a switch with 3 prongs (for lit LED), so I just wired a 2-pronger with no light inline with the orange wire.
2) A rocker switch will be much better than a toggle.

If someone can tell me how the heck you wire the 3 prong, please do, I'd love to swap to a lit rocker switch.

 

[ChipG]

Correct, 100% need a switch and a small length of wire to run it, but for final installation I used two positaps for both the brown and orange wires - you're already in that fuse panel harness for one wire anyway. I'm not sure which fuse I'd tap for 12V acc but you could also go that route.

Sidenotes on the switch:
1) I didn't look up how to wire a switch with 3 prongs (for lit LED), so I just wired a 2-pronger with no light inline with the orange wire.
2) A rocker switch will be much better than a toggle.

If someone can tell me how the heck you wire the 3 prong, please do, I'd love to swap to a lit rocker switch.

Thanks! @JAJ suggested F21 (in-vehicle temp and humidity sensor) as long as 5A is sufficient for that and the box.

I ordered 3-prong rocker with LED, should just be power (orange from fuse), ground (from any ground), and load (switched - orange to box) I believe. Are you just missing the ground wire?

 

[drummerboy]

F21 (in-vehicle temp and humidity sensor) is exactly the circuit that Xineering is having you tap per their instructions, at least that is what it is on the 2019 (sometimes they move things around), and that is the very top left 5A fuse. NOTE: That is a micro3 fuse for use with two circuits (but one circuit is spare in the case of F21/F22), and I believe F21 runs from the center to right prong.

And thanks for the tip on the switch! So, if it has 3 prongs, the center just runs to ground and the other two can hook up any which way along the orange wire? All I need to do in that case is swap in a new LED switch and run a wire to a ground.

 

[ChipG]

F21 (in-vehicle temp and humidity sensor) is exactly the circuit that Xineering is having you tap per their instructions, at least that is what it is on the 2019 (sometimes they move things around), and that is the very top left 5A fuse. NOTE: That is a micro3 fuse for use with two circuits (but one circuit is spare in the case of F21/F22), and I believe F21 runs from the center to right prong.

And thanks for the tip on the switch! So, if it has 3 prongs, the center just runs to ground and the other two can hook up any which way along the orange wire? All I need to do in that case is swap in a new LED switch and run a wire to a ground.

For the switch, it does matter which wire goes where:

Power and ground power the LED, then "Load" is the signal out to the box that is switched, if I'm not mistaken. So fuse box would tie to power, load would tie to the module.

For fuse F21, does that mean this kind of fuse tap won't fit?

and I need this one instead?

 

[drummerboy]

Thanks a ton for the switch info!

And yes, that bottom one is correct (top one won't work). But I'm a bit confused by it. It seems that it must be fused off of one side, in which case you'll need to make sure it is flipped appropriately. The only other possibility is that the wire isn't protected by the fuse and is running directly to the center prong.

EDIT: Chip, why not just positap the orange in as well while you're in the harness doing the brown?

 

[ChipG]

Thanks a ton for the switch info!

And yes, that bottom one is correct (top one won't work). But I'm a bit confused by it. It seems that it must be fused off of one side, in which case you'll need to make sure it is flipped appropriately. The only other possibility is that the wire isn't protected by the fuse and is running directly to the center prong.

EDIT: Chip, why not just positap the orange in as well while you're in the harness doing the brown?

You can see where the fuse goes in the side, though it's a little hard to see in that photo. I brightened it up here. I'm not sure what that will mean for directionality with F12/F22.

I am trying to minimize posi-taps, but will have extras of those as well and will play it by ear once I'm under the dash if that's easier or this doesn't fit in the fuse box in the correct orientation.

Chip

 

[SmokinAces]

@drummerboy and everyone else who contributed part#’s and advice. Can’t thank you enough. Ordered some of the complimentary parts recommended. Getting things ready for the install. Can’t say enough how much this changes the track day dynamics for me. Missed it on my 2019 GT, have It on my motorcycle. So basically I’ve been spoiled.

 

[lunatect]

All the tech is cool, but I liked it better when you actually had to drive the car instead of a computer.

 

[Steve68Cougar]

I'll add a "thanks to everyone that contributed" to this thread. I had a ride in a GT350 around Hallett that had an AutoBlip and it worked very nicely. After doing a little research, I decided on the Xineering unit. So far I'm happy with it, but will need to put more time on it for final judgement. Everything was quite easy except getting the clutch wiring snapped in. That took 90% of the install time for me. I took the panel off with the sunglasses compartment and put my switch in there. It's on top and as close to the front as I could get it. It was a tight fit. Even if you don't use that location for a switch, it makes it easier to get to the clutch wires when you have that panel out of the way. I twisted the switch and it popped out like it did for several others. That made it easy to get the wires connected, but a PITA to get it back in place. What finally made it work was to get the clutch pedal pushed essentially down to the floor by wedging a stick between the carpet edge and the back of the brake pedal. I could then maneuver quite well and had it popped back in place within a few seconds. I fought it a bunch before I tried that.

Yes, the car will take less skill to drive because I won't be heel and toeing it like the professionals. I, however, make it to the track only a time or two a year, and I don't really want to worry about whether I'm going to screw up a heel and toe and blow through a corner. I can always work my way into it as I get more practice and confidence. I'm sure I'll run part of the time without it, but will definitely be less aggressive when not using it (at least for now).

 

[Lorne34]

I'll add a "thanks to everyone that contributed" to this thread. I had a ride in a GT350 around Hallett that had an AutoBlip and it worked very nicely. After doing a little research, I decided on the Xineering unit. So far I'm happy with it, but will need to put more time on it for final judgement. Everything was quite easy except getting the clutch wiring snapped in. That took 90% of the install time for me. I took the panel off with the sunglasses compartment and put my switch in there. It's on top and as close to the front as I could get it. It was a tight fit. Even if you don't use that location for a switch, it makes it easier to get to the clutch wires when you have that panel out of the way. I twisted the switch and it popped out like it did for several others. That made it easy to get the wires connected, but a PITA to get it back in place. What finally made it work was to get the clutch pedal pushed essentially down to the floor by wedging a stick between the carpet edge and the back of the brake pedal. I could then maneuver quite well and had it popped back in place within a few seconds. I fought it a bunch before I tried that.

Yes, the car will take less skill to drive because I won't be heel and toeing it like the professionals. I, however, make it to the track only a time or two a year, and I don't really want to worry about whether I'm going to screw up a heel and toe and blow through a corner. I can always work my way into it as I get more practice and confidence. I'm sure I'll run part of the time without it, but will definitely be less aggressive when not using it (at least for now).

Thanks for your assessment and comments. i purchased the kit last week and have been hesitant in installing as I am headed to TN next week and don't want to be stuck with any complications of not getting everything connected.
Is it my understanding that twisting the clutch harness allows the whole mount module to release and then you need to press the tab to actually remove the wiring?
I watched Jeff ashton's install video and it looked like he was able to reach up and disconnect/connect the switch directly into the switch harness...
I was also told by Xengineering that with my 2019 model (and 2020) they switched the brake wiring, so they are having me tap the brake wire directly at the blue harness above the brake pedal vs at the BCM..
I also agree with your reasoning for having the unit for track use... I am in the same situation with planning on occasional track use and wanting to eliminate this factor.

 

[SmokinAces]

I was also told by Xengineering that with my 2019 model (and 2020) they switched the brake wiring, so they are having me tap the brake wire directly at the blue harness above the brake pedal vs at the BCM..

thnx for the update, was not aware of the change in installation depending on model year.

 

[Lorne34]

thnx for the update, was not aware of the change in installation depending on model year.

it's mentioned in the GT350 instructions supplement that is included. Will from Xineering stated that the 2020 for sure changed, but only some of the 2019's. He could not guarantee that the brake control connector on the BCM would be in the same location. The most direct route was to tap into the wire that is directly connected to the blue harness on the brake pedal linkage. It's actually shown (the blue brake module) in the You Tube install video at about the 3 minute mark. The You Tube video does not mention the change though.. still going to the BCM.
I think this is a good unit, but I am a bit disappointed in the lack of clear instructions without having to call them. They are very responsive though. I wish they would include a switch in the package as well. Who is their right mind is going to hook this up without an on/off switch.

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