Project "Starter Pack" - Turbo Build Thread

[Stroked89coupe]

Wanted to document some of the things that are being done with the car and figured this would be a good place to lump everything into.

This is my first mustang ever owned besides a foxbody I sold about two years ago. Everything I've ever built revolves around reliability and quality parts and the same will remain here on this build.

Shooting for high 8's. Be sure to follow along and keep up with the progress.

Ended up picking up a new white 2018 GT. Car is a 301a PP1 package car.

Out with the old and in with the new....

View attachment 318010

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[Stroked89coupe]

Got a few things installed recently. Went with a kooks 3'' catback. Full BMR suspension and bushings and a set of GForce axles. Also topped everything off with a QA1 Carbon fiber driveshaft. QA1 at the moment offered the lightest and the only sfi rated driveshaft for the 18's.

The entire cradle and diff was removed to install spherical and solid bushings. Nvh is definetly increased by a good amount but I knew that would be the case. The diff bushings were a pain in the but just like all similar bushings like these. Decided to keep the factory springs but will be going with a Viking B358am shock for the back.

Got everything torqued to spec and ready to go after a few days. The rear has literally every option from BMR suspension and bushing wise.

 

[Stroked89coupe]

Decided to ditch the brembos and the standard rear calipers for a set of baer's. I will be running a 15" wheel in the back and a 17"x4.5" in the front. These were needed in order to clear the new wheels. This setup from Baer is specifically designed to do that. It will not clear a race wheel in the rear though. Such as a weld alumastar or magnum due to not enough pad height manifactured into the rim. Can run a 15" in the back but is still has to be a street style with at least a medium pad height to clear the calipers.

I also ditched the metric factory wheel studs and installed some traditional 1/2-20 3"ARP's to I can pair these awesone wheels im getting with some machined aluminum lug nuts. Saving weight is a huge consideration with this build. I will be saving every lb I can. This brake setup shaved off at least 60 lbs from factory.

 

[Stroked89coupe]

Did a little wiring today on the tripple pump from fore innovations. Went with the tripple 267's. Started by removing the seat and the factory pump and sending unit. Made sure everything was wired professionally and then buttoned everything back up. Added some weatherpack connectors to make removal at a later date a breeze if needed. Im real anal about my wiring and it shows. If you look at the completed install you can't even tell there is anything aftermarket installed once you put the pump cover back on.

 

[Stroked89coupe]

Went ahead and ordered this intake from plazmaman. This thing is a work of art. The plan is to get a new motor and sleeve it eventually. When that happend I will be able to utilize this intakes upper rpm and the power it makes there better. It has a lot of vaccume posts so I made a new custome line to go to the brake booster and also plumbed in my hobbs switch that will be ran to a relay that turns on my 2 additional fuel pumps when the boost comes on and hits 3ps. This is so one fuel pump can run constantly and the other two just when needed. That way fuel temp stays at a minimum. Did I say this intake is bad ass???

 

[Stroked89coupe]

Always something... I ordered some ID1300's and by stock form the are shorter than a factory mustang injector. So they include these aluminum caps that slide over the o-ring on the bottom of the injector to get the correct height and replicate a factory injector. Well the oring the include on the outside of the cap would not fit and allow me to put the injector into the intake manifold. It was just Slightly off. Instead of trying to source an oring which was becoming hard to do even after talking to injector dynamics I just the cap off and shortened the fuel rail stands. To match up with the shorter injector I now had .

 

[mmacoyote]

following! this looks serious!

 

[Stroked89coupe]

following! this looks serious!

Thanks man!

 

[Stroked89coupe]

Decided to redo my heater hoses. The stock ones were not doing it for me. Used some nylon braid hose and pex crimp rings to redo them. Also mounted a relay panel from leash to run the water pump. Mounted the thermostat back along with the new electric water pump.

 

[1320INC]

Very nice build! I see you subscribe to the " do it once and do it right" theory. Congrats on the new car, with all that spherical suspension, it will still ride like a Fox body.

 

[Stroked89coupe]

Very nice build! I see you subscribe to the " do it once and do it right" theory. Congrats on the new car, with all that spherical suspension, it will still ride like a Fox body.

Lmao. I got a kick out of that. Yeah the bushings in the back made an unreal difference as far as nvh goes to say the least....

 

[Stroked89coupe]

Got the vikings shocks in for the back. Hopefully these will net some good gains.

 

[Stroked89coupe]

Man I tell ya. Getting the factory feed line out with the tank still in place was a pain in the ass. Finially was able to squeeze it out. I ended up running all of the lines pretty much in the factory spots. As with everything else....looks pretty factory. All of the lines were ptfe which is the best route to go in my opinion.

 

[Notagain]

Yessssssss following this build!!.

Psst. Nitrous outlet makes a hidden direct port setup that goes inside that Art piece called an intake manifold!

 

[Stroked89coupe]

Yessssssss following this build!!.

Psst. Nitrous outlet makes a hidden direct port setup that goes inside that Art piece called an intake manifold!

Yeah man I acyually saw that the other day lol. If I were going with the bottle on the car that setup would definetly be my first choice.

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