Procharger Stage 2 Install

[ATTFighter]

I had the paxton kit on my 14 GT, which is very similar to the vortech kit, minus the head unit. The reasons I went with the Procharger kit over the vortech or paxton was due to the cutting of the fan shroud that I had to do with the 14(believe it’s still the same way with 15 and vortech/paxton). I didn't want to cut anything, or remove the fans for install. I wanted the easiest avenue this time around... HA! Also, I wanted the noise of the procharger. If I am spending 6k for a SC kit, I want some damn noise roaring from the engine bay. There is no shortage of noise with the Procharger kit. Couldn't really hear anything with Paxton, and I believe the vortech is the same way.

I had no issues with the in the 14. Ran a best of 11.2 at 128, manual car. Could have gone faster but only took it to track a couple of times.

Yea that's why I'm leaning towards procharger. I just don't want to get the D-1SC hinder it with stage 1..but like I said I'm staying in 550-650 range for long time.

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[Phils15GT]

If I could do it all over again, I would do stage 1 kit with D1, upgraded intercooler and no race bypass valve. I would go with the standard one. Race bypass was a PITA to get to fit, especially when trying to put rubber elbow on the inlet.

I think you would be fine with stage 1 kit and the numbers you are trying to hit. You could probably even do stage 1 with P1 and stage 1 intercooler, if you are only trying to hit 550-650.

 

[ATTFighter]

If I could do it all over again, I would do stage 1 kit with D1, upgraded intercooler and no race bypass valve. I would go with the standard one. Race bypass was a PITA to get to fit, especially when trying to put rubber elbow on the inlet.

I think you would be fine with stage 1 kit and the numbers you are trying to hit. You could probably even do stage 1 with P1 and stage 1 intercooler, if you are only trying to hit 550-650.

For fueling did you go with the vortech max flow bap or the jms plug and play fuel pump booster

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[Phils15GT]

I went with JMS. All plug and play, no cutting.

 

[ProChargerTECH]

No. Still haven't figured it out. It still throws the P2006 and P2007 Code during normal cruising, and apparently the IMRC is not opening all the way on WOT. I have gone over the car 10 times and traced all the lines, even had a buddy come over and take a look. The instructions are pretty straight forward - went step by step. No luck, still doing the same thing. Tuner said that this tune has been used in similar setups with no issues. Believes it is vacuum leak. I don't see where it would be coming from as its a simple setup. Tuner also said that the IMRC can be turned off in the tune but is a PITA to do with the 15s.

Car idles and drives normal, aside from surging while normal cruising. Seems like it happens right at the threshold between when the car goes into boost during normal driving. I have heard this is normal with race bypass...

Also, the car is pullied for 12psi. Procharger supplied the 5.00 pulley and I see about 10.7 psi most of the time. I am not too sure how accurate the digital boost gauge is but it shoots to 16psi right before 7200 RPMs. I called Procharger and they said the car shouldn't be making anywhere near that boost with that pulley, so might be the gauge.

Not impressed with how the car feels under WOT either. My pullied 04 cobra felt stronger. Hoping this is due to the IMRC issue.

If this continues, I am considering taking the car to Evolution as they are only about 4 hours away. Maybe they can figure it out.

If the IMRC's are not in the correct position during cruise it will cause surging/bucking

Something is obviously incorrect, since that code is coming up.
(Pretty sure you are the first person to post about that issue)

Hopefully your tuner can get you ironed out.
However those issues should be pretty easy fixes.

 

[Process]

I was able to log all of the mapped points (all 34 of them) and the throttle angle stuff yesterday in the latest HPTuners build. Waiting to hear back if it was sufficient to iron out the bucking.

I'm beginning to wonder if it's worth to just lock the IMRC's open and just disable the mapped points where the IMRC is closed. I'm thinking this is how the Boss 302 intake is tuned on the 15.

 

[Phils15GT]

Everything is hooked up exactly as they say in instructions. Pictures followed 100%. The only line that comes off IMRC system (that gets messed with) gets removed from "Y" in back of manifold, and then is removed from under manifold. It is then plumbed from the Y behind the manifold (imrc) and connected to the new "T" that connects into the vent lines off valve covers, and goes to air filter pipe.. Then you cut the line off the vacuum tree and attach new boost manifold.


Tuner said that IMRC can be deleted in tune but is a PITA. The check engine light only comes on during normal cruising. My car bucks as well.

During one pull, the car was supposed to be able to rev until 7200, but the car cut itself off at 6800. Check engine light started to flash. I pulled off highway to read the codes and it cleared itself. No code.

 

[5.0 Steve]

What about a 11-14 intake with no IMRC swapped in?

 

[Process]

What about a 11-14 intake with no IMRC swapped in?

Doesn't flow as well as the 15.

 

[5.0 Steve]

I just hope his tuner finally acknowledges that it's in the tuning and not mechanical.

 

[Phils15GT]

I just want to square away whatever it is that is jacked up.

 

[ProChargerTECH]

Tuner said that IMRC can be deleted in tune but is a PITA. The check engine light only comes on during normal cruising. My car bucks as well.

During one pull, the car was supposed to be able to rev until 7200, but the car cut itself off at 6800. Check engine light started to flash. I pulled off highway to read the codes and it cleared itself. No code.

Trust me, bucking is related to IMRC's.
If they are open during cruise, but the stock values for cam timing, timing are stock, it will buck. (They should be closed during cruise)

If you cut off at 6,800 you hit the speed limiter, that hasn't been raised.
(or one of the other revlimiters hasn't been moved)

Sounds like your install is correct,
Just need to iron out your small tune details with your tuner.

 

[z06psi]

Isn't Lund supplying the basic tune with the small adjustments for your pulley size?

 

[Phils15GT]

Isn't Lund supplying the basic tune with the small adjustments for your pulley size?

Lund is providing the remote tune. Said he hasn't had any issues tuning other 15s with similar setup. :shrug:

Would the race valve have anything to do with the IMRC at all?

 

[Process]

Trust me, bucking is related to IMRC's.
If they are open during cruise, but the stock values for cam timing, timing are stock, it will buck. (They should be closed during cruise)

If you cut off at 6,800 you hit the speed limiter, that hasn't been raised.
(or one of the other revlimiters hasn't been moved)

Sounds like your install is correct,
Just need to iron out your small tune details with your tuner.

I don't think the IMRC's help the cause, but it's also an issue with the actual and predictive throttle angles, since it's always been guess and check with the coyote platform on copperhead and tricor. As the previous gen coyote has this issue as well, most tuner's have just "figured out the angles" though.

The way I understand it is, you get information from the driver demand torque source, which registers to a map point, which also has an inverse. The demand requests X amount of torque at the engine, and an inverse value which is an airflow amount (which is a combo of many things, imrc and cam timing are a few of them), which also then maps to a predictive throttle angle. If the actual angle isn't matching, you'll get a bucking.

This angle is derived from an IMRC opening value, throttle angle value. Adding boost to the mix that isn't tuned for essentially closes the throttle as it is exceeding it's mapped point airflow amount, so it eventually says "ok, time to close the throttle" even though theres more air coming.

This was a super elementary way of explaining it.

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