Preserving Settings With Battery Disconnected

[19gtaz]

I swap batteries twice a year on two different cars, no issues. The radio reverts to am and I found on the GT that the Easy exit turned off, that slides the seat back when you shut the car off. One car is automatic and one is manual. The automatic shifts exactly the same when I get back in it after 5 or 6 months.

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[luca1290]

Plus, this is likely the last ICE car I'll buy and I'm not driving it a lot, usually highway miles only (only 20K miles since Dec. 2018).

That's why after 2 pages of post still we have not concluded how a properly change a lead acid battery.

May the Lithium Chemistry be with you.

 

[Bullitt0819]

People change batteries alllll the time. They get it done at AutoZone by pimple faced adolescents, while on their lunch-break. It's not going to hurt anything, and other than maybe needing to reset some radio presets, nothing bad is going to happen.

There is no need to let the car sit for 8 hours, or do anything. Stop fussing like a teenage girl, there's nothing to worry about.

With your current Bullit Mustang? You previously changed the battery and all the nannies went TU? And the car had to "to sit in the sun for a few hours" to fix it? And you think there was a TSB that got fixed???

Yes, having to scroll to a drive mode is nothing but a nuisance.

I don't see how this is germane to the topic.

" Stop fussing like a teenage girl, "


OK, I got your number. You gonna call me a cuck, now?


"You previously changed the battery and all the nannies went TU?"


I see reading comprehension isn't your strong suit: here, I'll help you out:

"I had the issue where all the nannies would go TU, usually after the car had to sit in the sun for a few hours (there was a TSB; I think/hope it got fixed)"

No mention of a battery swap (I know, keeping up is tough) ps. There's a thread on this topic on here somewhere; haven't seen it mentioned in a while).

This means Ford thought it serious enough to issue a TSB ('Technical Service Bulletin'). They don't like to do this since it costs them money (dealers, presumably, are OK with it since they can bill Ford). I have to jump onto a busy highway pretty much right out of my driveway and the degraded performance sometimes caught me off guard. I also had to acknowledge a half-dozen alerts, chiming way. I didn't drop almost $50K on a new car to have to live with bugs. I get it; you're gonna trash your car and get a new one--the new Mustangs are kinda tempting--but I'm going to keep mine in good nick and hang onto it.


"I don't see how this is germane to the topic."

I'll explain it to you (using small words). This car is in more-or-less pristine (oops, big word, sorry) condition--plus a few tasteful mods--at 20K miles. I'd like to keep it that way. I know from experience how sensitive solid state electronics are; in fact, I had reservations about going to an 'all glass cockpit' before I bought it. Some electronic failures are not easily, if ever, fixed. We're almost all guaranteed to have 'dead pixels' on our screens, just like computer displays, at some point. Battery swaps on my old British sports cars are a no-brainer; on a new car loaded with sensitive electronics not necessarily so (I can take apart and reassemble a Smiths speedometer blindfolded)

I'll fill you in on something: Not every internet conversation sticks exactly on the topic it started on. I wasn't sure if backing-up my car's power source during a battery swap was a good idea; I thought, 'there's a lot of knowledgeable and helpful people on the Mustang forum (except for one, apparently), I'll ask them.' Yes, I searched for related topics before starting the thread. Some of the helpful types mentioned the BMS and, since I didn't know about that particular piece of technology I learned something (I like learning new stuff--sue me).

JFC, some people just have to throw shit. I suppose they got nothing better to do. A simple "I've swapped lots of batteries in late-model Mustangs and never had a problem" would have been sufficient (and helpful, but that'snot what you're about, is it?).

 

[KingKona]

" Stop fussing like a teenage girl, "


OK, I got your number. You gonna call me a cuck, now?


"You previously changed the battery and all the nannies went TU?"


I see reading comprehension isn't your strong suit: here, I'll help you out:

"I had the issue where all the nannies would go TU, usually after the car had to sit in the sun for a few hours (there was a TSB; I think/hope it got fixed)"

No mention of a battery swap (I know, keeping up is tough) ps. There's a thread on this topic on here somewhere; haven't seen it mentioned in a while).

This means Ford thought it serious enough to issue a TSB ('Technical Service Bulletin'). They don't like to do this since it costs them money (dealers, presumably, are OK with it since they can bill Ford). I have to jump onto a busy highway pretty much right out of my driveway and the degraded performance sometimes caught me off guard. I also had to acknowledge a half-dozen alerts, chiming way. I didn't drop almost $50K on a new car to have to live with bugs. I get it; you're gonna trash your car and get a new one--the new Mustangs are kinda tempting--but I'm going to keep mine in good nick and hang onto it.


"I don't see how this is germane to the topic."

I'll explain it to you (using small words). This car is in more-or-less pristine (oops, big word, sorry) condition--plus a few tasteful mods--at 20K miles. I'd like to keep it that way. I know from experience how sensitive solid state electronics are; in fact, I had reservations about going to an 'all glass cockpit' before I bought it. Some electronic failures are not easily, if ever, fixed. We're almost all guaranteed to have 'dead pixels' on our screens, just like computer displays, at some point. Battery swaps on my old British sports cars are a no-brainer; on a new car loaded with sensitive electronics not necessarily so (I can take apart and disassemble a Smiths speedometer blindfolded)

I'll fill you in on something: Not every internet conversation sticks exactly on the topic it started on. I wasn't sure if backing-up my car's power source during a battery swap was a good idea; I thought, 'there's a lot of knowledgeable and helpful people on the Mustang forum (except for one, apparently), I'll ask them.' Yes, I searched for related topics before starting the thread. Some of the helpful types mentioned the BMS and, since I didn't know about that particular piece of technology I learned something (I like learning new stuff--sue me).

JFC, some people just have to throw shit. I suppose they got nothing better to do. A simple "I've swapped lots of batteries in late-model Mustangs and never had a problem" would have been sufficient (and helpful, but that'snot what you're about, is it?).

You should absolutely switch to an EV for your next car. I see nothing but positives in it for you.

 

[Bullitt0819]

I swap batteries twice a year on two different cars, no issues. The radio reverts to am and I found on the GT that the Easy exit turned off, that slides the seat back when you shut the car off. One car is automatic and one is manual. The automatic shifts exactly the same when I get back in it after 5 or 6 months.

Good info, thanks (especially about the A10).

 

[Bullitt0819]

You should absolutely switch to an EV for your next car. I see nothing but positives in it for you.

Thanks for the advice, but I'll stick with the 'Stang, the old Lincoln, my '96 Ranger, two old British sports cars, two circa 1950s Ford tractors, Honda quad, JD Gator, zero-turn mower, edger, rototiller, 3 chainsaws, gas rodent-killer and compactor, all of which I maintain myself--well, to the extent possible with the 'Stang--for now. I have gone all-battery-electric with power tools; simply so much easier than firing up one of the compressors and dragging a hose around.

Actually not a bad piece of advice from you. I'm waiting to see if Ford can get its shit together with the Lightning; I need something for around-town and short-haul towing, and I could get rid of the Lincoln and Ranger (smog checks get to be a PITA). I'm concerned with power loss--yeah, 'teenage girl' stuff--but with solar panels, a big battery and the Lightning's backup power capability I could last for a few days at least. I'm on a well, no power means no water.

But, of course, none of this is germane to this conversation.

 

[Deleted member 69311]

You won't lose any settings other than the radio will default to AM. Radio stations etc should all be preserved.

Wrong. I unplugged my battery and my mileage reset back to 0.

 

[Bullitt0819]

Wrong. I unplugged my battery and my mileage reset back to 0.

Whoa! That SHOULD NOT happen (we're talking odometer, right, not trip meter?).

 

[Egparson202]

You should absolutely switch to an EV for your next car. I see nothing but positives in it for you.

Off topic: Any relation to Ragmopinkona?

 

[308 Cal. Bullitt]

I believe I read (wrong? or right?) if the battery thats been in the car for say, yrs..? eventually becomes dead over a long slow period of use, & not recoverable & needs replacement.

Then when installing a brand new, well charged replacement...
the 8hrs you spoke to, OP, comes in into play.. Or so I was led to believe.
As now, the BMS must re-learn that the car no longer has a low (& now dead) battery installed any longer.

I recall there being a relearning (of battery strength) situation by the BMS on the swap, or did we both read & interpret something incorrectly?

Thats how we understood the ~8hr thing, you spoke to above.

Wondeing myself now, if ww previously opting out of - (aka-turning off) our once activated FordPass (aka-spyware) on our '19 & newer cars... Gets turned bk 'on' by default, from a battery swap ??

I'm not a huge fan of Fordpass. I've been calling several names for my beliefs, including Anti Government, by mods here.

 

[xcm77]

Why do you want to change the battery? Did you run any tests that indicated it needs changing?

 

[Bullitt0819]

I believe I read (wrong? or right?) if the battery thats been in the car for say, yrs..?
...
I'm not a huge fan of Fordpass. I've been calling several names for my beliefs, including Anti Government, by mods here.

The mention of the 8-hour wait came from one of the links in an early reply, which referred to F-150s. Supposedly, the 8-hour wait is in lieu of resetting the BMS (which a dealer would do to get the car out of their shop). KingKong is convinced resetting the BMS, by either means, is for pussies only; I've inadvertently fried enough electronics to be a bit more concerned, but I'm not losing any sleep over it. I'm swapping the battery because the OEM one is leaking and corroding the (-) terminal.

As for FordPass, I have the app on my phone but I've heard the '19 Bullits didn't have modems--supposedly a production screw-up, but I'm glad about it--so none of the remote stuff, including data snarfing and possible theft is available (no info on my car is available in FP). When I bought the car I participated in Ford's 'Big Data' effort, which involved letting Ford track my usage for a few months but nothing came of it (got vilified here, though). I figured if I'm gonna bitch anonymously on the internet I ought to voice my opinions formally if I get a chance.

 

[speedydave]

Last time I changed a battery, I left the car running while changing it. No loss of power at any time during the change.

 

[Bullitt0819]

Why do you want to change the battery? Did you run any tests that indicated it needs changing?

It's leaking at the negative terminal and causing corrosion. I had a leak on my Ranger that ate through the battery pan; don't want that happening to my 'Stang. But, no indications from the ECU or elsewhere.

 

[Bullitt0819]

Last time I changed a battery, I left the car running while changing it. No loss of power at any time during the change.

I wouldn't be comfortable with that, your experience notwithstanding. If you've seen the output from an alternator on an O-scope it's not a smooth DC signal, it's a lumpy, truncated sine wave produced by the diodes in the alternator (6 in most alternators). The battery functions like the capacitor in an analog power supply, smoothing the signal and absorbing any voltage spikes. A spike isn't likely, but not unheard-of; my Lincoln has a well-known problem where a failing CoP would put a spike on the primary voltage line from the ECU and effectively knock the ECU 'unconscious,' resulting in instant engine shut-down.

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