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Prep before ceramic coating?

Adotcaruso86

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I recently bought a used bullitt with 700 miles on it. Despite the condition of the car it looks as if the dealer polished it.
Id like to give it a fresh start but where do I begin?

iron remover then clay then polish then plan was to use cquartz slic. I’ve used car pros ceramic in the past and was happy

what type of polish for a light paint correction? I washed it over the weekend and I don’t see the need for a multi stage paint correction so is there something I can use for minor prep before ceramic?
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larr12

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Part 1


Part 2


Part 3

 

MAGS1

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I use the Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Pro 1 and Done polishing compound. It’s a good one step polish IMO. I’m a big fan of Buff and Shine’s 50/50 Urofiber pads too. Not overly aggressive but still corrects and finishes nicely.
 

MAGS1

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3D One is another good polish for a one step correction.
 

Labradog

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Sonax Perfect Finish and a Rupes Yellow Pad is a go-to combo for one-steps. Over Christmas I'll be trying Rupe's Uno Pure to freshen up before applying new Gtechniq Exo V4 over 2 year old CSL + V4.
 

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DFB5.0

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I recently bought a used bullitt with 700 miles on it. Despite the condition of the car it looks as if the dealer polished it.
Id like to give it a fresh start but where do I begin?

iron remover then clay then polish then plan was to use cquartz slic. I’ve used car pros ceramic in the past and was happy

what type of polish for a light paint correction? I washed it over the weekend and I don’t see the need for a multi stage paint correction so is there something I can use for minor prep before ceramic?
Take a look at this thread I wrote earlier this year, basically the same thing you will need to do, as in a decon, polish and coating. Now, in that case I used a wax, but the process leading up to that is the same.

Holiday Project - Mustang Polishing and Waxing | 2015+ S550 Mustang Forum (GT, EcoBoost, GT350, GT500, Bullitt, Mach 1) - Mustang6G.com

In very basic terms, this is the process -

1/Wash the car as normal. I use a higher pH soap, but that isn't totally necessary.

2/While still wet, spray the whole car with an iron remover, leave to dwell, rinse off.

3/Use a clay bar/pad/towel/block. I prefer to use a Quick Detailer for lubricant.

4/Dry the car without a drying aid.

5/Polish. I will echo the recommendation for Sonax Perfect Finish with a Rupes yellow pad.

6.Wipe the whole car down with an IPA spray, I prefer Carpro Eraser, but it's always best to use the same prep-spray as the coating brand.

7.Apply a wax/sealant/ceramic coating.

With Sonax Perfect Finish, that is strong enough on a yellow finishing pad to clean things up without cutting so hard that you need to follow up with a milder compound and pad. Also note that not all "yellow" pads are the same, as in each pad manufacturer assigns colors differently. For example, the Rupes Yellow is equivalent to a blue pad in the system I use. If you choose to step outside of the Rupes yellow, just be sure to read carefully what the pad is capable of.

In terms of coatings, Carpro are leaders, but don't rule out the new EVO line from Gyeon.
 

DR_Mach1Yote

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I recently bought a used bullitt with 700 miles on it. Despite the condition of the car it looks as if the dealer polished it.
Id like to give it a fresh start but where do I begin?

iron remover then clay then polish then plan was to use cquartz slic. I’ve used car pros ceramic in the past and was happy

what type of polish for a light paint correction? I washed it over the weekend and I don’t see the need for a multi stage paint correction so is there something I can use for minor prep before ceramic?

At my shop we do things a little different and thats why we are more expensive. We do a complete chemical strip (iron, fallout,etc.) and wash first, we claybar and wash again, we wet sand 4000 or 5000, than compound cut and polish, we than put the car in temp control enviroment, static clean the car than coat. sound like alot but if done correctly and organized moves rather quickly for what it is we do.
 

aham23

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i did my M1 as it came off the transport after 3 weeks in a rail yard and 2 outside at the dealer.

it took all day. i should have split it into 2 days....lol.

pre rinse, foam then two bucket wash using Adams strip wash, clay, rinse, dry, polish, spray coat....oh my back.
 

MAGS1

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i did my M1 as it came off the transport after 3 weeks in a rail yard and 2 outside at the dealer.

it took all day. i should have split it into 2 days....lol.

pre rinse, foam then two bucket wash using Adams strip wash, clay, rinse, dry, polish, spray coat....oh my back.
It’s a labor of love LOL.
 

ajsfirehawk

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Excellent videos. Thanks for sharing
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