PP1 logic-see what you think.

[Mustang5ohMan]

They have a 10.5in front wheel and 11in rear.

yeah so different, is the style different? Not sure I’ve seen a pp2 car.

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[Schwerin]

yeah so different, is the style different? Not sure I’ve seen a pp2 car.

Images of one in post #3 of this thread.

 

[rebellovw]

PP1 all the way - I absolutely love mine.

 

[krishelnino]

I'd say the PP1 was a good value at $4k, with the price increase to $5200 for MY20 it might not be worth it depending on how you view it. I skipped the PP1, and still regret not getting that package from the factory. However, i've upgraded to most of the PP1 content except the radiator. Here is what it cost me including labor

Strut tower brace, firewall brace and lower K-member $290 plus labor 100
PP lower belly pan $125
PP Brembo brakes Bullitt Red $900 did them myself
Torsen diff 3.73 gears - $600 plus labor 400
FP Track handling kit (way better than PP1 suspension) - $1170 plus labor 300
PP1 wing $350
I have much better wheels - wider and lighter SVE SP2 - $2200

I ended up spending more than the PP1 package but i have way better suspension and wheels plus i got the brakes prepainted red which were little more expensive. I don't care for the dash guages but i'm still missing the larger radiator and ofcourse unique ABS, EPAS and chassis tuning. If i would've done it again, i'd have bought a PP2 which comes with MagneRide, especially for MY20 i'd say skip the PP1 and go straight to the PP2.

 

[Mustang5ohMan]

When I shopped my mustang must of them had PP1 and I wouldn’t buy a Mustang w/o PP1. PP2 was not really necessary however I did come across a PP1 with Magnaride and took it for a rest drive however couldn’t tell a different where it was it for me to have that option. I didn’t get the exact car I wanted because I got blue stitching which looks cool and is different but I would’ve probably Opt’d for red.

 

[ice445]

PP1 is generally worth it, especially for the rear diff on the newer cars. I kind of wish I had gotten it, but at the same time manual PP1 cars that weren't Premiums were non existent near me, so I elected to just go the aftermarket route.

 

[Arknsawchuck]

I would always opt for the PP1. my question is I know the tires are different in PP2 but are the wheels the same? May upgrade to the wider tiers when I wear these out.

No the wheels are not the same. The PP2 has wheels that you can only get on that package. The are 10.5" wide in front and 11" in back.

 

[shogun32]

But I'm not so hardcore that I'm going to go with the PP2, which I read is just miserable on the street. I'm old, I like some comfort.

the PP2 isn't remotely harsh. The choice of tire and width is the problem for 'street' use. Buy the PP2 and a street-friendly rim+tire set (figure $1500). If you're going to buy a non-MR PP1 then you'll definitely want to replace the rear shocks for about $300.

You'll want to do the IRS and diff fixes regardless of trim.

 

[shogun32]

Finding a PP1 with MR and no other options and not a premium trim is nearly impossible. All I could find was a leftover 2019 that's been sitting for literally over a year, and they still think it's gold, price-wise.

2020 PP1 vs 2019 Bullitt

 

[givemeadollar]

I opted for no PP1 because I knew most of the things that came on the PP1 would be getting replaced. So I think its personal preference, do you want the adventure of building a base car up to what you want or do you want to have it all done so you can hop in and go?

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