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Pinch Weld Jack Pad

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Bullittproof

Bullittproof

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Thanks, skinnyb, for sharing that the sealant will ‘squish’ (at least fair amounts), I thought perhaps that it solidified like RTV or hardened like PL Adhesive…
…I think you all have convinced me to go with the rails, as soon as I hear back on the size of low profile vs regular.
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Bullittproof

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Thanks, skinnyb, for sharing that the sealant will ‘squish’ (at least fair amounts), I thought perhaps that it solidified like RTV or hardened like PL Adhesive…
…I think you all have convinced me to go with the rails, as soon as I hear back on the size of low profile vs regular.
I second the Steeda jacking rails. I used mine yesterday to jack mine up to change the oil. I've got a standard cup on my floor jack with a rubber pad in it and it works perfectly. I bolted mine on and didn't mess with the seam sealer, just cranked the bolts down and it squished it into place just fine. The rails are thick and strong. And to answer, the standard rails do stick about 1/8 inch below the pinch weld. Not enough to notice but just enough to get a bite with the jack and not mess the weld up.
I will be going with the standard rails and will place a rubber pad on the jack cup…thanks again to everybody who provided this valuable information, I started-out looking at a pinch weld pad and am ending-up with the superior rails. This is what I like about this site, the helpful participants!
 

skinnyb

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I will be going with the standard rails and will place a rubber pad on the jack cup…thanks again to everybody who provided this valuable information, I started-out looking at a pinch weld pad and am ending-up with the superior rails. This is what I like about this site, the helpful participants!
Good call. A little more expensive but we'll worth it for the protection it offers. And the sealant squish is minimal but as long as the bolts reach and tighten down properly it works. I didn't have a tremendous amount, if yours has a large amount a little trimming might be advised.
 

MAGS1

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Mags1, you answered one of my next questions, you mention removing the four total (two on each side) from the factory, and also using loctite, it occurred to me that split lock washers can be added as well (unless there is a reason not to)…
…Offshoregames, you have the low profile rails, do they still fully ‘cover’ the side profile of the pinch weld (in other words, are the low profile rails of an equal ‘height’ as the pinch weld? or are they of shorter height than the pinch weld?? and conversely do the standard rails extend below the pinch welds?)
Thanks also KeyLime.
I don’t see why you couldn’t use the washers. FYI the factory bolts already have blue loctite on them, I added just a small drop to each. I have the Steeda full length rails (not low profile) and you’d have to be laying on the ground looking for them to actually see them. And even then they look like they belong there.
 

WCRookie99

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I will be going with the standard rails and will place a rubber pad on the jack cup…thanks again to everybody who provided this valuable information, I started-out looking at a pinch weld pad and am ending-up with the superior rails. This is what I like about this site, the helpful participants!
(2) Hockey Pucks = $4 bucks. Unless you're doing a NASCAR pit-stop no reason at all for jack rails. Place the stacked Pucks on the jack and jack the car anywhere on the existing rail on the other innerside of the pinch rail. I normally just do it in the middle of the car door as it will jack the entire side easy. Why?
 
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luc

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With over 10 jacking points on a mustang the rails, like many products, are more of solution in search of a problem than anything else
Obviously i don’t expect people that bought them to agree
As for the 10 jacking points:
2 pinch weld locations on both side
Rear lower control arms under spring pocket
Under the center of the rear differential
Front subframe
Etc
 

WCRookie99

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I bought 10 Hockey pucks with all the money saved from not purchasing the Steeda product and use them for buffer between jack points and car (photo below is a Porsche) but you get the idea.
Screen Shot 2022-12-11 at 10.07.43 AM.webp
 

WCRookie99

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Screen Shot 2022-12-11 at 10.23.40 AM.webp
 

jamus34

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Add on question to this, is it safe or I guess recommended to jack up one side fully then the other?

I always get get wary jacking vehicles as 1) I don’t want to drop them on me and 2) damage them. When it was an old beater I didn’t really care if I caused some damage but big difference between that and a $60k performance vehicle
 

TEAsGrabber

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I couldn't for the life of me find a hockey puck in this town and we have a professional Hockey Team!! I went searching thru the garage and house for something to put on my jack pad....found a 10 pack of sealed electrical tape my son bought a couple years ago to make sparkler bombs......perfect size and worked great!
 

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I know this threat has a little age on it, but jamus34 brought up I good point I was wondering about. Are you jacking up the side high enough to put a jack stand under it, lowering it and then repeating on the other side? Little weary of having it leaning so much.
 
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I decided to install full size jacking rails, then using a flat rubber pad on a floor jack cup jacking the one side, slipping under the rails two locking jack stands and then rotating the two tire/wheel assemblies. This provides three SUPPORT (<edit) points and enough ground clearance to perform the swap.
Then simply repeat on the opposite side of the vehicle.
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