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MyRapidredGR

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Thanks for all the information guys.

time for some coolers and I suppose

one more question…I’m assuming I can’t get a decent track alignment out of the stock setup ?
I’d like to make some camber adjustments
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Silver Bullitt

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Exhaust wrap and diff fluid change get me 15-20 min sessions without any issues. I am farther north than you and typically don’t track in temps above mid 80’s though. If you want to get much more aggressive with camber, I’d recommend getting some plates.
 

NeverSatisfied

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Exhaust wrap and diff fluid change get me 15-20 min sessions without any issues. I am farther north than you and typically don’t track in temps above mid 80’s though. If you want to get much more aggressive with camber, I’d recommend getting some plates.
A lot of this comes down to the driver. Go try it out and see what works for you.

The difference in heat generated running the car at 8/10 vs 9-9.5/10 is exponential.

PP2 will happily lap short shifting and running 80%.

Ratchet that up to 90% shifting at 7k rpm and it’s a deep rabbit hole to a solution.
 
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tosha

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No idea, I typically only do 15-20 min
Thwn how do you know it doesn't run into heat issues? 🙂 I'm not talking about limp mode, I back off and start a cooldown lap before I see 235F CHT. That might be considered conservative by some, but that's my temp limit.
I’m assuming I can’t get a decent track alignment out of the stock setup ?
Front camber is not adjustable without aftermarket camber bolts or plates.
 

Biggsy

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*Knocks on wood* I’ve never had problems with temps. I just change my diff fluid frequently (every 3-4 events) and all is well. I think factors that aren’t talked about with engine temps are coolant mix and shift point. If you are running 50/50 then your engine will run hotter than one running straight water (with water wetter or similar). Also shifting at redline every time will cause heat. I personally notice the difference with shift points especially.

Orrrr I could just be a slow driver lol
 

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Biggsy

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Also gimmick or not I do have the Intake manifold heat shield. Maybe that is playing a part also.
 

ShadesOfBloo

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I hate to be the one to say this, but have you tried using search button or just go few pages of topics back. There's 49 page thread exactly about this, good starting point: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/track-time-limited-due-to-high-cht.166499/

Cooling-wise, PP2 doesn't have any additional cooling compared to a regular GT. And for the gauge, aftermarket is the best option. Mustangs don't have physical oil temp sensor at all. You can use CHT as a reference until you have proper gauge installed.
It took me a minute to remember that CHT meant "Cylinder Head Temperature" in this context. 😅

In my job it means "Collection, Holding and Transfer" and refers to the sewage pipes on a ship.
We do what we do so sailors can poo! 🚢 💩
 

bnightstar

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*Knocks on wood* I’ve never had problems with temps. I just change my diff fluid frequently (every 3-4 events) and all is well. I think factors that aren’t talked about with engine temps are coolant mix and shift point. If you are running 50/50 then your engine will run hotter than one running straight water (with water wetter or similar). Also shifting at redline every time will cause heat. I personally notice the difference with shift points especially.

Orrrr I could just be a slow driver lol
I paid for the whole rpm range though ;). But yeah if you are chasing lap times and not just having fun the difference in temps is a lot though I also agree brakes temps are bigger issue than oil temps my car safely does 242F CHT but so did a A10 Mach 1 I drove for 1 lap. So even with Mach 1 auxiliary coolers if car is pushed by a capable driver it will reach high temps in just 1 lap.
 

NightmareMoon

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Thanks for all the information guys.

time for some coolers and I suppose

one more question…I’m assuming I can’t get a decent track alignment out of the stock setup ?
I’d like to make some camber adjustments
You need to add camber plates, and you may want to clearance the strut tower holes if you want more than about 3 degrees. Vorshlag sells a jig for a hole saw to do this. Steeda camber plates are very functional and will get you as much as you can get with your strut tower openings. If you want to pay more and get better plates. Vorshlag cost a bit, but are the nicer ones.
 

Biggus Dickus

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I back off and start a cooldown lap before I see 235F CHT. That might be considered conservative by some, but that's my temp limit.
Conservative or not, it's smart. That's too hot. The only way to pull down bulk temp is cooling the water. The bonus is you'll make more power as well as being more reliable.
 

NeverSatisfied

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Conservative or not, it's smart. That's too hot. The only way to pull down bulk temp is cooling the water. The bonus is you'll make more power as well as being more reliable.
After about 1 minute of time over 230 CHT my 2021 base GT starts reducing power, my 2019 PP2 was right around the same spot. There's no warning but I can tell it's either pulling timing or limiting max throttle %.

With my 2019 PP2 with diff cooler as the only cooling mod, I was able to get ~8-10 minutes of track time flogging before the ECM would say uncle.
 

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I paid for the whole rpm range though ;).
True. But I "dawdle" on the straights because what's the point? I'll take it to high rpm on corner exit for 1 or 2 shifts and then mellow the heck out. The skill part is over by then. If it's a series of esses or something then 5k-6 rpm is plenty.

A bright orange Miata chased me in Tysons this morning. Car was festooned with track stickers. @Biggsy do we have any local autocross left? He said after FedEx closed he goes to NC or PA.
 

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For HPDE sure, but @bnightstar and several others do time attack so lifting on the straights is not an option.
Some times even in the corners we try to not lift ...
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