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Torinate
Well-Known Member
I find this interesting and I’m hoping you find a fix.
For what it’s worth, I watched my temps like a hawk today. On a tour with my wife on Route 6 in PA through the mountains etc. temp high 80s (86-91). Stock t-stat. Edelbrock s/c. Going up high mountains for LONG stretches at a really decent pace - where the blower would actually go into boost at times I saw an indicated cylinder head temp max of 216 twice but nGauge coolant temp never went above 196. It typically ran 192-194 but did hit 196 twice. Once at the top on level ground the cylinder head temp dropped to the typical 197-202 and coolant temp to 186 or so. Now, if I drop down a gear or two to raise the revs, I don’t see any change in my temps and in fact they actually will drop to below the regular temps I quoted. I assume it’s because the water pump is spinning faster??
So, what driving conditions are you seeing the temps rise so much? No blower, correct? Something is off for sure though. I don’t recall, is this the stock / factory water pump or a replacement? Remember when there ware pumps that actually spun the wrong way? Something completely stupid though, did you check the belt routing and make sure there was no slip? How does the pump spin free hand? I might even try to clamp the MMR with a protected vise grip and see if it changes anything with the temps. It might be able to rule out the mod so to speak as being the culprit.
Good luck!
For what it’s worth, I watched my temps like a hawk today. On a tour with my wife on Route 6 in PA through the mountains etc. temp high 80s (86-91). Stock t-stat. Edelbrock s/c. Going up high mountains for LONG stretches at a really decent pace - where the blower would actually go into boost at times I saw an indicated cylinder head temp max of 216 twice but nGauge coolant temp never went above 196. It typically ran 192-194 but did hit 196 twice. Once at the top on level ground the cylinder head temp dropped to the typical 197-202 and coolant temp to 186 or so. Now, if I drop down a gear or two to raise the revs, I don’t see any change in my temps and in fact they actually will drop to below the regular temps I quoted. I assume it’s because the water pump is spinning faster??
So, what driving conditions are you seeing the temps rise so much? No blower, correct? Something is off for sure though. I don’t recall, is this the stock / factory water pump or a replacement? Remember when there ware pumps that actually spun the wrong way? Something completely stupid though, did you check the belt routing and make sure there was no slip? How does the pump spin free hand? I might even try to clamp the MMR with a protected vise grip and see if it changes anything with the temps. It might be able to rule out the mod so to speak as being the culprit.
Good luck!
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tdstuart
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #109
Its a fbo e85 cam build, N/A so no blower.
Its the same setup as before my motor rebuild which ran fine. So far I found a few minor leaks and replaced the leaking hoses. I tested the thermostat and thats fine. Fans are on.
Driving conditions are just straight level road. Cruising going a constant 80mph on the freeway will make it heat up past 230 cht. Doing acceleration pulls doesn't heat it up super fast but does put heat in the system. I can do 160+mph at around 230 cht. But it will also hit that temp if I just do 80 long enough.
The pump spins fine by hand. The mmr mod has metal braided lines that I can't even get at. Not sure if I can even clamp it enough to block flow.
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Torinate
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Ah ok. So clamping is no go. I thought the pics showed rubber lines.
Something is amiss for sure. I’m sure you’ve checked, but could something be making a mess of the airflow through the rad itself? Idle temps are fine, but cooling an idling engine is much different than an engine under load. Certainly make more heat under load, but does e85 not run cooler than regular fuel?
Something is amiss for sure. I’m sure you’ve checked, but could something be making a mess of the airflow through the rad itself? Idle temps are fine, but cooling an idling engine is much different than an engine under load. Certainly make more heat under load, but does e85 not run cooler than regular fuel?
tosha
Well-Known Member
That means that your tuner adjusted the fans kick-in temps to be in line with 170F tstat. my fans start temps are stock, and yes, they go at full blast at around 217F. If AC is on, CHT stays pretty stable at around 204F at long idles.
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tdstuart
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- Thread starter
- #113
Idling Results (was already warm when starting) (in Fahrenheit):
A/C on full blast after ~8 min: 198CHT / 192ECT
A/C on full blast after ~8 more min: 199CHT / 194ECT
A/C off for ~8 min: 194CHT / 189ECT
So with the A/C on it was sitting about 199CHT and when I turned it off it dropped right back down to 194CHT. So no cooling issues at idle just while moving.
A/C on full blast after ~8 min: 198CHT / 192ECT
A/C on full blast after ~8 more min: 199CHT / 194ECT
A/C off for ~8 min: 194CHT / 189ECT
So with the A/C on it was sitting about 199CHT and when I turned it off it dropped right back down to 194CHT. So no cooling issues at idle just while moving.
tosha
Well-Known Member
Sorry, but that doesn't make any sense. When AC is turned on, it runs the fans at low speed continiously and that actually helps with cooldown when standing or stop and go traffic.
It seems that your fans are constantly on and even tiny bit of engine load (from the AC) is triggering temps to go up. What happens with temps if you keep constant revs at above 1k while standing? Is it going above 194?
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- #116
Gt350 pump vs standard gt. The 350 pump also has ceramic bearings that are smoother than a mother effer. They also appear to be individually QC checked as there was a handwritten tag with date and initials.
I had no idea this existed. Great idea and something ill do on my TT car. Thanks for the tip!
What are ambient temps outside?
I go between AZ and SoCal and my twin turbo car with a 4.5" intercooler in front of the radiator is able to maintain decent ECT and CHTs even in 100* weather.
I'll say, driving home in this weather with the AC on, my CHT's will touch 218-220 sometimes, but Ive never seen nGuage ECT's over 208-209 which is WELL within acceptable Summer weather limits IMO.
In the winter/spring/fall, my temps really never go over 200.
Seems obvious, but you aren't beating the shit out of this car with 110+ temps outside are you?
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tdstuart
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #117
Temps are regularly hitting 115+ but even at night when temps are 85 it will still hit 225+ cht.
And no not beating on it super hard haha. But I watch temps when I do pulls and I don't let it get too hot. Temps seem to be doing what I am use to even doing hard acceleration but the overheating while driving normally is the issue.
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- #118
Another silly idea
You didn't leave a rag in the radiator inlet our outlet during your motor rebuild, did you?
ive done something stupid like that ... no bueno
You didn't leave a rag in the radiator inlet our outlet during your motor rebuild, did you?
ive done something stupid like that ... no bueno
tosha
Well-Known Member
Please share the result, it will be very interesting what will happen. On my car, temps actually drop in this scenario, as pump starts pushing more coolant through the system.
