other things to also install when installing camber plates?

[Michael_vroomvroom]

Agree, my data is from GT350 but with Cup2 you'll need a bit more negative camber. However, and this is the big BUT, I would NOT go for a "happy compromise." It's not hard to adjust the toe particularly once the tie rod ends are marked (I used some really good wheel weight tape, just a thin strip on both sides the upright side and the tie rod side). My suggestion.
Plan for your track set up with the amount of neg camber you need, adjust toe for just slightly toe OUT, mark tie rod end there. Then move the camber to street setting (super easy with your camber plates), adjust to factory toe setting and mark the tie rod ends and you're done.
Just remember, and if you look at the front upright it will make sense, but adding a bunch of negative camber creates big TOE-OUT so you need to set toe back IN and when you set camber in, i.e. less negative you need to ADD TOE-OUT.

Thank you, that sounds good. Will re-read this once I've managed to install them.

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[kz]

Ah, yes, that was what the intent was I belive. A happy medium without having to realign between street and track, but if realigning with these camber plates does not take too much time, I'm guessing I don't have to compromise.

Well - I don't know what you're looking for with alignment - I have exactly identical (to a tenth of a degree) camber / toe on front and rear. If you start moving camber plates, you will be in the ballpark of the alignment but it won't be accurate. Also not that increasing camber will toe suspension out in the front and the opposite. Same in the rear - camber and toe are interconnected due to suspension geometry.

 

[Norm Peterson]

I have had this recommended from a friendly guy at TMO, who I think got the recommendation from an engineering friend of his at Ford:

Front alignment
2.1 degrees of negative camber
1/16 of an inch toe

Rear alignment
1.25 degrees of negative camber
1/8 of an inch toe, minimum

Sounds like that may be too little according to some here, but thinking I'll try that first.

One of the reasons I went with the Vorshlag plates, apart from everyone seemingly happy with the quality, is I read they make it fairly easy and quick to adjust between two settings yourself (e..g, track and daily driving), so maybe it's something I can even do at the track when I arrive there.

Sort-of agree, -2-ish° front camber is do-able as long as you're running on true street tires and have a bit more roll stiffness than OE. 1/8" rear toe (in) is OK as a total, but might be a bit much on a per-side basis.

It may be possible to find a pair of camber settings that doesn't run the toe to far 'out' in the track camber setting or too far in for the street setting. You may end up with a little less negative camber than you could use on track (or a bit more negative camber than you might otherwise choose for your street driving), but you wouldn't have to play around with the toe at all.


Norm

 

[Norm Peterson]

Well - I don't know what you're looking for with alignment - I have exactly identical (to a tenth of a degree) camber / toe on front and rear. If you start moving camber plates, you will be in the ballpark of the alignment but it won't be accurate. Also not that increasing camber will toe suspension out in the front and the opposite. Same in the rear - camber and toe are interconnected due to suspension geometry.

I'm pretty sure that Vorshlag's plates include engraved scales to aid in setting/resetting cambers to established values. Beyond that, you could make up a set of "gauge blocks" to solidly establish the strut shaft positioning. Even if all you do is re-measure cambers with a digital angle finder you can get down to ±0.1°.


Norm

 

[Grintch]

I have magneride on my car and I'm thinking hard about also ordering the magneride kit from FP so I can install it at the same time (even though it's not cheap at all, and at my novice level I don't think I should spend that much money. I just don't want to have to dismantle the suspension again if I want to install the set in a year or two), but worried about it lowering the car so much (20 mm I read), so not sure about that at all.
I checked under front fender where I usually park in the city, and I can barely get one finger in between the fender and the curb, so I will have to start parking in a much less convenient way if I lower my car like that, and perhaps try to get one of those third-party hacks for adding a front camera to the sync screen too.

Just don't drive all the way forward and put your tire against the curb. Easy to do. Remember the typical parking space is designed to be big enough to fit a F150. So plenty of space to allow you to cheat back a little.

 

[Houston Kid]

Do have a pic of them installed? From the top of the strut tower? How is your caster set?

Ah, yes, that was what the intent was I belive. A happy medium without having to realign between street and track, but if realigning with these camber plates does not take too much time, I'm guessing I don't have to compromise.

 

[Michael_vroomvroom]

Do have a pic of them installed? From the top of the strut tower? How is your caster set?

No sorry, I'm not sure yet when I'm going to be installing them. Have to try and find some free weekend.

 

[Houston Kid]

No sorry, I'm not sure yet when I'm going to be installing them. Have to try and find some free weekend.

Gotcha. I plan on doing mine next week. According to Vorshlag, we can get -2.8 camber without having to widen the hole on the top of the strut tower. You cannot adjust caster once they are in without dropping them back down so ideally it would be good to know where to set the caster before install. I’ve watched several videos and searched for info on the caster setting but have had zero luck thus far.
From their site this is the closest I can find but it’s not in the car but it is installed on the strut.

 

[Michael_vroomvroom]

Gotcha. I plan on doing mine next week. According to Vorshlag, we can get -2.8 camber without having to widen the hole on the top of the strut tower. You cannot adjust caster once they are in without dropping them back down so ideally it would be good to know where to set the caster before install. I’ve watched several videos and searched for info on the caster setting but have had zero luck thus far.
From their site this is the closest I can find but it’s not in the car but it is installed on the strut.

Hi, I also plan to watch and rewatch several videos, plus print out the instructions on paper before I start. Hope you're a good sport and make some useful notes/photos to add to the existing videos/instructions if you find anything missing.

Also not sure yet whether I will buy the average low quality spring compressor available from amazon or similar, and hope it's good enough to prevent the spring from hitting me in the old bean as so many others have done before, or try to find a garage to compress the springs while I screw on the bolts. Prefer to not buy a good quality kit as will be expensive no doubt and I may never use it again. :-/

Guess I'll be wearing my helmet doing it.

 

[Houston Kid]

Hi, I also plan to watch and rewatch several videos, plus print out the instructions on paper before I start. Hope you're a good sport and make some useful notes/photos to add to the existing videos/instructions if you find anything missing.

Also not sure yet whether I will buy the average low quality spring compressor available from amazon or similar, and hope it's good enough to prevent the spring from hitting me in the old bean as so many others have done before, or try to find a garage to compress the springs while I screw on the bolts. Prefer to not buy a good quality kit as will be expensive no doubt and I may never use it again. :-/

Guess I'll be wearing my helmet doing it.

I’ve done several lift kits etc and have a lot of experience using spring compression tools. I go to Autozone and do the free loaner tool program. Just take your time and compress each side a little at a time. The tool I use is two screw driven parts. One goes on each side of the spring. Sometimes the challenge is getting enough compression while clearing the strut top with the wrench or the other end depending on which side you can get more clearance.

I’ve not used this exact one before that Advanced Auto has. Looks a little more stable than the Autozone ones.
Second pic is the Autozone one. Knock on wood I’ve never had one fail or cause injury but I know it can happen.
The third pic seems like an easier tool to use but I’ve not used that style.

 

[Michael_vroomvroom]

I’ve done several lift kits etc and have a lot of experience using spring compression tools. I go to Autozone and do the free loaner tool program. Just take your time and compress each side a little at a time. The tool I use is two screw driven parts. One goes on each side of the spring. Sometimes the challenge is getting enough compression while clearing the strut top with the wrench or the other end depending on which side you can get more clearance.

I’ve not used this exact one before that Advanced Auto has. Looks a little more stable than the Autozone ones.
Second pic is the Autozone one. Knock on wood I’ve never had one fail or cause injury but I know it can happen.
The third pic seems like an easier tool to use but I’ve not used that style.

Thank you, the style of the first two photos is what seems most easy/cheapest available, and it's good to hear of your experience. I've seen the one in the third photo also, but seems rare compared to the first style. Also I've seen this one, though it's a step up in price (around double is the lowest I've seen):

No free loaner programs here that I know of unfortunately.

 

[kz]

The one in red box looks reasonable.

I've used all three from the previous post - first one looks sketchiest but looked the best - I've done Mustang and F150 springs with it, used impact to compress and only slight issue is that the the long threaded rod is being visibly bent once you compress the springs. Not great for something that's supposed to be in tension.

2nd one is same thing but safer, however doesn't fit over thicker diameter coil springs.

Third one in cheap version is absolute junk and useless. OTC's version of it works well but it's expensive.

 

[Houston Kid]

Thank you, the style of the first two photos is what seems most easy/cheapest available, and it's good to hear of your experience. I've seen the one in the third photo also, but seems rare compared to the first style. Also I've seen this one, though it's a step up in price (around double is the lowest I've seen):

No free loaner programs here that I know of unfortunately.

Only compressing one side seems very sketchy to me. I would not use that one but I have never used one like that and it very well maybe the safest one. It looks like the the spring could launch itself out the opposite side as the spring bows from only one side being compressed.

As far as caster goes, take a look here.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/vorshlag-camber-plates.158805/#post-3235651

 

[Houston Kid]

The one in red box looks reasonable.

I've used all three from the previous post - first one looks sketchiest but looked the best - I've done Mustang and F150 springs with it, used impact to compress and only slight issue is that the the long threaded rod is being visibly bent once you compress the springs. Not great for something that's supposed to be in tension.

2nd one is same thing but safer, however doesn't fit over thicker diameter coil springs.

Third one in cheap version is absolute junk and useless. OTC's version of it works well but it's expensive.

I have seen the threaded rod start to bend some and it is very unnerving to see it. It makes me pick up the pace a little and get things switched over and release the tension for sure.

 

[Michael_vroomvroom]

Only compressing one side seems very sketchy to me. I would not use that one but I have never used one like that and it very well maybe the safest one. It looks like the the spring could launch itself out the opposite side as the spring bows from only one side being compressed.

Hehe, I was thinking the same thing, but the reviews are all positive, so thinking it must appear better in real-life usage. I'm guessing the intent is for the plates to be big enough to cover more than half the spring circumference, so that the spring will compress equally on both sides and does not bend like that, but not sure how it will match the diameter of Mustang springs.

As far as caster goes, take a look here.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/vorshlag-camber-plates.158805/#post-3235651

Thank you, I don't have as much experience as you I think, so I'll be studying this.

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