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Ordered Steeda Bumpsteer Kit

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Bluemustang

Bluemustang

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Steeda just called me, kit is shipping out today.
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The Steeda kit does not require seals and boots! We use a very high quality Teflon lined rod end which requires no lube! We have sold 10 of thousands of kits since 2003 with no issues!
That may be true, but why not just add a seals-it boot to help keep shit out of the bearing. It's cheap and doesn't hurt anything.
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Keeps out dirt, moisture, etc. for a few bucks why wouldn't you?!?!?!?
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We are fans of the Seals It boots and have been recommending them for years.

The people who will see the most benefit are those who put mileage on their cars in harsh environments. The boots helps keep contamination at bay, which is the #1 killer of bearings, regardless of the lining material.
 

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Voodooo

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We are fans of the Seals It boots and have been recommending them for years.

The people who will see the most benefit are those who put mileage on their cars in harsh environments. The boots helps keep contamination at bay, which is the #1 killer of bearings, regardless of the lining material.
I don't daily my car. But for a few measly dollars why wouldn't you use them? It's cheap insurance and I've spent more money on worse things before.
 

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We are fans of the Seals It boots and have been recommending them for years.

The people who will see the most benefit are those who put mileage on their cars in harsh environments. The boots helps keep contamination at bay, which is the #1 killer of bearings, regardless of the lining material.
Again, we have not had any issues even in harsh environments !

We guarantee our bump steer kits for life.
 

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Again, we have not had any issues even in harsh environments !

We guarantee our bump steer kits for life.
I get that you had great success with the rod ends. I get you don't need the boots. That's also true that not everyone needs bump steer kit, chassis braces, new wheels, blowers, etc. but people buy all of that anyhow.

Look at it this way, when your car is new the paint looks great. A few miles later the paint gets a chip and you wish you put paint protection film on. Same with seals it boots and seals. They are cheap.
 
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I'm surprised that no one has mentioned a bumpsteer kit to me when I lowered my car. The more I drive the car the more I think it is necessary. I would had Rev Auto install it for me when they put on the other parts.

I've seen other people report bumpsteer issues on a stock car and I imagine it only gets worse with lowering. The car handles well but doesn't feel right at times because it doesn't track well.

If I can ever get it installed properly I expect a big difference
 

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I'm surprised that no one has mentioned a bumpsteer kit to me when I lowered my car. The more I drive the car the more I think it is necessary. I would had Rev Auto install it for me when they put on the other parts.

I've seen other people report bumpsteer issues on a stock car and I imagine it only gets worse with lowering. The car handles well but doesn't feel right at times because it doesn't track well.

If I can ever get it installed properly I expect a big difference
I'm not sure where you are in Maryland but if you're anywhere near Frederick, I highly recommend Adrenaline Automotive. They've done the bumpsteer kits for my last 2 Mustangs. They aren't cheap but very good. Andy (owner) teaches road racing and provides pit services or something like that. They do all sorts of performance work. The Ford Dealer in Frederick recommended him to me and I've been going there for years. If you can't find his info, I'll PM it to you.
 

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Although it is not the proper and best permanent way to do it, I have done some quick bumpsteer jobs to get it close before actually setting it the "proper" way. due to the distance from the laser to the sheet on the wall, it is actually pretty close if you can get your static, compressed and extended spots all in a somewhat tight group.

A laser, race plates, and some marks on the wall can get you close and better than where you are for the time being until you can get it done the legitimate way.
I don't understand how you can run it through articulation with the spring in.
 

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I don't understand how you can run it through articulation with the spring in.
Sit on the front end for down, jack it up for up. :cheers::lol:
 

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Sit on the front end for down, jack it up for up. :cheers::lol:
Ok, I did the hard way and took the spring out.

I put the car at ride height took the springs out and then moved it up and down using the bump steer tool.
.
 
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I'm not sure where you are in Maryland but if you're anywhere near Frederick, I highly recommend Adrenaline Automotive. They've done the bumpsteer kits for my last 2 Mustangs. They aren't cheap but very good. Andy (owner) teaches road racing and provides pit services or something like that. They do all sorts of performance work. The Ford Dealer in Frederick recommended him to me and I've been going there for years. If you can't find his info, I'll PM it to you.
I'm not far from Frederick actually. I live in Gaithersburg and grew up around here so I've actually been to Frederick many times.
 

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As others have stated, there's much more to this than simply adding shims. In fact, you'll likely make things worse by "eye balling" it. Further, without checking your current bump steer you don't know if you actually need a bump steer kit - you may not although you probably do.

And to be clear, bump steer is not your steering wheel moving when you hit bumps per se. Rather, it's toe change as the result of the tie rod and LCA traveling different arcs as the suspension articulates. This toe change causes the car to not keep its line. The key is to minimize this toe change in both the bump and droop travel ranges closest to your static ride height. It will likely not be possible to ever achieve "perfect" (read: zero toe change) all the way through the entire travel so you want the smallest overall average change.

The job is actually quite simple and very rewarding to DIY. It only takes a simple dial indicator with magnetic base and some time.
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